My second experience with my tac one

[Ebbed]

[KC]

Bolt/stick not enough return force.

Is the red spring old or cut?

Did you try the next larger carrier using the same carrier oring?

[Watcher]

If the lvl 10 is breaking balls you go to the next strongest spring. The gold is the weakest, red is the missle, and the silver is the strongest.

I use a silver one and it works amazingly.



If the bolt is sticking forward, go a carrier size up. You want to use the biggest carrier possible without leaking, or one down from that.

2 shims is usually fine.

[maniacmechanic]

What made you " think " you broke a ball ? was there paint in the breech , on the end of the bolt , or just in the barrel , i've had many instances of balls hitting each other in the barrel & " thinking " i chopped , upon teardown I found everything clean

[DamianTC]

what is the max velocity at the field your playing at? The field I play is 280fps and it seems to be very difficult to get the red spring to recock reliably at that velocity.. Considering if the max is 280, then your probably going to want your average velocity at around 270-275

I might be a bit off, but I believe the level 10 resources on this site say the minimum velocitys for the springs are 250 for the smallest, 270 for the red, and 290 for the biggest.

Even though the red will work at 270, I feel to get the best performance, you have to have your velocity set well above that... I have only had any luck with it at fields with a 300 max.

Being that my main field that I play is 280, I use the smallest spring and I never chopped a ball.

Actually the only time I can remember chopping a ball is playing on a field thats max is 300 and I was using the smallest spring that day. That being said, I feel you have the greatest chance of chopping when you use a spring that has the biggest difference in minimum velocity and the actual velocity you are running

[DamianTC]

Here is that info from this site:

Main spring tuning If you need to shoot 250 fps for indoor you need to go back to the original main spring.

Fine tuning
For most people the setup outlined above will make every paintball day a great experience. For those looking to get maximum anti chop with fragile tourney paint we offer the following suggestions. The O-ring friction can be used to additionally slow the bolt down. By going to the next smaller carrier you add an additional layer of protection at the expense of risking bolt stick. You must keep your marker oiled daily to keep it working reliably. The long mainspring can be trimmed to further fine tune the performance. The best performance comes when the marker just starts firing at 270 fps and works reliably at 290 fps.

So basically if your field limits the velocity at around 280fps, Your not going to be able to get your gun to fire reliably using the red or biggest spring because you wont be able to set your marker to 290fps. If this is your case, you need to use your smallest spring

[chinstrap]

What made you " think " you broke a ball ? was there paint in the breech , on the end of the bolt , or just in the barrel , i've had many instances of balls hitting each other in the barrel & " thinking " i chopped , upon teardown I found everything clean

Me too. I've chuffed mid-rope and the chuffed ball usually gets torn up in the barrel by the rest of the balls behind it.

I haven't had this problem since I started making sure I have fairly fresh batteries in my loader.

[Ebbed]

[frans42000]

Sometimes even the best systems can not prevent a broken ball.

Check this video out, it might explain a few things for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXM6MpEsalA&feature=channel_page

It convinced me that a high torque loader causes more ball "chops" than I previously ever considered.

No amount of anti-chop eyes or level 10 soft force bolt will prevent a bolt nicking the next ball that is being pushed too far into the breach by the loader.

[Wanta B Sniper]

Actually, take a look at your LvL 10, notice that the nose is a tiny bit rounded. Combine that with the bolts velocity for the first third/quarter of its travel of 4 +/- FPS and you have something that has a similar effect to the Cure bolt - feel free to correct me.

I will add a bit about your spring problem later unless I cannot find anything.

[athomas]

Your correct. The rounding does help.

Ebbed, if your gun is firing and the bolt is getting stuck forward, then you are experiencing bolt stick. Changing springs can exploit an existing condition that has been masked by a setting that allowed a greater range of operation. Even though you got your gun back to shooting properly, you should fine tune your setup to get rid of the bolt stick or it will crop up sometime when you least expect it.