RT on/off with a classic valve ?

[fishmishin]

Alright just wanted to get some opinions. I put a RT on/off in my classic valve, and installed a air america raptor rex reg, and it already had a lvlx. It RT's pretty good like it is with my high pressure CP tank, I don't know the output of the tank is. but it gets along pretty good. When I first tried shooting paint through it the first shot would work until the something would stick and it would start leaking. Took the bolt, spring, powertube tip, and carrier out cleaned them, oiled them up, and put it back together. Test fired it and it seems to be doing fine now. I didn't shoot but around 10-15 balls through it though since it is so late. Here is what I am wondering, I have read that the classic vale won't recharge quick enough to prevent shootdown, but this seems to be doing really well so far, could the AA raptor rex reg really be helping enough to prevent shootdown?

Also do I run the risk of tearing anything up using the RT on/off in the calssic valve? I don't want to have to try to find a replacement bolt for my lvlx, so far it doesn't look like it has caused any damage.

For a classic valve it is pretty cool, I just don't want to tear anything up !!

[xero28]

Nothing wrong with running the RT on/off in a classic valve. Though, the only thing it will really do is make the trigger pull a bit lighter. Because of the design of the classic valve, you will not get any RT effect. There shouldn't be any problem with the valve recharging. Classics can run around 15-18 cps without any shootdown. Good luck actually pulling the trigger that fast though. There isn't any risk of tearing anything up in the valve using the RT on/off. Many people (including me) have done it without any issues.

[fishmishin]

This valve is RT'ing though, and if I had to guess I would say around the 15-18 bps. That is why I was worrying about anything being destroyed in the long run.

[fishmishin]

Oh and it may help to know that when it would stick and leak, before I oiled everything, if I turned the air off, and then turned it back on it would reset itself and would shoot again, but only stick again.

[xero28]

This valve is RT'ing though, and if I had to guess I would say around the 15-18 bps. That is why I was worrying about anything being destroyed in the long run.

That is strange. Are you sure it is not going full auto? Now, I'm no airsmith, but from what I understand it is impossible to get an RT effect out of a classic valve. The valves are designed completely different. If it were possible we wouldn't be paying an extra $140 for RT valves. Who knows, it may just be one of those freak things with your valve? If in fact your gun is RTing, then I would say there may be other issues that could indeed present problems in the future. Again, the classic valves can pull around 15-18 balls/sec, so I don't think there should be any issues with damaging the valve.

Check to see what length the on/off pin is. It may be that it is very short and not closing completely (or just barely closing), thus you are getting what feels like an RT. I don't know if you have or have used other RT's in the past and know what they feel like, but, pull the trigger VERY lightly until it just fires. If you keep the same amount of pressure on the trigger and the trigger pushes back on your finger and resests, then wow, you are RTing. If with the same pressure the bolt just continues to fire, not actucally pushing back on your finger, then it may be going full auto.

I hope that helps.

[fishmishin]

I had a classic on/off o-ring in it still, so I guess it was just going full auto. It was pushing back on my finger though giving me the impression that it was actually RT'ing.

[BigEvil]

You need a long on/off pin to use the rt assembly in the classic. I run them in my pump mags. Much better trigger pull. Try a .760 or .750 length pin.

[BiNumber3]

hmm, ive yet to get any rt on/off to get my classics to go full auto, but i have gotten a classic on/off with a flipped pin to do it, maybe there's more to our classic valves than we thought:P

[Mechanic79]

is your on/off completely stock or mod'd like this POST 20:

http://www.pblegion.com/showthread.php?t=818

Make sure your grip frame screws are on the tight side of snug and chrono the gun.
Are you using a quad oring or regular oring where the on/off pin terminates?
Do you have any shims in the on/off?

[fishmishin]

There weren't any shims in the RT on/off, and it was a stock RT on/off. All I did was change out the inner o-ring to fix it. I was using a o-ring for a classic on/off in it at first, but then changed it out to the RT o-ring. It would go pretty quick but it wouldn't shoot paint all that great. Every now and then something would stick and it would start leaking. It is a shame that it would keep sticking because it shot great with no shootdown or anything. It was putting out some really tight groupings around 50' from my target. It was pretty nasty when it worked, it would just keep hanging up and leaking. I am gonna keep messing around with it and see if I can prevent it from sticking, if I get it figured out I will let you guys know. Would be nice to get it working, because it would save me a lot of money not having to buy a X or a RT valve. Right now I'd be really happy to be able to afford a RT valve, but it just isn't the case right now.