Some valves RT better than others?

[fishmishin]

Okay from what I been told, some valves RT better than others. Is this correct? I have a X, and I'm pushing 1000psi to it, with a RT on/off. I am just not getting the RT off of it like my last X I had, which I wish I had never sold because it would stroll along really well with my CP HP pre-set. Is there anything that I could do to make the new valve RT better? There has to be something, right? I guess my main thing is I don't understand why one valve will RT so much better than the next one, so if someone could explain that it would probably help out some.

[dark blade]

if you take the on/off pin and grind the skinny side down you can get some more rt effect.

Be careful though, don't grind it too much or it wont work no more.

But, i ground down my emag pin and it worked wonders :) do some searching on here to find some examples of what lengths people are using, i personally am not sure because i ground down an emag pin which already starts at .712 (i think) or maybe its .725... not sure

[Ruler_Mark]

Its all about the orings and tolerances.

I had this xvalve that was sluggish however had really good consistency. I took it apart and the orings were all swelled. I swapped them all out and the valve rt'd like crazy. There is another part the springs, i the valve was used for a very long time and very often these can be worn out.

[Ando]

Its all about the orings and tolerances.

I had this xvalve that was sluggish however had really good consistency. I took it apart and the orings were all swelled. I swapped them all out and the valve rt'd like crazy. There is another part the springs, i the valve was used for a very long time and very often these can be worn out.

Are you talking about the springs in the regulator part of the valve? The ones that go inside of each other?

[fishmishin]

Well unfortunately I don't have a X rebuild kit right now, so I am gonna check all of the orings and see what they look like, and if needed I will get with AGD and have them send me a set this week.

[Ruler_Mark]

ando, the rear most spring wears out the least, the most is the bolt return spring. The one that will effect recharge and cause problems that are the hardest to diagnose is the reg pin spring on this assembly:

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=115&categoryID=23

[Wilko]

Is there a difference betwee the valves or could it be something else?

I have recently bought a second hand Tac-One as a back up for my normal Tac-One (they are 1010 apart in serial number). Much to my surprise the last one has a very good RT effect, where the first one never had much of an RT effect at all.

I use an Air America Armageddon regulator (on a Luxfer 1,5L 300 bar ~88ci 4500psi) turned open almost all the way, to make sure that the pressure going into the Tac-One is not the issue.

I swapped out the x-valve in both mags thinking that is what makes the difference, and I want a better RT effect in my main mag (the other is only a back up). To my surprise, the new one still doesn't do much while the old one has a good RT effect.

It's obviously not the x-valve, but something else that causes the difference. Now I'm not too eager to start grinding down pins and stuff, but I get the impression that it might be what causes the difference between the two. Am I missing something or could that be it?

[Old School 626]

No one has brought this one up but what about shimming the On/Off? Won't the effect the RT effect similarly to grinding down the O/O pin? And if I'm not mistaken, can't you use level 10 or ULT shims?

[snoopay700]

if you take the on/off pin and grind the skinny side down you can get some more rt effect.

Be careful though, don't grind it too much or it wont work no more.

But, i ground down my emag pin and it worked wonders :) do some searching on here to find some examples of what lengths people are using, i personally am not sure because i ground down an emag pin which already starts at .712 (i think) or maybe its .725... not sure

NO!!!!!!

Don't do that, just put a level 10 shim past the threads on the middle of your on/off, does the same exact thing and no mutilation, and you can make it normal just by taking out the shims.

Gah, i was beaten to it, but yeah i found this out a while back that you can use shims instead.

[gbw369]

Does that work on a classic rt valve as well?

[Ando]

No one has brought this one up but what about shimming the On/Off? Won't the effect the RT effect similarly to grinding down the O/O pin? And if I'm not mistaken, can't you use level 10 or ULT shims?

Only thing about the lvl 10 shims is they are .010 compared to the on/off .005.

I was having a "female dog" of a time trying to get my valve back into my body one time and come to find out the on/off was hitting the bottom and keeping it from going in. Then realized I was using my lvl 10 shims. Had like 5 of them in there and was gumming up the works trying to tune it.

Per the instructions, max is 6 shims. But i had actually installed 10 if you go by the shim difference.

[fishmishin]

Back to this after a short break. I took the same valve yesterday that wasn't really RT'ing well and installed it on a different rail and now it shoots like a raped ape. I'm good with that though, as long as I can afford paint that is, lol. So I guess it does come down to tolerances. I wish I had a micrometer to tell what the difference is.

[Spider-TW]

Back to this after a short break. I took the same valve yesterday that wasn't really RT'ing well and installed it on a different rail and now it shoots like a raped ape. I'm good with that though, as long as I can afford paint that is, lol. So I guess it does come down to tolerances. I wish I had a micrometer to tell what the difference is.

There are lots of ways the the tolerances can add up. Considering the difference between a stock pin and an emag pin is about 1/32 of an inch, your looking for little changes. Some of them are;

Rail thickness
Burrs on the rail (usually from the z-pin)
tool marks on the sear where the on/off pin rides
sear catch wear
field strip screw tension with warped stainless bodies

[om3n]

I have done everything possible to get my tac1 to RT and I can't get it too well at all.

I have:

-cranked my tank to 1150 psi
-tried every spring I could get on the lvl 10 bolt
-tried the RT on/off, ULT on/off, and an emag pin with quad o-ring and normal o-ring in the RT on/off

The darn thing still won't RT very well. I gave up for a while, but I may try to get it to RT again after reading this stuff. I didn't realize it was such an art to get your mag to RT

[Spider-TW]

I have done everything possible to get my tac1 to RT and I can't get it too well at all.

I have:

-cranked my tank to 1150 psi
-tried every spring I could get on the lvl 10 bolt
-tried the RT on/off, ULT on/off, and an emag pin with quad o-ring and normal o-ring in the RT on/off

The darn thing still won't RT very well. I gave up for a while, but I may try to get it to RT again after reading this stuff. I didn't realize it was such an art to get your mag to RT

Pressure is not all that is required from your bottle reg. It has to recover quickly and basically flow well while RT'ing. I have a 3k flatline that could not make my x-valve RT for more than two shots while set to about 1000 psi. My "inline" maxflow hits 19 bps around 900 psi. Also check for flow restrictions like pin hole ports in an ASA.