Pin length vs RT effect trend

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  • Spider-TW
    U R techno-literate!

    • Oct 2006
    • 3554

    #16
    Have you ever tried to read through the RT chronograph procedure ?

    Tom put a lot of background info in it. Just look at the graphs. For an "RT" trigger, the peak on the graph has to be higher than the normal chamber pressure. The graph also shows you how long the effect lasts.

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    • secretweaponevan
      Only HALF Polish!
      • Sep 2007
      • 1132

      #17
      Originally posted by Spider-TW
      Have you ever tried to read through the RT chronograph procedure ?

      Tom put a lot of background info in it. Just look at the graphs. For an "RT" trigger, the peak on the graph has to be higher than the normal chamber pressure. The graph also shows you how long the effect lasts.
      Yeah, but the climb and peak is chamber pressure which means that the on/off pin is already open and is after the RT effect. The chamber pressure is at zero (atmospheric) (and I suspect below zero for a short time due to the cooling) until the on/off opens. Since the top of the on/off (and airpath from the on/off top back to the tank) is always in a high pressure environment, it won't have temperature related pressure spikes.

      And sorry for the complete threadjack Gordon.

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      • cockerpunk
        Haters Gonna Hate
        • Sep 2004
        • 1383

        #18
        it cool, this is exactly what im wondering. im trying to decide between two RTs, my black one which has such a ridiculously smooth trigger, and my new red one, which RTs like a mofo. i have had them apart and measured the pins, but im starting to suspect it has more to do with the frames then the pins.

        also FYI, in most situations the dump chamber does to fully empty. our efficiency tests on the automag show pretty clearly that the dump has some pressure.
        "because every vengeful cop with a lesbian daughter, is having a bad day, and looking for someone to blame"

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        • Ando
          Magusmaximus
          • Jun 2009
          • 4144

          #19
          The AUTOMAG RT has a new, fast recharging regulator not found on any other paintball marker. There are certain characteristics that you should understand about this regulator before you chronograph your RT. The RT's regulator recharges so quickly (up to five times faster than the 68AUTOMAG) that friction heats up the compressed air molecules filling the chamber. The temperature in the air chamber can get as high as 180 degrees and can make the front of the gun warm after a string of shots. It is important to understand that when the air chamber is filled with hot air under pressure, it cools off rapidly over several seconds. This colling will reduce both the chamber pressure and the velocity. If you fire the RT while the air chamber is hot (high pressure) your velocity will be higher. If you wait, the air chamber will cool and velocity will drop noticeably. The faster you fire your RT the more consistent your velocity will be.
          Might clear up what ever you guys are talking about...You lost me after you guys started with atmospheric presures and bla..bla..bla..

          This is what i was talking about when I said the rush of air. You all can keep that theory bla..bla..bla, I'm going to be a over here.

          My Feedback

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          • Spider-TW
            U R techno-literate!

            • Oct 2006
            • 3554

            #20
            Originally posted by secretweaponevan
            Yeah, but the climb and peak is chamber pressure which means that the on/off pin is already open and is after the RT effect. The chamber pressure is at zero (atmospheric) (and I suspect below zero for a short time due to the cooling) until the on/off opens. Since the top of the on/off (and airpath from the on/off top back to the tank) is always in a high pressure environment, it won't have temperature related pressure spikes.

            And sorry for the complete threadjack Gordon.
            Hang on, I think we're almost there. I'm trying to get it all lined out myself. This hit me last night. The third important point of RTs. We all tend to think the RT on / off works the same in both classic and RT valves.

            **edit**
            I can't make that fit. Sorry for the bs.

            **end edit**

            You're playing the RT pressure on the bottom of the pin top and normal pressure on the top of the pin. The difference between them is your force difference between resetting the trigger and a softer RT pull, the sweet spot. The larger the difference the more force you get.

            Also, if you have a lot of friction in your sear pin or trigger hinge pin, you give up sensitivity to ride the little sweet spot you have.
            Last edited by Spider-TW; 08-04-2009, 08:08 PM.

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            • secretweaponevan
              Only HALF Polish!
              • Sep 2007
              • 1132

              #21
              Originally posted by Spider-TW
              Hang on, I think we're almost there. I'm trying to get it all lined out myself. This hit me last night. The third important point of RTs. We all tend to think the RT on / off works the same in both classic and RT valves.

              Remember that the RT on/off (in an RT) is more like a cross-flow valve instead of the top down arrangement like in the classic valve. That is why the ULT works with such a small top o-ring. Look at the zdspb animation about half way through. The inlet pressure is static on the on/off top, but the bottom side of the on/off pin is exposed to the chamber pressure. The RT effect is actually kicking the pin up, immediately after chamber recharge, making the trigger easier to pull than it was just before when the bolt is still returning (which pushed your finger out). That's also why the ULT has lower RT value (skinny top and bottom).

              Now then, if the RT effect can only push your pin part way up through the o-ring and the sear hasn't tripped yet, you get nothing.

              You're playing the RT pressure on the bottom of the pin top and normal pressure on the top of the pin. The difference between them is your force difference between resetting the trigger and a softer RT pull, the sweet spot. The larger the difference the more force you get.

              Also, if you have a lot of friction in your sear pin or trigger hinge pin, you give up sensitivity to ride the little sweet spot you have.
              This post is relevant to my interests. I will re-read it after Sailor Jerry goes back to the hell from which he was spawned (had a REALLY good day and am celbrating).

              Comment

              • Spider-TW
                U R techno-literate!

                • Oct 2006
                • 3554

                #22
                Originally posted by secretweaponevan
                This post is relevant to my interests. I will re-read it after Sailor Jerry goes back to the hell from which he was spawned (had a REALLY good day and am celbrating).
                Glad things are looking up!

                Comment

                • fishmishin
                  Registered User
                  • Dec 2008
                  • 1285

                  #23
                  Originally posted by cockerpunk
                  it cool, this is exactly what im wondering. im trying to decide between two RTs, my black one which has such a ridiculously smooth trigger, and my new red one, which RTs like a mofo. i have had them apart and measured the pins, but im starting to suspect it has more to do with the frames then the pins.

                  also FYI, in most situations the dump chamber does to fully empty. our efficiency tests on the automag show pretty clearly that the dump has some pressure.

                  I changed out my rail and it made a huge difference in the way my gun RT'ed, lol.
                  http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ishin+feedback

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