More MicroMag questions

[OPBN]

Still trying to get my MM to where I want it and running across a couple of questions.

First, do the stock triggers just suck? I keep getting chuffing like the bolt is sticking, but swear it seems to be the trigger. It's like it isnt getting pushed back in place properly. I have read on Intelliframes, that the trigger pin should sit about a business cards width from the back of the trigger, but how far should it sit on a MM? With the sear pin all the way forward when it's aired up, it currently sits maybe 3/16" away.

Second, shoud an X valve be more difficult to get into the MM than a regular valve? When putting the X valve in, it seems REALLY tight. Normally, I can just swap valves from marker to marker, with ease, but wen I took the MM valve out, and tried to put the X in, it definitely isn't as clean a fit. I don't want to force it, but really want the X on it.

[xero28]

Are you talking about the benchmark frames? You should still have the business card distance from the rod to the trigger. I guess depending on which version of MicroMag you may have different tolerance issues, giving you some trouble with the bolts. Though, the X-Valve should be the exact same specs as a regular valve, so I'm not sure what the issue there would be. Does your old valve have a level 10? If not, it may be that the main spring on the X-Valve is stronger/tighter, thus making it harder to push the valve? Just a thought.

[OPBN]

Not sure about the brand of frame. It appears to be the one that would have come with it as it is actually has MicroMag printed on it. It has what I beleive are called "wings" on the top of it. Back of the grip says "GUN F/X". Here's a pic:



I will try adjusting the pin forward.

[xero28]

I'm pretty sure those frames were made by Benchmark. I used to have one just like it. Yeah, you should have the pin up closer to the trigger. The frame does have "wings". The wings actually keep the sear pin from falling out. When I put an intelliframe on my MicroMag, I forgot about the pin and was working on it in the garage one night and tilted it and the pin fell out. I had to cover the pin with some tape to keep it from falling out during play.

[BiNumber3]

the pin should have a small amount of clearance between the trigger for any frame.
Does the x-valve have a lvl 10, and does the classic valve have a lvl 10 as well? take the lvl 10 bolt off the x valve, n try sliding it into the body without the spring, if i doesnt slide easily, u either need to sand down the washer inside the body a bit, or sand the bolt. I would sand ring in the body (use a long file or sand paper wrapped on a chopstick or somethin).

[OPBN]

Well, I actually was able to get the X valve into the body and it does fire. Still seems like the pressure is almost more where the Z pin area is. Hard to tell. But unlike when I put another. I will try pulling it out and putting a classic valve with Lvl 10 in to see what it does. Of course, now I need to go get my tank filled.

UPDATE: I went an pulled the valve out and again popped in the Micromag valve and it goes on easily. Tried swapping the lvl 10 spring out and it still is hard to get in. Same with removing the bolt entirely. Seems to be rubbing on the top of the valve in between the ridge that kee it from going into the body further and the silver part of the bolt. Just off center. Definitely not going to try that again, as it is even harder to get out without the pressure of the spring pushing it back.

As a side note, just tried popping an Emag valve into the Micro and it fits fine. Vice versa, putting the X valve into the another body. Only combination that seems to have problems is the X valve into the MicroMag. Odd.

Lastly, I just notice that the X valve has a red spring that is considerably longer than the spring on either of my other Lvl 10's. What gives?

[BiNumber3]

the spring is for tuning yer lvl 10, they can be quite a bit longer than the others. also, some lvl 10 springs get cut for further tuning.

And not too sure what you mean by the valve getting stuck, just the valve gets stuck or does the bolt get stuck?

Also, sometimes the on/off pin wont be fully depressed which can then catch the body, making it hard to pull out as well. (fully depressing the trigger before removing the valve usually fixes that)

[Sumthinwicked]

fyi xvalves dont fir in all micros old issue i dont know why u must have an earlyt micro i have owned like 15 no joke and a few dont take the x they were the early versions every valve is a lil diff hense the lvl 10 tuning kits .001 is enough to stop things and in spec means to .001 either way so if its off just a hair its off shame i had it happen to and yea the gun fx frames feel sloppy verse crisp but i like em and benchmarks are the stock micromag frames ... any more questions pm me ill help anyway i can

[BiNumber3]

i prefer the other micromag benchmark frame, prolly newer version, with the really thick steel trigger, feels a lot better than the trigger with shoes

[OPBN]

I can get the X valve in, it's just tight and feels like it doesn't want to come out sometimes. Makes me nervous sticking a $200 valve into something that doesn't feel like it wants to let it go. I will probably just use the EMag valve I have on it and swap the X into the RT Pro it was in. Good thing I had backup.

I moved the pin up, so we'll see how that goes, but may end up just putting an Intelliframe on it. I have an extra, but will have to see if I can swap my gloss for someones dust....

And BiNumber, what I mean by valve getting stuck, is the physical valve fits very tight into the body and doesnt feel like it wants to come back out. The bolt is fine. I found out the hard way awhile back about the on/off pin.

thanks for the help guys.

[athomas]

The breach area of the older micromags are a bit tighter than regular mags. This was fine for level 7 bolts but caused sticking issues with the larger diameter level 10 bolts. You may need to sand the front outer lip of the level 10 bolt to make it fit properly.

When adjusting the trigger rod put the safety on. Then with the trigger held against the safety, adjust the trigger rod so that it is almost touching the back of the trigger (approximately a credit card thickness). That is the proper adjustment.

[Frizzle Fry]

First, do the stock triggers just suck? I keep getting chuffing like the bolt is sticking, but swear it seems to be the trigger. It's like it isnt getting pushed back in place properly. I have read on Intelliframes, that the trigger pin should sit about a business cards width from the back of the trigger, but how far should it sit on a MM? With the sear pin all the way forward when it's aired up, it currently sits maybe 3/16" away.

You probably have a bolt issue, a rod length issue, or an input pressure issue. Or maybe all 3.

As for the frame sucking, I've often heard people say that benchmark mag frames are too wobbly for their taste and need a trigger stop. I've also heard it said that benchmark cocker frames are sloppy. I personally like the benchy mag frames because they maximize my ability to R/T (with or without a stop), and the cocker frames are brilliant once you install a lighter/thicker trigger plate... If you throw a KAPP or non-WGP plate in they seem sloppy.

The breach area of the older micromags are a bit tighter than regular mags. This was fine for level 7 bolts but caused sticking issues with the larger diameter level 10 bolts. You may need to sand the front outer lip of the level 10 bolt to make it fit properly.

This is one of those early ones that sometimes doesn't get along with the level 10.

[athomas]

My micromag didn't like my level 10 either. I actually sanded the inside of the breach so it would fit all of my level 10 bolts. I was refinishing my micro anyway, so it didn't matter about the finish.

There are lots of complaints about the sloppy benchmark trigger frames. You can easily shim the trigger to remove the side to side movement and make the trigger nice and crisp.

[OPBN]

For the time being, I have put my Emag w/lvl10 in the Micro and it definitely goes in easier. I haven't had a chance to fire it though until I go get my tank refilled. Honestly, if it has that much of a problem with the level 10, I may just put the valve back in it that it came with and call it a day. Or sell it and look for a newer version. I'm really not sure if I want to grind on it or the bolt.

[flyingpootang]

You can use the safety (when on position) as a trigger stop if you want a shorter pull. All you have to do is trim off some aluminum where the trigger contacts the safety a little at a time. Just make sure not to make it too short that it wouldn't allow the sear to fully release.....