EMag Issues

[Enhander]

So I took my Emag out to the field the other day and wanted to rip some paint. I get out to the chrono and try to switch it to electronic and cant. The switch wont move at all. (mind you the previous day I had taken the Emag out and it was shooting flawlessly)
So I got home and after some in depth maintainence it appeared that the noid was stuck. I dont know how it happend. Do I have to oil it ever now and again? Has this happened to anyone else?

With the electronics on, I continued to pull the trigger and finally the noid started clicking like crazy (in fact I think it was working better than before)

Just curious as to if anyone else has encountered this. Additionally, the board seemed to freeze when i had this problem, but after it was resolved the board (software) worked flawlessly.

Any help is appreciated,
Thanks!

[Jaron]

A machinist warned me against oiling solenoids. He did say a little dry lubricant, like powdered graphite, can be used in them though.

[Ruler_Mark]

Do you have a caliper?

[Enhander]

Unfortunately no, I do not

[Enhander]

Another thing of note is there isnt much difference between my Semi mode and PSP (I have XMod Beta 1.8) Both shoot like the marker is on Ramping (which normally I wouldnt care, but the field I play at is Semi only...and the thing rips on semi)

[athomas]

Using X-mod, increase the fix value to 45 or above. Also, make sure your solenoid polarity is correct.

[Enhander]

How do I check the polarity? And for my future reference, what is FIX? Mine was on 0, I bumped it to 55.

[Looper]

How do I check the polarity? And for my future reference, what is FIX? Mine was on 0, I bumped it to 55.

You should find the XMod PDF manual it has the answers you are looking for and more...

[athomas]

How do I check the polarity? And for my future reference, what is FIX? Mine was on 0, I bumped it to 55.

If the fix value was 0, that was probably causing your full auto problem which would act just like ramping once you started firing the emag.

FIX is an amount of time that the trigger is not sampled. It prevents the solenoid from activating the HES sensor when the solenoid turns off its magnetic field collapses.

[Enhander]

Ill search for the Xmod PDF.


Thanks for the help...if anyone can find the PDF, please post it on here. Cant seem to find it

[Enhander]

Ill search for the Xmod PDF.


Thanks for the help...if anyone can find the PDF, please post it on here. Cant seem to find it

I got the PDF, explains alot Thanks guys

[Enhander]

Ok, so Ive ran into another problem. I changed my dwell to 13 and my FIX to 46 (as per what the manual said) and when I air it up the trigger is exteremley hard to pull in both electronic mode and hybrid mode...

Any ideas?

[athomas]

The electronic trigger pull has nothing to do with the valve. If it is stiff, then something is out of adjustment. The trigger rod should not be hitting the back of the trigger when the selector is in emode and the trigger is held. There should be a tiny bit of movement from the forward position when you pull the trigger in emode. The movement needs to be long enough to activate the HES when pulling the trigger and deactivate the HES when releasing the trigger. The HES has a hysteresis curve associated with it, so the release point is farther forward than the activation point.

[Enhander]

hmm ok, I think thats my problem. When I pull the trigger in Emode, the trigger is hitting the Trigger rod. Ill take a pic of it when i get home and post it on here so you can see.

Im still relativly new to mags, so I apologize if I sound ignorant. The Emag is especially a new experience for me.

So would you suggest that I adjust the trigger rod back a few?

[athomas]

Don't adjust the trigger rod if you don't have to.

The trigger should be held forward by the top magnet. In electronic mode, you should be able move it slightly from the forward position until it hits the trigger stop. This will be your electronic trigger pull. If you need a longer pull, adjust the trigger stop to allow more movement. The trigger stop is adjusted by a small allen screw in the selector pin. It is accessible from the top side of the trigger frame while the trigger frame is off the gun. Once the electronic trigger stop is set, then you can adjust the trigger magnet with an allen key through the front of the trigger. This has to be done with the board turned on. You have to remove the allen key when testing so that it doesn't interfere with the activation point. The activation point needs to be set so that there is a tiny bit of extra movement past activation and a tiny bit of movement forward after the release. The release point will be farther forward than the activation point due to hysteresis. Once you have the activation point set, put the trigger frame on the gun and check to see if the trigger rod is hitting the back of the trigger. If it is, then you need to shorten it so that it no longer touches. Just shorten it enough that it doesn't touch with the trigger against the stop. Too short and the gun won't fire properly in mechanical mode.