E-mag sear tuning questions

[om3n]

So I recently obtained some e-mag lowers, and I LOVE them. However, when I first got them, the sear was so short that it wouldn't trip my on/off when I fired the gun in e-mode, so I lengthened the sear by un-screwing it where it is attached to the solenoid, and after several turns it started to fire.

However, now the sear clicks back and hits the back of the trigger every time I fire in e-mode, almost like an rt effect. It's almost like I unscrewed it TOO much. How do I tell if the sear is properly tuned or not, or what are some things I need to know about the length of the sear?

Thanks guys :)

[kcombs9]

I had the same problem, but it was because my mech sear rod was loose and kept working it way out. So I removed it for now cause I plan on replacing the sear all together soon cause of some damage it has to it.

Anyway back on topic, I'm not sure what the spec length is but some ideas is either back off the mech rod off tell it wont fire in M mode then bring it back out so it just fires. then set your E mode trigger stop so that the trigger wont hit the rod while shooting.

If you don't know the E Mode trigger stop I am referring too is the one in the selector switch. you might be able to just adjust that so it wont come back and hit the rod, then move the magnet if E mode wont work.

[Watcher]

The tolerance specs are stickied on this forum section.

Check them before anything else.

[maniacmechanic]

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=67604

[om3n]

Thank you guys who posted the specs of the trigger/sear rod, but unfortunately I don't have any calipers. I was looking more for some method I could follow to make sure things are the right length without a caliper, much more like the first response I got.

[kcombs9]

Thank you guys who posted the specs of the trigger/sear rod, but unfortunately I don't have any calipers. I was looking more for some method I could follow to make sure things are the right length without a caliper, much more like the first response I got.

My method will not set it all to spec... and I'm new to e mags so take it with a grain of salt. But from my understanding of how it works and how my gun is working what I showed you should work.

Before you move your M mode sear rod try just messing with the E mode trigger stop. that way you don's mess up your M mode rod and it ends up backing out like mine did (previous owner messed with it and so now it wont stay in one spot for long)

[maniacmechanic]

Thank you guys who posted the specs of the trigger/sear rod, but unfortunately I don't have any calipers. I was looking more for some method I could follow to make sure things are the right length without a caliper, much more like the first response I got.

you should have about 3 threads showing between the nut & the clevis , & the CC between the trigger & rod , some E Mag triggers are indented on the backside
The FIRST thing to do is make sure your battery is charged good (fully) , you can't tech the E side with a low battery , if the battery is charged well , you can cheat a weak solenoid by making the plunger A LITTLE longer , to long & you will see excessive sear wear

Kcombes , measure it to spec , then red locktite it , I allways paint my threaded joints with red nail polish , then I can see if they have moved

[kcombs9]

you can cheat a weak solenoid by making the plunger A LITTLE longer , to long & you will see excessive sear wear

Kcombes , measure it to spec , then red locktite it , I allways paint my threaded joints with red nail polish , then I can see if they have moved

This might be the case for me, like I said before I plan on replacing mine cause there is some sear damage (where the sear holds the bolt back) is that the damage you are talking about?

Again the previous owner tweaked the rods so I know mine are not to spec

[Tunaman]

Make sure the trigger rod does not hit the back of the trigger when gassed up in Emode.

[om3n]

Make sure the trigger rod does not hit the back of the trigger when gassed up in Emode.

what if it does when the gun is turned upside/down but not when it's right side up?

[kcombs9]

you shooting while hanging from a tree or something?

That happens cause the rod moves up and down and ends up closer to the trigger when up (upside down) Not sure its a real fault in spec.

[om3n]

you shooting while hanging from a tree or something?

That happens cause the rod moves up and down and ends up closer to the trigger when up (upside down) Not sure its a real fault in spec.

so what if I do shoot when I'm upside-down? You gotta be prepared for anything I always say!!
/sarcasm

Also, I think that the trigger rod just BARELY touches the trigger when I shoot, I can't feel it when the gun is gassed up all the way, but if there is just a little bit of gas left in the system, just enough to make the on/off pressurized, I can hear it and it looks like it's hitting the trigger if I pull it really slowly. This is after I screwed in the rod connected to the solenoid to where there are about 3 threads showing, as recommended several posts above. Should i screw it in more?

[maniacmechanic]

you need these clearances , got to have a gap on that trigger or it may decide to go FA on you , it's 3" from the tip of the plunger to the back of the clevis ( OK 3.005 ) , It will run better if you can get it to factory spec's

[Tunaman]

You cant just guess on these measurements. They have to be prettY much exact or you risk severe sear/bolt wear. Buy a set of digital calipers off of Ebay. They are imperative if you own an emag.

[om3n]

You cant just guess on these measurements. They have to be prettY much exact or you risk severe sear/bolt wear. Buy a set of digital calipers off of Ebay. They are imperative if you own an emag.

I just bought some stupid calipers I hope your happy...