It's been forever: Automag RT problems

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  • atcer
    Original Electro Shooter
    • Sep 2003
    • 317

    #1

    It's been forever: Automag RT problems

    So, I came across this old RT. Its been forever since I used a Mag, but I figured I would take a look at this and see if I could figure out what was wrong/fix it.

    The gun is getting pressure to the valve, because the gauge on the side indicates about 950psi.
    The tank is HPA 68/45, High pressure output.
    The pin behind the trigger does NOT move forward when the gun is gassed.
    We tried cranking the velocity up and it leaks but wont fire. (no pressure to the trigger pin.)
    No leaking (that we can hear anyway.)

    Any Ideas on where to start. I haven't had a chance to pull the valve out and inspect it yet, so I couldn't answer any questions about that... I was more interested in getting opinions on what kinds of problems it could be... That way I kinda know what to look for when I poke around in there.

    Also is there a diagram of an RT, and how to disassemble it online anywhere? Couldn't find one for the life of me....

    Thanks for any/all help guys,

    ATCER
    I'm a big guy with a big marker- 2oo2 'shoebox' style Dust Green 'Planet' milled SP Shocker 88/45k.
  • OPBN
    OldPBNoob

    • Sep 2008
    • 5240

    #2
    RT's will not go as deep into the tanks as classic valves. Mine stops working using around 850-950. Get your tank filled and try it. If the pin isn't resetting it doesn't have enough pressure to reset.
    My AO Feedback

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    • atcer
      Original Electro Shooter
      • Sep 2003
      • 317

      #3
      no the tank is full, the pressure into the valve is 950 ish...

      Im pretty sure the operating pressure is between 750-1000 psi right?
      I'm a big guy with a big marker- 2oo2 'shoebox' style Dust Green 'Planet' milled SP Shocker 88/45k.

      Comment

      • Sumthinwicked
        team id psycho AO-CT
        • Nov 2005
        • 4292

        #4
        i could fire mine all the way down to like 500 so i have no clue what hes talkin about ..

        Comment

        • BiNumber3
          Dazed and Confused

          • Feb 2008
          • 1038

          #5
          yep, any pressure above 800 is fine for an rt valve.

          First, I would pull the valve out (unscrew the thumbscrew, the valve will slide out a bit, then u gotta give it a twist to pull it all the way out)

          The valve is pretty simple, unscrew the 2 halves, check for any debris
          Check the on/off, the brass thing, the on/off assembly slides out.
          clean and lube everything, put it back together and air it up again, get back to us

          Comment

          • maniacmechanic
            PrestonCoPaintball
            • Aug 2006
            • 3453

            #6
            sounds like the on/off is dry from setting , try throwing some oil in the ASA it may get through it , if the trigger rod is not moving toward the trigger the on/off is not getting air or the pin is not moving

            Comment

            • OPBN
              OldPBNoob

              • Sep 2008
              • 5240

              #7
              Ok, I misunderstood, I thought you meant the tank guage was reading that you only had 950psi in the tank. For me, that's when mine usually starts acting wonky.
              My AO Feedback

              Comment

              • atcer
                Original Electro Shooter
                • Sep 2003
                • 317

                #8
                Cool Guys, thanks!

                I was thinking it must be something to do with the on/off, as the trigger rod is not getting any pressure. It moves, but there is no pressure.

                I dont have access to the gun right now, but tomorrow Ill check it out, pull the on/off, and clean and lube, and see if that fixes it.

                Could the on/off pin be missing? Or would it leak?

                Thanks,

                ATCER
                I'm a big guy with a big marker- 2oo2 'shoebox' style Dust Green 'Planet' milled SP Shocker 88/45k.

                Comment

                • BiNumber3
                  Dazed and Confused

                  • Feb 2008
                  • 1038

                  #9
                  it would leak quite a bit if the on/off pin was missing.
                  i'd guess either the pin can't move for some reason (needs lube, or perhaps the pin is bent?), or it's not getting air from blockage

                  Comment

                  • secretweaponevan
                    Only HALF Polish!
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 1132

                    #10
                    Bolt stick would also prevent the trigger pin from pushing forward.

                    Comment

                    • Sumthinwicked
                      team id psycho AO-CT
                      • Nov 2005
                      • 4292

                      #11
                      when u remove the valve u have to press the trigger or you could bend the pin if its sticking out could be the cause also

                      Comment

                      • athomas
                        Of course it works-its AGD
                        • Jan 2002
                        • 8039

                        #12
                        I tend to agree with the bolt stick idea. If the powertube spacer is too short, it will prevent the bolt from going back far enough to allow the sear to reset, especially if the bolt spring is weak.

                        If it is an older RT classic (which I assume it is since you mentioned the gauge on the side), then check to see if it has the proper banjo bolt installed.
                        Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

                        Comment

                        • BiNumber3
                          Dazed and Confused

                          • Feb 2008
                          • 1038

                          #13
                          if the bolt was too far forward for the sear to latchon, wouldnt that cause quite a leak down the barrel? but if it is the bolt, check the spring and make sure it's longer than the bolt, if it's shorter , then it's likely worn out

                          Comment

                          • secretweaponevan
                            Only HALF Polish!
                            • Sep 2007
                            • 1132

                            #14
                            Originally posted by BiNumber3
                            if the bolt was too far forward for the sear to latchon, wouldnt that cause quite a leak down the barrel?
                            Nope. If the front of the sear is held down by the lip of the bolt, the rear of the sear would be holding the on/off pin in the off position.

                            Good thinking though.

                            Comment

                            • vmaxnick
                              Registered User
                              • Jan 2008
                              • 78

                              #15
                              Just a thought and worth checking, When I re-commissioned my old RT I had trouble getting the air valve out of the body. After cleaning and oiling, it was displaying the symptoms you describe. After a lot of head scratching and checking tech specs on this forum, I found that the end of the on/off pin had snapped off leaving the pin too short to work. check that your pin is ok I think it should be .750 but you can check that on here.

                              Comment

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