Breaking in x-valve and level 10

[Butros]

Hey guys, kinda new to these newfangled x valves, but have some experience with classics, and I need ur help.

I just bought a RT pro ULE with intelliframe brand new from AGD. My tank input pressure is just shy of 1100 psi and I have put approx 1 1/2 cases of paint through this marker. This thing as of now is totally stock no adjustments made.

When firing, it wants to RT but after second shot level 10 kicks in and degasses. My pro shop is saying I have to break in the valve and bolt and all. Is this accurate?

What do I need to change right out o the box to get my rt working?

Thanks for any help.

[Ando]

Your pro shop is right but 3000 rounds is more then enough for the break-in-time. What loader do you have?

[kcombs9]

May need to tune the lvl10, sounds like its got a bit of stick to it and cuffs when you RT. assuming you have more then a grav feed hopper

[Butros]

I'm using a ROTOR, so no problems with the hopper at all.

And I'm new to this level 10 tuning, only ever had level 7 in my classics, guess it's time to read up! Not really excited about it, as I don't really have the time to tinker with it, but I guess I have to sacrifice my playing time for tuning time......BUMMER!

[Butros]

My marker came with a parts kit with two more springs, a silver one and a red one. The silver one and the red one seem to be WAY longer than the gold one that came installed on the bolt. I tried to install the red one and gun would not even fire, nor with the silver one. Do these springs need to be cut to work? Why are the two not the same length as the one that came installed on the bolt, makes no sense to me.

I'm just ready to get this thing going before scenario coming up SOON!@

[Ando]

It literally takes 5 min to tune. Read this over, if there's something you don't understand then post up.

http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

Edit:There's no need to cut the springs. The springs are your bread and butter for your anti-chop. If it wouldn't fire with the other springs you probably needed to up the pressure on the back of the valve.

The rotor is more then enough for the marker so I would read up on the lvl 10 tuning which explains what those springs do and see if there's any adj you might need. Here a vids for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

[Butros]

It literally takes 5 min to tune. Read this over, if there's something you don't understand then post up.
http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

DUH! See I just rushed into it and didn't even read. SORRY

Thanks ANDO!


I will post up when I get her running correctly.

Can I do this tuning with no paint? Or does it even matter?

[xero28]

Should be able to do it without paint. To make sure you've got it set up correctly, stick a squeegee or something hard in up about 1/4" away from the bolt. Pull the trigger and let the bolt hit the squeegee. It should chuff and reset back to the cocked position. If it doesn't recock, you just need to adjust the shims in the LX.

[Butros]

Shouldn't it be tuned properly from AGD? Anybody else have to tune right outta the box??

[Ando]

DUH! See I just rushed into it and didn't even read. SORRY

"Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish; and you have fed him for a lifetime."

Stuff can change after the break-in-period and you need no paint to tune the lvl 10

Add shims if the bolt won't reset.

[Butros]

Well, level 10 works, it "chuffs" with a squeegee in the breech.

Changing velocity does not affect RT effect at all. I don't have a chrono handy.

The post on tuning the level 10 has nothing telling me what affects the RT effect. What is it that makes the trigger bounce and how do I adjust it?

[Ando]

The post on tuning the level 10 has nothing telling me what affects the RT effect. What is it that makes the trigger bounce and how do I adjust it?

Air pressure, the higher the pressure going to the valve the faster you'll shoot. You have to sweet spot the trigger.

[kcombs9]

some one got the link to the guys site where he shows RTing at different rates with change in trigger pressure?

[Butros]

Input pressure is at 1100 psi, and I found the sweet spot, can get two good FAST shots out of it, then it chuffs and takes a second to reset the trigger.

I am going to try another shim in Level 10 see if it works

[Butros]

No change with adding another shim, I am going to remove it.

Anyway, this thing is buggin the hell outta me. I guess I have to buy an adjustable REG?