Bead Blasting Old Markers

[ArmyEngineer]

Hey guys,
I have a few Tippmann markers which have some corrosion on the bodies. I have access to a bead blaster for $8 per 15 minutes in an auto / machine shop. I am hoping that they will supply clean fine media, but it might all be recycled and large grit. Aside from that concern, is there anything else I need to be mindful of?

How well do you think it will turn out? Here are a couple of shots of the guinea pig:

[Adam45]

Usually I would say make sure you fill any threaded holes with a long bolt. Then you can blast around the area without damaging the threads. I dont think a 98 has any threaded holes though. I think you should protect the internals. Some people go through the trouble of polishing the insides so media blasting the innards isnt a good idea.

Dont see any other problems. I would only suggest you go slowly and evenly and not watch the clock. It takes what ever time it takes and if you rush then your final result will not be the best it could be.

Good luck on your project.

[Chrome]

Try to keep the media used as gentle as you can; a sand blast will leave a pretty sparkly finish. . . that takes forever to polish back out. . .

No worries on threaded holes, the blasting process works well, I agree on covering the internals. Plan on doing any milling before it hits the blaster?

[Adam45]

Try to keep the media used as gentle as you can; a sand blast will leave a pretty sparkly finish. . . that takes forever to polish back out. . .

No worries on threaded holes, the blasting process works well, I agree on covering the internals. Plan on doing any milling before it hits the blaster?

I agree try using Walnut. I have had good results and it doesnt dig into the surface very much at all.

Gaff tape is a good way to cover any parts you dont want to blast.

[ArmyEngineer]

Thanks for the tips, guys! I really don't know what kind of media they have available. I have also heard that people sometimes use baking soda for an ultra smooth finish.

Chrome, I thought about doing a little milling on the body, but I don't really know what all I would be safe to remove. I gassed these up to make sure they weren't leaking, but I haven't even fired them. I'll look around and see what sort of custom work folks have done.

I didn't make it to the mandatory safety meeting for the shop this morning, so I will have to go get my card on Wednesday. I won't have time to do anything until then anyway.

[Chrome]

The last one I chopped up (I think it is still sitting in the closet somewhere), I took off the "tippmann 98 custom" lettering, the "push safe" lettering, the lip where the velocity screw hole is (was planning on a JCS gold power tube), most of the rear sight, and the top part of the sight rail. A lot of folks like to round off the foregrip and fill in the warning lettering on the other side to smooth it out. Check out model98.org for some ideas. Actually, you can chop up a lot of the shells and still end up with a working marker (some end up with barely anything left. . .). Have fun with it and remember to go easy with the files - go slow and keep even pressure; you can always take more off later, but it is a lot harder to put it back if you take too much off.

[ArmyEngineer]

The last one I chopped up (I think it is still sitting in the closet somewhere), I took off the "tippmann 98 custom" lettering, the "push safe" lettering, the lip where the velocity screw hole is (was planning on a JCS gold power tube), most of the rear sight, and the top part of the sight rail. A lot of folks like to round off the foregrip and fill in the warning lettering on the other side to smooth it out. Check out model98.org for some ideas. Actually, you can chop up a lot of the shells and still end up with a working marker (some end up with barely anything left. . .). Have fun with it and remember to go easy with the files - go slow and keep even pressure; you can always take more off later, but it is a lot harder to put it back if you take too much off.

Good deal! I may wind up just beadblasting and repainting it. I have spent a little time on a mill, but there is a good chance I might screw something up. Plus I would have to call McMasterCarr for the tools. I saw a 98 posted on this forum a while back that looked pretty sick though. I think I will just restore the outside and try to sell the thing. If the beadblasting goes well, I'll do the other two and send them on their way. I need to free some $$ so I can rebuild my E-mag.

[ArmyEngineer]

I went to the shop last night and completed the safety class. Then I jumped on the bead blaster. The Model 98 is now ready for paint. I actually kinda like the look of it now, but I'm afraid it will corrode.

By the way, I didn't mask anything. I just popped out all the internals and the nuts on the passenger side and blasted away. I polished the lettering with 800 grit sandpaper from AutoZone and then finished it off with a little brasso.

[SOUP]

wow, you did a good job on that. What paint will you be using? I would do some research on painting markers. I know for sure that special ops paintball forums has a great guide for painting markers. If you plain on doing it yourself give Special ops a look.

[ArmyEngineer]

Hey SOUP! Thanks for the compliment! I read a while back about baking on a krylon or rustoleum textured enamel finish. I was thinking about a khaki or sandstone color. The good news is that it is a cheap and durable finish, but if I don't like it, I can just hit the sandblaster again for $8. I plan to sell this gun, so I might just try to sell it clean and bare or let the buyer decide. What would you recommend?

[Ando]

krylon will def be your best bet. Color? I would go with a woods ball setup. If anyone is going to buy it'll be a woods guy.

[SOUP]

I think a solid color like olive, or dark green would look great. I would use a dust color so it dosn't shine in the sun light. I notice alot of woodsballers perfer dust/gloss.

[WickedKlown2]

If you want a paint that will stick to aluminium of other alloy metals and is heat curable try Brownells Aluma-Hyde II ... I have used it on M-16's ,,, M-4's and M-24's and it has yet to flake or rub off...

just my 2 pennies

WK2

[Adam45]

Ya that came out nice.

I think just keep it simple. One colour ( even black ) so it keeps its sale value. You won't increase the value dramatically by putting lots of time in it. Make sure its working well and then you know you did your best for the guy who buys it.

keep up the good work

[Spider-TW]

Ya that came out nice.

I think just keep it simple. One colour ( even black ) so it keeps its sale value. You won't increase the value dramatically by putting lots of time in it. Make sure its working well and then you know you did your best for the guy who buys it.

keep up the good work

Yep, nice! I would think raw would be a selling point here, on MCB, or other forums.