emag electrical? issues

[tribalman]

i have an emag and i haven't used it in a long time cause i couldn't get the lvl10 to work, that's not the issue. I decided to see if i could get it working. after i charged the battery for 8 hours i checked the voltage, over 18V, and installed it into the gun. as i lost my pin a long time ago i was assuming it would turn on as soon as there was a good connection, as i'm used to.

after some troubleshooting and random fiddling i managed to get it to turn on, but in order to have it turn on i have to put something metal between the trigger magnet and the frame closes to the HAL sensor. it doesn't work if i put the gun into mech mode and move the trigger as close as possible, only when i swipe an allen or other metal object in between. i found that out by putting the marker in shot counter mode and watching the numbers only increase when the allen is used.

i'm not running air though the gun, it's basiclly apart except for the trigger frame and battery pack. if it matters the board is still using AGD 1.31.

the marker also does not register shots in mech/hybrid or electronic mode if i pull the trigger, only when i swipe an allen between the trigger and the HAL sensor. any idea's what could be causing this issue? i'd love to be rocking my tac and emag again. thanks

[tribalman]

after more fiddling i have found that the above issues only occur if the HAL sensor is in the holder as it should be. if i remove the sensor from the holder and then apply the battery the gun turns on as expected and does not fire as the sensor is too far from the magnet in the trigger. if i remove the holder and move the sensor around i can get it to turn on normally and then also recognize trigger pulls.


and now i just pulled the bottom holder, put the sensor in place, put the top on(with screw) and it seems to be working fine now, i'm just really baffled as to why it wouldn't turn on or function properly before. didn't look like any wires are crossed or shorting out. checked the positive wire connection and it looks like the screw insulation is good as the gun does turn on and the battery isn't just getting really warm, a normal sign of a short.

[ArmyEngineer]

I still don't know a whole lot about the e-mag although I am learning very quickly. Here are a few ideas.

Is the trigger magnet a stock magnet? A higher grade neodymium magnet will have a larger field which might extend past the hall sensor. That could be an issue.

Have you tried adjusting the magnet depth using a small allen wrench?

Perhaps the leads to the hall sensor are not making good contact when sandwiched in the holder. Check the leads and make sure they are all connected to the pins of the sensor and not touching each other.

[maniacmechanic]

I still don't know a whole lot about the e-mag although I am learning very quickly. Here are a few ideas.

Is the trigger magnet a stock magnet? A higher grade neodymium magnet will have a larger field which might extend past the hall sensor. That could be an issue.

Have you tried adjusting the magnet depth using a small allen wrench?

Perhaps the leads to the hall sensor are not making good contact when sandwiched in the holder. Check the leads and make sure they are all connected to the pins of the sensor and not touching each other.

You ARE learning fast

[ArmyEngineer]

Here is one other likely solution. Turn the HES magnet in your trigger around so that the poles are switched. It is possible that if all the magnets in the frame are in agreement (even on the perpendicular, the HES magnet will have a favored alignment) the HES will not detect enough of an induced voltage to register a pull. I noticed this with my own frame.

[tribalman]

i'll check out all off these options. i also noticed when i got to the field today that the electro mode does work with my slight fix, i.e. it counts the shots and if the timer is stopped it starts, but it does not fire. mech mode worked and my friends whom i loaned it kept commenting on how accurate it was, so that was a +.

[FiXeL]

Re-adjust your magnet away from the HES. The emag board does not boot up if the HES is activated. If you are using a different magnet, than it could possibly be too strong and it activates the HES. With putting an allen key in between, you are disrupting the magnetic field.

Hope this is the problem with your marker.

[Eddie9195]

I am having a similar problem with my Emag. It fires fine in Mech mode, but not in E mode. I can remove the valve and press on the sear and it will trip the sear that way, but not when it's together. I was thinking the solenoid rod might need to be extended.

I just bought this a few weeks ago. The previous owner said it worked last time he used it, but he had removed the safety because it was giving him problems. The original body was replaced with a ULS body, so my thought was that the different body might change the adjustment of the sear rod.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks.