HELP!!! Is my X-Valve a paper weight??!!

[xero28]

EDIT: Please don't get confused, the Magic Box is NOT on the X-valve, I was just using the photo to show where the leak was coming from when I put on the other body.

So i've been trying to diagnose a problem in my X-valve for the past few days, and I think I've finally figured out what's going on. There has been a leak coming from the valve. It sounded like it was coming from around the on/off, so I switched the RT with a ULT and the leak was still there. It sounded like it was also leaking down the barrel. I replace the carrier o-ring, still leaking. I put on a level 7 assembly, still leaking. The leak will stop if I hold the trigger down, so that tells me that is is something past the on/off, right?

So, tonight I put the valve in a "Magic Box" body. Part of the body was milled out to allow for the box. When I aired it up, I put my finger around the part of the body that was milled and the air flow changed. I sprayed some water and the was bubbling up around the area.

Here is a picture of what the body looks like and where the air was coming out. (This is not my setup, just showing where it was leaking). If you're not familiar with the magic box, to the bottom right of the photo is the valve, to the left is the body.


So, from what I can tell, the valve is leaking out of where the black part and the silver part of the valve meet. (The part that is right underneath the number "23" in the image below.



Is this normal. I have never heard of this happening to anyone. Are these parts supposed to come apart, or am I just totally SOL? I'm pretty handy and could probably fix it myself if it's doable and someone tells me how, but I don't want to mess up the valve any more than it already is. If there is someone out there that I could send the valve too as well, I could do that.

I'm looking for the AGD gods to smile down on me with this one. Thanks in advance.

[zondo]

Whew! I had to re-read that to make sure the Magic Box was not installed on the X valve

I don't think I've heard of that happening. I'd shoot an email to Tuna.

[PaintballEngineer]

THREAD JACKING! What is the SP "Magic Box" and what is it supposed to do



[/thread_jacking]

[Frizzle Fry]

THREAD JACKING! What is the SP "Magic Box" and what is it supposed to do



[/thread_jacking]

The "Magic Box" did nothing other than allowing you to hot-shot at higher FPS by tipping liquid c02 into it...

They claimed it would "change the pop on the ball from low volume and high pressure to high volume and low pressure" which would allegedly keep the ball from deforming when fired and make it less likely to break. Like most things that SmartParts actually designed (rather than "borrowed" ) it didn't work. I've tested it; it doesn't. In fact, it's just a kinked brass hose, the sole use of which is to keep liquid c02 out of the valve, and even then only if you don't tip the marker more than 35* toward the passenger side.

Interestingly enough, the "SmartMags" with the magic box came with one cool little piece of AGD designed and produced technology; an 8-hole valve back which allowed for better airflow and faster firing... It sounds stupid, but ANS made them for a long time after and I can say without a doubt that my classic valved autoresponse mag chuffs much less with that back installed.

[BiNumber3]

The steel part of the x valve should screw (usually screwed in quite tight, but can prolly become loose over time) into the aluminum part, assuming that's where the leaking is coming from.
I had a classic valve where that part unscrewed, so I just put teflon tape on n it worked.

[secretweaponevan]

I think this is what Tunaman says happens when someone uses CO2 on an RT valve.

If there is a fix, Tuna will know how to do it properly. (probably loc-tite, but I am not sure)

Edit: Here is Tuna's post:http://automags.org/forums/showthrea...&highlight=co2

[TwilightG]

I've had a powertube loosen itself before too. Check to make sure that is nice and tight as well.

Good call on testing with the Magic Box body to find the leak. You definitely wouldn't be able to find it so easy w/ a ULE

[gommie404]

The steel part of the x valve should screw (usually screwed in quite tight, but can prolly become loose over time) into the aluminum part, assuming that's where the leaking is coming from.
I had a classic valve where that part unscrewed, so I just put teflon tape on n it worked.

Yep i had a leak in this part the other day .. took a age to find. in the end i had to make a jig so i could gas up the valve with out it being in the marker.

Your need to warm it up to remove it..

[BigEvil]

There is a special oring under the powertube that you probably cannot get since AGD insists that a repair like that should be done by one of their techs. It's a pretty simple fix, send it out to Tuna he will take care of it.

[xero28]

Thanks for the quick help guys. I sent a message to Tuna and he said that he has the O-ring. I think I could do the repair myself, just need to get a strap wrench or two. I haven't worked with locktite too much. What's the best way of heating it up? Blow dryer, hot water? I figured I'd just disassemble the entire valve, including all o-rings, pistons, bolt, etc, on the front half of the valve and then just drop that in some hot water. Let me know if you have any other suggestions.

[DevilMan]

I think boiling it should do the trick on the Loctite, but getting a hold of it to twist it apart with it that hot is not going to be fun....

Good luck,

DM

[SeeK]

I think boiling it should do the trick on the Loctite, but getting a hold of it to twist it apart with it that hot is not going to be fun....

Good luck,

DM

Heating the power tube with a hair dryer for a couple of minutes and then touch the power tube cap to an ice cube should cause it to shrink quickly and allow you to unscrew it using a big rubber band or rubber jar opener.

It''ll save you from trying to shoot all the water out of the valve.

[xero28]

So, I was looking at the valve again, and there is a VERY small gap between the power tube (silver) and the rest of the valve (black). Is this normal or has the power tube started to unscrew, possibly causing the leak or cutting the o-ring?

[athomas]

I think it is supposed to be tight (no gap).

[Ando]

You need special gear to get one of these things off guys. No way 2 strap wrenches are going to cut the mustard. Your going to need a vice with asbestos or heat resistant none metallic feet, a foot long (or so) tube that's threaded to go into your air port and a heat gun.

Slap it into the vice, heat the bastard up and with the tool installed in the air port and someone bracing the valve upright start turning. It's not an easy feat. If you don't have a setup like that, send it to Tuna or your just going to tear up the outside of your valve.

No joke...

Tuna is your best bet on this one.