???'s about RT Banjo Bolt and ULT pin

[xero28]

Okay, I've got two questions today.

First off, I just traded for a used Classic RT. I'm having an issue in that when I try to take off the banjo bolt, the middle o-ring starts to come off and it gets wedged up close to the top o-ring (the one at the base of the bolt threads) and I have to take the body off because I can't get the banjo out without doing so. What size o-rings do I need in there? Has anyone had a similar issue? Should I just replace the o-ring or could it have something to do with the bolt, frame or rail?

Secondly, does the pin on the ULT come apart? I've seen pictures of the whole thing apart, but I can't see how the pin is removed, is it just threaded? If so, what's the best way of unscrewing it?

Thanks guys.

[Tunaman]

The proper orings for that banjo bolt come in the RT Parts kit. The ULT pin is loctited together at .740. The small oring will be shot if you leave it together while heating it up to get it apart. You can leave the pin intact and change tthe oring carefully. Dont bend the pin

[xero28]

Update:

So it appears that the middle o-ring on the banjo is coming out of it's groove and wedging up closer to the other o-ring when I start to shoot, causing a leak out of the banjo. How flexible are the o-rings supposed to be? The ones that are in there now are more rubbery than say, an on/off o-ring, and they are a different color as well, almost clear, like silicon. Also, what is the hole in the rail where the banjo goes supposed to look like. The one in mine looks as if it tapers out as it goes up (closer to the body/valve). I looks like there are some tool marks around the hole and the ano inside the hole is gone in a few parts, so I don't know if someone tried to modify it and bored it out too much and now the o-ring isn't snug in place.

I switched the bottom most o-ring with the middle to see if it was that particular one that had issues, but after the switch it did the same thing. So I am thinking either both o-rings are shot or there is an issue with my rail.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

[MANN]

pics would help.

[xero28]

pics would help.

Figured someone would bring that up. I'll try to get some after work today.

[MANN]

Pm me once they are up, and Ill try to help. I have a few spare banjo orings I can send you also.

[xero28]

Pm me once they are up, and Ill try to help. I have a few spare banjo orings I can send you also.

[atech2]

Subscribing to see how this turns out, since I am experiencing the same issue.

[Ando]

You probably just need to get new orings. Most oils swell the oring and over time they make them really stretchy. Best to just get a RT repair kit so you'll at least have a few on hand when you need them again.

[xero28]

Okay, so I was able to get some photos this afternoon of what's happening and what the hole looks like.

Here is what's going on with the o-ring. You can see that the two o-rings are almost touching, I don't think you should even be able to see the bottom o-ring from this view.



These next photos are every side of the hole viewing it from the top.






Take a look at the last photo. There appears to be some kind of tool markings on the wall of the hole. If you look about 1/4 of the way down from the top, there is an actual lip of metal sticking out off of the wall. This is the only side that the o-ring wedges up into. I think it may have been drilled or something? I think it might be that the o-rings are just too loose, but the person who I got it from said that he had sent it to Tunaman and that he has installed a new level 10 and did an overhaul on the gun, but I'm not sure if the banjo o-rings were replaced.

[Tunaman]

looks like that hole in the frame is all hacked up. I suggest some 600 grit and try to get that hole cleaned up. It will never stop leaking with a hole that butchered up.

[xero28]

looks like that hole in the frame is all hacked up. I suggest some 600 grit and try to get that hole cleaned up. It will never stop leaking with a hole that butchered up.

Is it because the o-rings are not making a proper seal? Wouldn't sanding it down open the hole more, giving the o-ring more room to move? Or is it a negligible loss of material? Would there be a way to get a thicker o-ring to make it seal better? It will seal and not leak initially, but after I shoot it though a few times, I think the o-ring jumps out of the groove in the banjo and ends up like you see it there.

By the way Tuna, do you happen to remember doing any work on this particular RT? New CF trigger frame, new Level 10?

EDIT: Just out of curiosity, is it possible to turn this rail into one that would fit a standard body/valve? What I mean is, is there a way to put some kind of thicker bushing around a standard field strip screw so it can work with a ULE body and a Classic Valve for example? If the hole for the banjo bolt is shot and it keeps screwing up the o-rings, then I wouldn't want to trash the rail if I didn't have to. I could get a new rail for the RT and then use the old rail for another project. Let me know if any of you have tried this before.

[Ando]

Is it because the o-rings are not making a proper seal?
More then likely..

Wouldn't sanding it down open the hole more, giving the o-ring more room to move?
Don't get crazy with the sanding. All your doing is cleaning up and removing any sharp edges or high points that might be causing the leak...

Or is it a negligible loss of material?
Yes...

Would there be a way to get a thicker o-ring to make it seal better?
Possibly but you would have to find them. Could get expensive unless you have a shop close by that sells them but without cleaning up that mess you have there it'll probably get cut.

It will seal and not leak initially, but after I shoot it though a few times, I think the o-ring jumps out of the groove in the banjo and ends up like you see it there.
Wrong size orings maybe or could be there's already enough meat removed from that frame. If that's the case, there's no hope for the girl. You'll have to replace the rail

By the way Tuna, do you happen to remember doing any work on this particular RT? New CF trigger frame, new Level 10?

EDIT: Just out of curiosity, is it possible to turn this rail into one that would fit a standard body/valve? What I mean is, is there a way to put some kind of thicker bushing around a standard field strip screw so it can work with a ULE body and a Classic Valve for example? If the hole for the banjo bolt is shot and it keeps screwing up the o-rings, then I wouldn't want to trash the rail if I didn't have to. I could get a new rail for the RT and then use the old rail for another project. Let me know if any of you have tried this before.
I don't see why not. Again you'd have to find a place that sells bushings that size....

Or the bushing that PTP sells for the grips might work. You'll have to purchase one for the grip you have on it now anyways, that's if you don't already have another frame.

BTW WTF were you doing that scared up the rail so bad..

[Tunaman]

I think the rail was like that when he bought it.

[xero28]

BTW WTF were you doing that scared up the rail so bad..

Yeah, what Tuna said. The gun to me in this condition. It worked fine at first, but after removing the valve the first time, it started to have these problems. I'll try to clean up the hole, see what happens. If not, I think I found another rail for a decent price, so not a big deal. Thanks for all your help guys, I'll let you know how everything goes.