Classic RT Rail w/ Standard Valve? And Sear Questions.

[xero28]

Okay, so it looks like I need to get a new rail for my Classic RT. The hole for the banjo bolt is pretty mangled on the one I've got now (I've got another thread discussing this). But I don't want this rail to go to waste. It's in fairly good condition, just a couple of scratches by one of the plugs.

Has anyone used a Classic RT Rail (gas thru the rail) with a standard valve (Classic, X-Valve, etc) and body (ULE or classic)? I'm thinking that I can get a small piece of aluminum round bar or something that will fit in the hole, then cut it to length and drill dead center on it to the diameter of a standard field strip screw plus normal rail bushing. This should fit in the hole of the rail and hold the field strip screw and bushing in securely. Any thoughts or suggestions?

My next question is about the sears. I'm working on getting an RT Classic Rail right now, but it doesn't come with a sear/pin. Can I just get the bushing that goes in the sear and put that in a standard classic sear? I found a bushing and threaded pin for sale, and would rather just grab those and put them together with a sear I already have rather than buy a whole setup. Or are the two sears completely different and incompatible with one another?

[cougar20th]

This gun is just as you asked,

Classic RT rail set, Minimag body, Emag valve with retro back, Classic rt zgrip

Now First I will say it isnt 100% assemble & be done & working.

I had to dremel the rail to fit the larger minimag mounting,
I chose to remove the vavles zlock pin. This would either need to be removed or you will need to make the approriate slot in the rail.
I did some dremiling on the holes in the body but I believe now that was a alignment issue with other parts (valve &strip screw)
For the strip screw I simply wrapped it in layers of electrical tape & then cut the tape to the right legth.

This gun gave me fits getting it to work. All due to the strip screw. It must me centered on the hole it fits into. Off alittle & things dont work right.



Sear question I have no clue on.

[xero28]

Cool, nice setup. I forgot about the Z-Lock slot. I'll have to figure out something with that one. What are the dangers of removing the z-lock pin? I know that the bolt could go flying out if the field strip screw comes out, but I've been using a Mag for almost 15 years and never had an issue with that. Good idea with the electrical tape, though I won't be using an RT type frame, probably a standard Intelli, so I'll have to figure out something along the lines of an additional bushing. Now that I think about it, I could just wrap the top part of a standard bushing with tape and leave the bottom part without it so it fits in the trigger frame. Ahhh, the tinkerings we do.

[atech2]

I have an RT project that's not done and working yet also. There are quit a few issuses to deal with, not as simple a swap a it looks. I'll post some pics and my experences when I have more time later.

[atech2]

The problem I discovered when mating a standard body to an RT rail is the frame is mounted slightly farther back on the rail. My guess is this is due to the larger diameter of the banjo bolt. The sear and twist lock are offset from the frame screws, It's only about 0.030" difference, but that's alot when it comes to breach alignment.



Here's a pic of where the breach lines up with a standard body.

[xero28]

I'll have to figure that one out atech. Hopefully there's enough room for the balls to feed consistently still, I'll just have to do it and see.

So, I took the gun apart and unless there's something I'm missing, the sear bushing doesn't come out, so a no go on even trying it with a standard sear. I have no idea how that guy is selling just the bushing? I also bought a Classic RT rail over on customcockers, so at least now I should be able to have a fully functional gun and not have to worry about the banjo.

I cleaned up the hole a little bit more tonight and test fired the gun a bit. I was running low on air in my tank, so at first there was only around 600 psi. After the test shots I was able to get the banjo out, no problem. I filled up my tank again, and with 1100 psi and some 15+ bps, the o-ring jumped again. So I think there's just too much pressure and not enough metal to keep the o-ring in place. Oh well, I've been looking for a new project anyway.

[xero28]

Okay, so I spent about 2 hours in the garage last night and...IT WORKS, sort of. I ghetto milled the area around the front grip screw to accept the classic body mounting, not too bad though, I'm getting better with just a cordless drill . I bolted on the body and valve and aired it up. The first problem that I had was that the back end of the sear was too big, it didn't fit up into the hole in the body. I opened the back hole on the body so the sear could move up and down a little bit more. Did that and the gun was leaking down the barrel A LOT and the sear wasn't catching the bolt correctly. Opened the hole up on the back of the body some more, still nothing.

After a while I realized that the front mounting hole for the body wasn't lining up right with the grip frame screw because of the twist lock pin. I figured out that the specs of the Classic RT body and a standard body are off just a bit between the twist lock and the front mounting hole. So I opened the twist lock hole in the body up some more and was able to get the body to sit correctly (front mounting hole lined up with front grip frame screw).

This moved the body back probably about 2-3 mm off "normal". So what happens when you do this, that's right, the valve moves back, but the bolt doesn't. So now the gun is leaking heavy out the barrel because the bolt isn't snug up against the power tube o-ring. So I have a "eureka" moment and put an extra o-ring in the power tube. Still leaking, but not as bad. So I put in the white plastic backing ring from a level 10 kit. Stopped the leak, but now the gun won't fire. The o-rings were being compressed to much and were holding the bolt in place.

So I put in one o-ring, then 2 level 10 shims, then another o-ring on top of the shims. Aired it up, no leaks. Pulled the trigger, fired great! It's VERY easy to short stroke though, so I've got to figure out if that can be fixed, but hey, I'm happy that at least I got it up and running. I also put an RT on/off in the valve because of some issues with the other one, but I didn't change it back after I got it firing to see if the issues went away. I still also have to get the field strip screw set correctly with a bushing and stuff to hold it since right now I'm just relying on the back hole of the trigger frame to keep it in place. I'll be working on it some more and keep up to date on the progress and actual functionality. Who knows, this thing may only be able to shoot 150 fps and chop like Michael Meyers on Halloween night when I put paint through it, but hey, it's been a nice little project for me.