Emag help

[Ando]

The 2 brass pieces are basically pressed together. No threading. That's the hardest part of the whole disassemble is pulling them apart. Get some vice grips or channel locks to pull them apart. Just remember you need to protect the piston or your going to tear it up. I use some scrap leather I had lying around.

[Jaron]

And I still am not 100% sure that I even have the right on/off pin. Tyring to justify buying a micrometer.

Are you worried you have an RT pin .750 , or the wrong E-Mag pin ( .712 or .725. )? If the former, I know it's not perfect, but if you get a tape measure or a good ruler, you can get a pretty good estimate measure that will tell a .750 or 3/4" RT pin from the shorter E-Mag pins. If you think you've got the wrong E-Mag pin, well 22/32" = 0.71875" so if you can tell if the pin is longer or shorter than that, you'll have a good idea where you stand.

Actually, this makes me want to check my own pin since I've had on and off problems like this.

[OPBN]

I grabbed my Retro valved mag and pulled the on/off pin out and compared it to the one from the Emag valve. The on/off pin out of the E-mag valve is definitely shorter, so I would say it is a .712.

I got the piston apart. Used a knife edge and hammer to get it started and then used a flathead screwdriver to pry it apart. The flat rubber seal was grooved, I flipped it and put it back together.

Now I need air.

[OPBN]

Finally got my tanks filled. Even after taking apart the piston and flipping the seal, there is still air leaking out the back. Not as much as before, but still leaking. When I took it apart, I counted the number of revolutions it took to get the set screw out and turned it back in the same amount when I reassembled. Should I try screwing it in more? I am talking about the set screws inside the piston. I have tried the velocity adjument on the back all the way in, way out and no significant change. I did notice that it stops leaking for a little if I fire a few times.

Does not appear to have any bolt stick any longer. I think I still need to add some shims inside the powertube as the LVLX is working mostly, but still hitting the pencil I stick in there pretty hard.

Still not working solely in E-mode. Trigger is activating the solenoid, but the marker isn't firing. I can manually push down on the solenoid and it fires. Works well in E-Mech, not very reactive though.

I did physically measure the on/off pin using a ruler, and it defintely isn't .750. Actually, when I measured it, I come up with 18mm with comes to around .708 inches. It's not calipers, but with this measurement I am assuming it is the correct .712 pin.

I am using an adjustable regulator set around 850ish.

I put the battery on the charger for several hours to insure a full charge.

Where do I go from here? I know I can send it in to someone, but I would like to try and fix this myself.

[flyingpootang]

When you say leaking out the back you mean out of the velocity adjuster? If so since you have a RT valve and it's the same as a Emag valve I would start replacing parts 1 by 1 to see where the problem ls. What condition are the o-rings in? If their gummy or brown and hard you might want to replace them. If you take them off they may crack or fall apart. What type of oil are you using? I had to replace all the o-rings in a mag that the owner used 3 in 1 oil. You may also want to take apart the valve for a good cleaning and o-ring replacement. When you pull out your regulator if stuck it may be the reason your leaking out of the velocity adjuster.

[OPBN]

Yes, it is leaking out the velocity adjustment hole. I have taken the regulator apart several times and all of the orings look to be intact. Using standard paintball marker oil.

I would think the only one that would cause the leaking through the hole would be the one inside the piston. If it was one of the others, it would leak from a different spot wouldn't it?

I could try taking the piston out of the X-valved marker that I have. I am reluctant to start pulling parts from my Retro valved marker as it's my most reliable. When all else fails, I pull it out and go to it.

[flyingpootang]

Yes, it is leaking out the velocity adjustment hole. I have taken the regulator apart several times and all of the orings look to be intact. Using standard paintball marker oil.

I would think the only one that would cause the leaking through the hole would be the one inside the piston. If it was one of the others, it would leak from a different spot wouldn't it?

I could try taking the piston out of the X-valved marker that I have. I am reluctant to start pulling parts from my Retro valved marker as it's my most reliable. When all else fails, I pull it out and go to it.

I wouldn't worry about pulling parts off of your Xvalve and installing it on your emag valve. It would be the simplest way to trouble shoot your emag valve leak...

[Ando]

Finally got my tanks filled. Even after taking apart the piston and flipping the seal, there is still air leaking out the back. Not as much as before, but still leaking. When I took it apart, I counted the number of revolutions it took to get the set screw out and turned it back in the same amount when I reassembled. Should I try screwing it in more? I am talking about the set screws inside the piston. I have tried the velocity adjument on the back all the way in, way out and no significant change. I did notice that it stops leaking for a little if I fire a few times.
Yes. Just use your calibrated elbow and torque it down till it doesn't move anymore.

Does not appear to have any bolt stick any longer. I think I still need to add some shims inside the powertube as the LVLX is working mostly, but still hitting the pencil I stick in there pretty hard.
I would have to agree. You already said you found the proper carrier so all you need to do is shim it. I hope that other spring causing your bolt to stick is in the trash BTW

Still not working solely in E-mode. Trigger is activating the solenoid, but the marker isn't firing. I can manually push down on the solenoid and it fires. Works well in E-Mech, not very reactive though.
Pull your safety out and see if it's getting in the way in E-mode.

I did physically measure the on/off pin using a ruler, and it defintely isn't .750. Actually, when I measured it, I come up with 18mm with comes to around .708 inches. It's not calipers, but with this measurement I am assuming it is the correct .712 pin.

I am using an adjustable regulator set around 850ish.
Should be fine

I put the battery on the charger for several hours to insure a full charge.
Good Idea.

Where do I go from here? I know I can send it in to someone, but I would like to try and fix this myself.

...

[OPBN]

I've pushed on the passenger side of the safety to make sure it isn't in the way. No difference.

[Ando]

Still. Your sear rod might be too long and hitting the safty. Removing it is the easiest way of telling.

[OPBN]

Easier said than done. Safety does not want to come out... I think I may have lost the ball that sits on top of the spring and it doesn't want to come back out.

[Ando]

Easier said than done. Safety does not want to come out... I think I may have lost the ball that sits on top of the spring and it doesn't want to come back out.

Ouch on the ball. It's a standard ball so any one will work.

It should just slip right out Ck to see if the sear is holding it in.

[OPBN]

The spring was still in there, but no ball. I got it out. Will need a new spring and ball, but it is out. No Joy. Still not working.

Starting to wonder if the battery isn't bad. I had charged it up a couple of days ago, but it just doesn't seem to be pulling down on the sear arm strong enough. I have the grip off, battery on and aired up. The solenoid simply isn't pulling down on the arm enough to trigger the valve. I can push down with my fingernail to make it shoot. Maybe I need to get the battery checked. If I take it in to The Shack to be tested, what should the output voltage be? I bought a new wall to charger converter a couple of weeks ago. Its a 1.5amp, 12volt adapter. Could this be the issue? Maybe it isn't charging the battery enough, or maybe the battery isn't holding a charge?

[OPBN]

Sorry to double post. Just took the battery off of the charger, popped it on, and voila! Works. Now the question. How long should the battery keep a charge? I thought I read that the original 650 mah was supposed to last 20k shots... Should the battery be losing a charge so badly as not to be able to keep a charge overnight? How would I test for this?

[athomas]

....I have tried the velocity adjument on the back all the way in, way out and no significant change. I did notice that it stops leaking for a little if I fire a few times.

Does not appear to have any bolt stick any longer. I think I still need to add some shims inside the powertube as the LVLX is working mostly, but still hitting the pencil I stick in there pretty hard.

If the leak remains after the velocity adjustment is backed way off (don't forget to fire a couple of shots to get rid of the pressure), then the leak is probably caused by something other than the inside of the piston, unless something is out of place. If firing it a few times stops the leak for a moment, it could be a bad regulator seat oring that is causing the issues. The other oring that could cause a leak out the back is the regulator piston oring (the one around the outside). If it is bad, the air escaping past it can also escape out the back If you have spare retro/Xmag close by, do use it to trouble shoot. It will make it much easier to find your problem. Try swapping the regulator piston assembly first.


Putting shims in your level 10 will do nothing in making the bolt hit softer. Shims only change how far the bolt needs to move in order to release air out the vent hole. If the bolt chuffs or shoots, even if it sticks, then it does not need shims. When testing with a pencil, make sure you hold the pencil against the front of the bolt. If the bolt is allowed to move more than 1/4", it will hit with full force. A squeegie in the front of the breach is the easiest way the test the level 10 bolt. If you do need to make it lighter, then you need to use a stiffer spring.