warp feed help

[mad4tv13]

hi my name is noah i own an sp1 and have been researching warp loader and a pinokio after seeing a few fastinating videos with thats very effective combo but im wondering how i can achieve it.

1. the sp1 is electronic and low recoil.
2 i have no skill in messing with the electronics and have no intention of doing it
3 i know i can mount the warp onto my sp1 using the standard bracket
4 i know where to get an adaptor and a volt mod kit so it cankeep up with my black heart board
5 i dont know what else i would need to complete this task and i was pointed in this direction

if this has allready been asked please delete but at least point me in the right direction so i can finish project thank you for your time

[maniacmechanic]

Have you thought about a Q loader , i've seen quite a few on SP8's

[mad4tv13]

yes i have but i dont want a q-loader its overpriced and generally in inaffective with my playing style

i make kamakazy runs and need more then 100 rounds thats why i was looking at the pinokio

because i lay down a lot of paint

[Beemer]

You dont really need a 12v mod IMO. You should be able to intle feed it some how off the board. Otherwise just set the sensor as sensitive as you can and learn to use the prime button on the warp.

I run my XMag Warp with a 12v Revy.

I see you posted in the Warp Thread Sticky.

[Ando]

There's a warp cable you can use that connect from your board to the warp. Not sure what type of connectors you have on that marker but I'm sure it won't be hard to wire in. The warp also has a sensitivity adj in it. If you know someone that has one, ask him if you can play around with it, you might not need the cable.

[Ratt]

hi my name is noah i own an sp1 and have been researching warp loader and a pinokio after seeing a few fastinating videos with thats very effective combo but im wondering how i can achieve it.

1. the sp1 is electronic and low recoil.
2 i have no skill in messing with the electronics and have no intention of doing it
3 i know i can mount the warp onto my sp1 using the standard bracket
4 i know where to get an adaptor and a volt mod kit so it cankeep up with my black heart board
5 i dont know what else i would need to complete this task and i was pointed in this direction

if this has allready been asked please delete but at least point me in the right direction so i can finish project thank you for your time

First, I would try using the shock sensor on the warp. Make the board as sensitive as possible, then dry-fire the gun and see if it will make the warp spin. If not, you will need to wire your warp to your board. It is not an entirely difficult thing to do, but you said you have no intention of messing with the electronics. If that's the case, you might need to find someone here who has done it before. I, myself, could possibly do it, but I don't have a SP1 frame to look at. I'm gonna do a little research on it. If I find anything, I will let you know.

[Ando]

Do you have a wire going into that plug that is labeled pulse? That connector look like the same one on the Emag board for the warp.

EDIT: After further reading that pulse port is used for the Empire RF board and pulse boards which will also work with the warp cable so you should be good.

That is a aftermarket board so I'm not sure if the stock board has that connector.

[mad4tv13]

Quote:
Originally Posted by mad4tv13
hi my name is noah i own an sp1 and have been researching warp loader and a pinokio after seeing a few fastinating videos with thats very effective combo but im wondering how i can achieve it.

1. the sp1 is electronic and low recoil.
2 i have no skill in messing with the electronics and have no intention of doing it
3 i know i can mount the warp onto my sp1 using the standard bracket
4 i know where to get an adaptor and a volt mod kit so it cankeep up with my black heart board
5 i dont know what else i would need to complete this task and i was pointed in this direction

if this has allready been asked please delete but at least point me in the right direction so i can finish project thank you for your time



First, I would try using the shock sensor on the warp. Make the board as sensitive as possible, then dry-fire the gun and see if it will make the warp spin. If not, you will need to wire your warp to your board. It is not an entirely difficult thing to do, but you said you have no intention of messing with the electronics. If that's the case, you might need to find someone here who has done it before. I, myself, could possibly do it, but I don't have a SP1 frame to look at. I'm gonna do a little research on it. If I find anything, I will let you know.

ratt thank you for your help with the board when i saw the videos on youtube by kylester i didnt see any wires it looked like a stock warp feed.

and ando its a black heart the only plug cable i know of that looks like the one in the picture is the one going to the eyes in the marker but other then that im not sure

[mad4tv13]

ill try the shock sensor on the warp when it shows up i just wanted to know if there was anything else besides the regular kit for mounting it like a specific bracket or those gen five mounting brackets ive seen or those custom milled brackets from lukes customs?? thanks for all your help everybody

[Ratt]

ill try the shock sensor on the warp when it shows up i just wanted to know if there was anything else besides the regular kit for mounting it like a specific bracket or those gen five mounting brackets ive seen or those custom milled brackets from lukes customs?? thanks for all your help everybody

I have seen/used 3 different brackets - stock, one of Luke's, and a bracket that PTP made for their version of the warp. The PTP was different because it had the shock sensor in the bracket. Other people mentioned some problems with them (I can't remember what they were), but the problem I had is that the section of bracket that held the sensor was kind of weak. I slid (gun first) into a bunker one day, warp hit the ground, bracket twisted. Not a lot, but it was quite noticeable. I have one of Luke's Warpfeed rear brackets on my Emag, and a stock bracket on my R/T. Luke's bracket is perfect for my Emag, and the stock bracket works just fine on my R/T.

[mad4tv13]

no hopper wobbles or anything with the stock bracket or anything like that or lukes custom brackets?? thats the one thing im worried about

that and how im going to get the hose smoothly around the pinokios long snoz but i guess ill cross that when i come to it

does anyone have anytips for the tube on the warp i dont want to melt the thing lol but are there any other hints you can give??

[Ando]

The stock bracket is solid. The PTP one does have a little movement to it but nothing that should keep you from using it. I still use mine on my mech and it works wonderfully.

does anyone have anytips for the tube on the warp i dont want to melt the thing lol but are there any other hints you can give??

You should be able to clear the nose by pushing the frount of the warp into the marker. If you still need more room, Luke sells these tubes that angle the hose 45*. You should def be able to clear the nose with one of them.

[mad4tv13]

ok thank you youve been a really big help

[Shirow]

If you're looking for one, I have a warp with on/off mod and Luke's bracket already included.. http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=246950

:)

[Watcher]

If you leave the warp hose long enough, it should go right around the hopper without any issues. It'll be a longer ball-stack, but that should be no problem especially if you are running Pinokio.

I think the Pinokio sits high enough to not really interfere with it, but you can always turn the warp in, as was mentioned.


I've never had any problems with the stock mounting bracket, and the vibration sensor is sensetive enough to get set off by the SP-1. I remember running it on an Ion once without issues.