E-Mag RT'ing in E mode

[DoubleDutch]

My newly acquired E-Mag seems to be stuck in the hybrid mode or something, i.e. when I have it set to E mode, I still get the RT effect. M mode seems to work as expected. In E mode, it won't fire if it is switched off. If it is switched on, it fires and the trigger gets pushed back, it feels about the same as when the valve was on my RT. It rips of course, and I think I would use this mode a lot, but I would like to try out pure E mode too.

I have AGD 3.2, an X-Valve, RT on/off with quad o-ring and what I believe to be the correct pin length. My calipers measure to 1/128 of an inch, and when I measured it it came out to 91/128 inch, or 0.7109375. Would it be safe to assume it is a 0.712 inch pin? Or do I need to get better calipers or a micrometer?

Adjust trigger rod length perhaps? I haven't cracked open the lowers yet.

Oh yeah, the E/M selector switch, when going clockwise, will go past horizontal maybe 20 degrees. Is that normal?

[Ruler_Mark]

check your sear for wear where it catches the bolt, also check your on/off pin length, check your plunger length, also make sure the trigger rod isnt touching the trigger in E mode

[flyingpootang]

You may have your selector switch 180* off. Remove it and rotate your selector switch 180*. This may cure both problems. If your trigger pull is too long causing the problem you can shorten the pull by adjusting the set screw on top of the selector. It may also be your trigger rod is too long. Measure your trigger rod length it should be 2.125. After adjusting the rod or set screw you may need to adjust the HES magnet. Be sure to remove the axle sear pin first if you need to remove the lowers...

[DoubleDutch]

Ok, I got some digital calipers and my on/off pin is definitely 0.712 inch.

Not to measure everything else I guess. I removed the rail by removing the sear axle pin, but how do I remove the sear itself? I have never done this before and I don't want to break anything!

[maniacmechanic]

remove the left side grip panel , there is a C clip ( jesus clip ) on the soleniod plunger , remove it then you can tilt & lift the assembly up & out

[Jaron]

Definitely sounds like the trigger rod is too long if it can touch the trigger when locked in E-mode. And yes, the E/M switch can rotate 360 so long as it doesn't run into anything ( like the rail when it's assembled. ) It should have a spring lock that makes it feel "snapped" into place when you move it between positions. If it doesn't, you may have lost the spring or ball bearing.

[DoubleDutch]

Hmmm my trigger rod is 2.115 inch. My plunger length is 3.0125 inch. Looks like the lengths have been messed with? According to the XMod manual the plunger should be 3.005 inch? Any suggestions on what to do next?

One thing I didn't try that was suggested above was to adjust the trigger pull.

Update: I shortened the trigger rod to 2.095 inch, and now the trigger rod does not push against the trigger in E-mode anymore. But, M mode doesn't work anymore. So I guess I will play with it some more, as long as my air doesn't run out.

One question though, should I be worried about my longer plunger length? Does it throw off the geometry of the whole system?

[Ando]

Update: I shortened the trigger rod to 2.095 inch, and now the trigger rod does not push against the trigger in E-mode anymore. But, M mode doesn't work anymore. So I guess I will play with it some more, as long as my air doesn't run out.

Ya. You just went to far in. Just give it baby turns till your able to use it in M mode again while not hitting the trigger in E mode

One question though, should I be worried about my longer plunger length? Does it throw off the geometry of the whole system?

Hmmm I would be. Set it to the correct length and forget it

...

[DoubleDutch]

Ok, a combination of shortening the trigger rod, and adjusting the trigger stop in E mode, solved my problem. Thanks guys! Now someone sell me a Warp Left rail!

[Frizzle Fry]

If your current rail is just a stock Emag or R/T Pro I'll send you a hacksaw and an emery board?

It's cheaper to do it yourself if you've got a stock rail and don't mind fiddling/defacing it.

[DoubleDutch]

Nah my current rail has a matching (to the lowers) red to black fade anno, so i want to keep it like that in case I want to go back to vertical. One question I haven't been able to get answered, what is the difference between an RT Pro rail and an E-Mag rail? I do not have or have ever had a RT Pro rail, will it work for an E-Mag?

[Frizzle Fry]

Nah my current rail has a matching (to the lowers) red to black fade anno, so i want to keep it like that in case I want to go back to vertical. One question I haven't been able to get answered, what is the difference between an RT Pro rail and an E-Mag rail? I do not have or have ever had a RT Pro rail, will it work for an E-Mag?

Milled from the same blank, except the Emag rail only has 3 holes on either side (6 total) for mounting a site rail; the R/T Pro has 3 holes drilled on either side in the front section above where Emag lowers would sit for a stainless steel foregrip bracket (making a total of 12 holes). Tac and Etac rails (at least the old style) were made from the same blank, but left more plain with no rear mounting holes for the mech and no holes period for E.



*ps: I realize that I said "rear mounting hole" in there somewhere. Please don't judge.