Switching out my emag trigger

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  • CatoRockwell
    Woodsballer
    • Jul 2008
    • 704

    #1

    Switching out my emag trigger

    I've been trying to get the trigger out of my frame so I can put in my tunablade but neither side of the pin holding it in is larger than the other and it doesn't matter how much I try to hammer it out on either side it doesn't seem to move at all. Am I missing a step or something?
  • Jaron
    Too much time
    • Jul 2007
    • 101

    #2
    What I do.

    Get a small nailset and small hammer. Place the E-Mag on its left side ( so the LED display is facing down. ) I usually put it on carpet of a soft towel. Put the nailset on the trigger pin and gently hit it out with the hammer. Sometimes they can be very tight.

    Nice to see another E-Magger in Utah, other than Orvis.

    Comment

    • maniacmechanic
      PrestonCoPaintball
      • Aug 2006
      • 3453

      #3
      the trigger will come out easier if the sear assembly ( rod ) is not in your way also , check to make sure your magnets are set up the same

      Comment

      • CatoRockwell
        Woodsballer
        • Jul 2008
        • 704

        #4
        I've been going to town on this thing and I can't for the life ofmme get it to
        budge. Any suggestions?

        Comment

        • Jaron
          Too much time
          • Jul 2007
          • 101

          #5
          Any chance you might have a small screw in there instead of a pin?

          Comment

          • CatoRockwell
            Woodsballer
            • Jul 2008
            • 704

            #6
            If it's a screw it doest have a head and has a blunt ends

            Comment

            • ArmyEngineer
              Ninja
              • Oct 2009
              • 244

              #7
              Originally posted by CatoRockwell
              If it's a screw it doest have a head and has a blunt ends
              I hope no one used loctite on the fluted end of the pin. Get a bigger hammer and give it one good whack. If you can break it loose you can just tap it the rest of the way out. Place the frame on a couple of two by fours so that you have as much contact with the frame as you can manage without covering the pin hole. I'd put a towel in between the boards and the frame. You want to protect the finish, but keep the inertia from the hammer from being dispersed by the frame when it's on something soft. You will be able to knock it out faster that way without running the risk of having your punch slip It would also help if the end of your punch is flat and covers most of the pin end. That way you can be sure not to deform the end of the pin, making it more difficult to remove.

              Comment

              • Ando
                Magusmaximus
                • Jun 2009
                • 4144

                #8
                You have to really whack it bro. Just follow what Jaron said, they're suck in there pretty good.
                My Feedback

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                • CatoRockwell
                  Woodsballer
                  • Jul 2008
                  • 704

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Ando
                  You have to really whack it bro. Just follow what Jaron said, they're suck in there pretty good.
                  I've beat the snot out of this thing and it won't budge

                  Comment

                  • ArmyEngineer
                    Ninja
                    • Oct 2009
                    • 244

                    #10
                    Originally posted by CatoRockwell
                    I've beat the snot out of this thing and it won't budge
                    Put it in the microwave for 20 - 30 seconds. The aluminum will heat up and expand allowing the pin to fall right out! (I'm just kidding. Don't really do that.)

                    If you are using a punch with a pointed end, switch to something with a flat end that is only slightly smaller than the pin itself. Using a pointed punch is tricky because it will tend to slip to the edge of the pin and could scar the hole, which could complicate matters. It is possible that there is wear on your pin which could be causing a snag on the way out.

                    If you are really desperate and have tried using a bigger hammer, the thermal expansion idea might work. Remove all of the other parts populating the frame. Then run some hot water over the frame near the trigger pin. Wiggle the trigger back and forth to make sure any crud in the area doesn't become lodged between the pin and trigger or frame. Keep the water running over it for a minute or two to flush the area and heat the frame. Then take it out, give it a quick drying off, and try to smack the pin out while it's still hot.

                    Comment

                    • CatoRockwell
                      Woodsballer
                      • Jul 2008
                      • 704

                      #11
                      Ok so I got the old trigger out and the new one in but Now the trigger doesn't swing unless I turn the switch to manual. When's it's turned to E mode it doesn't budge.

                      Comment

                      • CatoRockwell
                        Woodsballer
                        • Jul 2008
                        • 704

                        #12
                        I just figured it out I need to draw in the screw that is in the switch

                        Comment

                        • Smoothice
                          Registered User

                          • Nov 2006
                          • 4579

                          #13
                          now all that is left is to leave me some feedback

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