Are These 2 'Mags Feasible to Build?

[Walking Stick]

Here are the major parts of the two 'Mags I'm building.

#1
- ULE body
- RT-Pro X-Valve
- RT-Pro on/off assembly (matches AGD store photo)
- Lvl10 Superbolt
- AM/MM Eclipse splash rail
- AM/MM sear assembly with pin
- Z-Grip frame
- KAPP Grip Extender

#2
- powerfeed-right/hopper-left Minimag body
- Smart Parts SmartMag 68Automag Classic valve
- AM/MM on/off assembly (matches AGD store photo)
- hardnose foamieless bolt
- AM/MM Smart Parts splash rail
- AM/MM sear assembly (no pin yet)
- Y-Grip frame

Info
1. I'll be getting a Lvl7/Foamie bolt for the SmartMag and a ULE kit.
2. If I can't get good reactivity out of the RT-Pro valve with Lvl10 I'll put the Foamie on the RT-Pro and Lvl10 on the SmartMag.
3. I know I'm missing the AM/MM sear pin and thumb screws.
4. For spares I was thinking of an X-Valve o-ring kit, AM/MM o-ring kit, sear pins, extra thumb screws, extra frame screws, powertube spacer kit, AM regulator piston, RT regulator piston assembly, extra regulator piston o-ring and foamies.
5. I'll be drilling through the ULE's front recess to attach a the KAPP grip extension.

Questions
1. Nevermind, I found Lvl10 instructions and pictures under Resources. Thanks AO!
2. The ULE body has a round protrusion where the front frame screw goes but the AM/MM Eclipse rail has a rectangular depression. It'll fit and screw together but should I look into cutting up some delrin or rubber to fill the extra space and give it more support?
3. Need I be concerned about whether or not the sear's trigger rod has been messed with?
4. I need to modify the KAPP grip extender to work with the Z-Grip frame (about a 1/2" wide 60* channel at the bottom rear of the KAPP). Shall I try it myself with a hacksaw/Dremel/files or give it to someone on AO to do it professionally?
5. My Y-Grip did not come with a safety, where can I get just that part?

Any answers or suggestions are much appreciated. I'm hoping to have these up and running in two weeks. Thanks!

[Smoothice]

Yes to all the above. It will all work as you have listed. As for the rail on mag #2. any rail will work but a notch will need to be cut in the side to accomodate the warp body.

[DevilMan]

Yep, and most if not all of the parts can be purchased through here in less than a day more than lkely.

DM

[Shirow]

Bear in mind for mag 2, if you don't want to use an X-Valve you will need to have the valve modified in order to accept a ULT.

[Walking Stick]

Smoothice--good to know about milling the frame; I'll think I'll just stick to a Vert ULE

DevilMan--yup, I've already started

Shirow--perfect timing on that vital little tidbit

Thanks all!

[Shirow]

NP. In regards to the rail for mag 2, any rail will work. I've used a ULE body on an old AM/MM rail and a newer RT style rail.

[vf-xx]

NP. In regards to the rail for mag 2, any rail will work. I've used a ULE body on an old AM/MM rail and a newer RT style rail.

the big difference here is: I don't *think* you need to notch a AM/MM rail for a warp body, but you do have to notch a RT rail.

[BiNumber3]

and I dont think there were ever any full steel RT style valves, all that i've seen have an aluminum back.
And usually, if u get an x-valve, it'll come with a lvl10, and no need to modify it to fit the ULT, so if u want the ULT, it'll prolly be cheaper to go x-valve

[pinkanese]

and I dont think there were ever any full steel RT style valves, all that i've seen have an aluminum back.
And usually, if u get an x-valve, it'll come with a lvl10, and no need to modify it to fit the ULT, so if u want the ULT, it'll prolly be cheaper to go x-valve

The retro and r/t pro valves are all stainless, the Emag valve is the only half aluminum one.

[BiNumber3]

i actually tested a number of retro and rt valves, the back half is indeed aluminum as far as weight and density are concerned, unless u can explain how the "steel" on those were annodized the greyish hues that they were

[Walking Stick]

UPDATED build parts and questions.

[Tunaman]

The retro and r/t pro valves are all stainless, the Emag valve is the only half aluminum one.

Nope. All valves except the Classic have aluminum backs.