Ok Ive got a Classic R/T mag that never let me down till I let it sit for a year. It refuses to fire but gasses up and I hear a distinct click. I have an o-ring kit on the way but till then I was hoping to get clarification on some specifications. I Read the spec thread and my valve pin is .750 but there is no length information for the trigger pin length or where to measure the length from. I tried lengthining and shortening the trigger pin and still nothing. I also remember reading when I got my Lvl 10 bolt to take apart the regulator and adjust the set screw in there. I cannot find the post and have lost the reason behind doing that. All my mag knowledge has been replaced by engineering formulas and methods so I need to relearn everything again. Any help is appreciated I loved shooting this mag and my autococker has never been the same since I sold my original shockteck 3-way and e-blade setup though it still shoots like a champ I miss the mag.
Classic R/T Help
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did it work right when you put it in the closet ?? If yes , then pull the valve & lube everything and try it again -
Yes, oil it.
And since you futzed with the trigger rod, you want a credit card's thickness gap between the back of the trigger and the tip of the trigger rod with the marker gassed up and the safety on.
You might need to take apart the on/off and lube each o-ring prior to gassing up.Comment
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ok forgot to add I had previously done a full lube on it before i gassed it up. Took everything apart and oiled it, made sure it had a credit card thickness. After that did not work I rigged it up so I can directly get at the pin, even when physically depressing the pin it will not fire, upping the pressure makes no difference.Comment
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It sounds like it might be something with the level 10. If available, I would try taking out the Level 10 and putting on a level 7 bolt assembly. That will tell you if it's something to do with the valve or the bolt. If not, you might want to check that the carrier is not too small and that the o-ring isn't restricting the movement of the bolt.Comment
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First, are you using an HP tank? LP tanks won't work on an RT.
Second, did you put both springs back in the regulator when you put it back together? There should be 2. If there is only 1, the reg won't reach a high enough pressure to fire the gun.
Third, push on the bolt with a squeegie. If it clicks back and will then shoot, and continues to do this, you have too tight a carrier. You want the largest one that does not leak.
If you had bolt stick when you adjusted your trigger pin, it is now too long. Too long and the sear won't be able to rise to catch the bolt because the trigger is now limiting the trigger pin's forward movement.Comment
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Did you just install the lvl 10 or ?Originally posted by originalspyderxtraOk Ive got a Classic R/T mag that never let me down till I let it sit for a year. It refuses to fire but gasses up and I hear a distinct click. I have an o-ring kit on the way but till then I was hoping to get clarification on some specifications. I Read the spec thread and my valve pin is .750 but there is no length information for the trigger pin length or where to measure the length from. I tried lengthining and shortening the trigger pin and still nothing. I also remember reading when I got my Lvl 10 bolt to take apart the regulator and adjust the set screw in there. I cannot find the post and have lost the reason behind doing that. All my mag knowledge has been replaced by engineering formulas and methods so I need to relearn everything again. Any help is appreciated I loved shooting this mag and my autococker has never been the same since I sold my original shockteck 3-way and e-blade setup though it still shoots like a champ I miss the mag.
What a lot of people forget to do is turn up the velocity after installing a lvl 10. It takes a little more of a push to get it going then a lvl 7 due to the larger springs. Try turning up the velocity and see what happens.
That thing you read about taking apart the regulator. Don't worry about it unless your valve is leaking out the back when you adj the velocity up for a newly installed lvl 10. Some of the older RT valves have issue with the brass piston inside leaking out the back hole of the reg.Last edited by Ando; 12-16-2009, 09:06 AM.Comment
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Can someone explain this to me, is the set screw only included with new reg pistons or would it be in my RT as well? And which way would I want to adjust it? Sorry to jump in on your thread, I just wanted to get this clarified.Originally posted by originalspyderxtraI also remember reading when I got my Lvl 10 bolt to take apart the regulator and adjust the set screw in there.Comment
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The screw doesn't need to be adjusted.....Originally posted by FutureMagOwnerCan someone explain this to me, is the set screw only included with new reg pistons or would it be in my RT as well? And which way would I want to adjust it? Sorry to jump in on your thread, I just wanted to get this clarified.Comment
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Ya don't worry about that. You only mess with it if your leaking out the back hole of your regular, usually after installing a lvl 10. Best to just buy a new one tho.Originally posted by FutureMagOwnerCan someone explain this to me, is the set screw only included with new reg pistons or would it be in my RT as well? And which way would I want to adjust it? Sorry to jump in on your thread, I just wanted to get this clarified.Comment
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Yes it fired quite well when I installed a used lvl 10 kit I bought, it was in perfect condition. I installed it per the lvl 10 setup instructions and worked flawlessly. It also worked after I did the adjustment to my regulator. But then it just sort of started to work whenever it wanted.
I have also adjusted the velocity adjuster very far in to the point my trigger becomes a rock, it was never that hard to pull the trigger when it worked.
I will just get a new regulator while I am being bugged for a gift list for Christmas and my birthday (a month apart from each other so not a big deal, I wont be able to play again till around March). I put some gouges on the regulator which I don't like and its never bad to have spare parts around.
The bolt spacer is also correct. The bolt fits the way its supposed to in it. Hardly any drag so its not sticking. Also besides the white plastic washer I have 2 metal spacers behind the bolt spacer. The spring is also the same and I imagine it would at least cuff if it was too heavy, its a red spring.
The o-rings do look like they could use a replacement though.Comment
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"The bolt spacer is also correct. The bolt fits the way its supposed to in it. Hardly any drag so its not sticking."
You want the largest carrier that doesn't leak.
Remove all shims and "walk up" carriers a half size at a time until it leaks, then go back down a half size.
Only use shims if the bolt fails to reset after a jam. Test with a squeegie, don't wait until you get out on the field.
"I will just get a new regulator"
You don't need a new regulator. This is a mag, not a cocker. A mag has a regulator built right in. If your mag isn't working, it is something else, not a regulator.Comment
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First, I might as well wait till I get new o-rings then because I am sure mine are no good anyhow. This way everything is fresh.
Second, I meant the regulator piston because I have already messed with it and marred it up and I always had low velocity issues even when cranking the velocity adjuster all the way to the point it starts to leak. I cant remember ever seeing above maybe 260 and even a slight turn out would cause it to not fire at all.Comment
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Ouch. I really need to make the vid on how to pull that thing apart without tearing it up. One of these days. .><.Originally posted by originalspyderxtraI meant the regulator piston because I have already messed with it and marred it upComment

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