Mag won't fire

[sslecyk03]

Well my mag has been working fine until today and I can't figure this one out. I have an x-valve with lvl10 and no ULT. I air it up and the trigger has pressure in it but when I pull it back nothing happens. When I took the gun apart I noticed that the on/off assembly was sticking out of the valve a few mm. I pushed it back in, aired it up again and same thing happened. The on/off was pushed out again when I re-checked. Anybody know what is goin on? Thanks.

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[Madwolvez]

If the trigger still has pressure behind it when you pull it all the way back this could mean your trigger rod needs to be adjusted. you can check this by degassing the marker and removing the value and pushing down on the back end of the sear and see how far the front part comes up. In this case you would want to decrease the trigger rod length.

[sslecyk03]

If the trigger still has pressure behind it when you pull it all the way back this could mean your trigger rod needs to be adjusted. you can check this by degassing the marker and removing the value and pushing down on the back end of the sear and see how far the front part comes up. In this case you would want to decrease the trigger rod length.

It doesn't seem like it is the trigger rod length. One reason being that I made no adjustments to it and it used to work fine. I will try it though, thanks.

Just a thought- If the bolt isn't releasing wouldn't that mean that the trigger pin is too short?

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[FA22RaptorF22]

Well my mag has been working fine until today and I can't figure this one out. I have an x-valve with lvl10 and no ULT. I air it up and the trigger has pressure in it but when I pull it back nothing happens. When I took the gun apart I noticed that the on/off assembly was sticking out of the valve a few mm. I pushed it back in, aired it up again and same thing happened. The on/off was pushed out again when I re-checked. Anybody know what is goin on? Thanks.

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Simple. Torque down the rear field strip screw with an 1/8" key about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn from the most you can just get with your fingers.

If that doesn't fix it, then increase trigger rod length and check all tolerances with a caliper.

E-Mag:
On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"


Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:
On/Off Pin: .750"

[secretweaponevan]

Turn up your velocity and don't use a Low Pressure HPA tank.

[sslecyk03]

Turn up your velocity and don't use a Low Pressure HPA tank.

velocity hasn't been adjusted since I used it last. The tank isn't LP either. In fact the trigger pull feels strangely heavier than normal. I usually torque down the rear field strip screw with an allen wrench every time so that isn't the problem either. I'll try the trigger pin again but I don't see that being the answer either. Thanks again guys. Still don't know why the on/off is popping out either...


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[FA22RaptorF22]

velocity hasn't been adjusted since I used it last. The tank isn't LP either. In fact the trigger pull feels strangely heavier than normal. I usually torque down the rear field strip screw with an allen wrench every time so that isn't the problem either. I'll try the trigger pin again but I don't see that being the answer either. Thanks again guys. Still don't know why the on/off is popping out either...

It only pops out if the sear isn't hitting it properly......or you aren't torqued to spec.

Id also check those on/off orings.......

[Ando]

Maybe your rail bushing happen to fall out?

EDIT:

You don't need much TQ on the frame screw. After you fell the sharp rise in pressure, give it a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and leave it.

What body/rail do you have? Like stated above, finger tight the field strip screw. If it's not working after you set the frame screw, use a allen key to tighten the field strip. Most of the time you'll hear a click when you got it right. I wouldn't go more then a turn and a half our this might happen to you

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...move-year.html

[sslecyk03]

It only pops out if the sear isn't hitting it properly......or you aren't torqued to spec.

Id also check those on/off orings.......

Just checked them, they are fine too. This is becoming a mystery to me I can't seem to fix it. I've tried shortening/lengthening the trigger pin....increasing velocity..checked o-rings...still nothing. The fact that there is pressure on the trigger is an indicator that the sear is hitting the on/off pin anyway.


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[BiNumber3]

have you changed anythin on the gun recently? sounds like the valve isnt gettin air, my RT's feel heavy and won't shoot when i use low/mid pressure tanks, or if the on/off pin is too long.

perhaps somethin is clogging yer airway?

also, if u have a spare on/off, try it in that valve, or try that on/off in a classic valve if u dont have a spare

[sslecyk03]

have you changed anythin on the gun recently? sounds like the valve isnt gettin air, my RT's feel heavy and won't shoot when i use low/mid pressure tanks, or if the on/off pin is too long.

perhaps somethin is clogging yer airway?

also, if u have a spare on/off, try it in that valve, or try that on/off in a classic valve if u dont have a spare

Don't have any spare on/offs or valves, and haven't changed anything recently. How tight is the on/off pin supposed to be in the valve because when I remove the assembly the pin is very wobbly. Not sure if that is how it is supposed to be. Body is a ULE and RT pro rail.


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[Ando]

Up your velocity on the valve some more

[sslecyk03]

Up your velocity on the valve some more

I should also mention that the back of the ULE body was cut off about an inch. I used to have the bottom portion still there but I just remembered that I removed that too recently as I deemed it unnecessary. I feel stupid for doing it now. Is it necessary to have the body under the on/off portion of the valve? Does it hold the on/off in place or something? I don't know if this is causing the problem but it is the only thing I can think of.


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[Ando]

I should also mention that the back of the ULE body was cut off about an inch. I used to have the bottom portion still there but I just remembered that I removed that too recently as I deemed it unnecessary. I feel stupid for doing it now. Is it necessary to have the body under the on/off portion of the valve? Does it hold the on/off in place or something? I don't know if this is causing the problem but it is the only thing I can think of.

WTH



I think I speak for everyone when I say we need pictures...



EDIT: BTW....The body does hold the on/off in place.

[sslecyk03]

WTH



I think I speak for everyone when I say we need a picture..

LOL, sorry I'm just in a bit of a jumble here.


This is what it looks like:




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