Bolt stick? It's gotta' be...

[druid]

I have a ProClassic with a minimag valve. Trigger is mech and I'm using a foamy bolt.

One day I'm playing and I fired and it leaked out the barrel like the bolt stuck.

I get a rebuild kit and change out all the ORings, replace the spring, yadda yadda. Oil it up.

I shoot about 10 shots [HP HPA] and it sticks.

I tried the 215 spacer. No change. I put the 220 back in...no change. Put the next one in and it's worse....so I put the 220 in and leave it.

I have to guess it's bolt stick...correct?

OK...now how do I fix it? [whether it is or not]...

[Spider-TW]

Try frame screw tension?

[FA22RaptorF22]

Per AGD.

If you wiggle the bolt around and the sound of the leak changes......go one carrier smaller.

If bolt stick, go one carrier higher.

If pinching a ball the bolt doesn't reset, or you have a small leak down the barrel when reset, add a shim.

Take care.

[secretweaponevan]

Per AGD.

If you wiggle the bolt around and the sound of the leak changes......go one carrier smaller.

If bolt stick, go one carrier higher.

If pinching a ball the bolt doesn't reset, or you have a small leak down the barrel when reset, add a shim.

Take care.

Spacers = Level 7
Carriers = Level 10

Different animals.

Check your screw tensions and bolt spring. If it doesn't protrude 1/4" past the tip of the bolt, replace it.

[FA22RaptorF22]

Spacers = Level 7
Carriers = Level 10

Different animals.

Check your screw tensions and bolt spring. If it doesn't protrude 1/4" past the tip of the bolt, replace it.

Ahh dangit.......i didn't see it was a level 7............

[druid]

Spacers = Level 7
Carriers = Level 10

Different animals.

Check your screw tensions and bolt spring. If it doesn't protrude 1/4" past the tip of the bolt, replace it.

screw tensions - Meaning I have them too loose or too tight? The two frame screws are only "finger tight."

Bolt spring is brand new and does in fact protrude past the bolt face. It looks gold in color on the inside of the spring [silver on the outside though]...

Thanks for helping me.

[Ando]

screw tensions - Meaning I have them too loose or too tight? The two frame screws are only "finger tight."

Too tight is what he's getting at.

Remove the aftermarket bolt and install a lvl 7 or 10 and see how it goes. Your bolt might have just bit the farm.

[Riddler236]

any chance your wire nubbin ball detent is bent and the bolt is hitting it?

edit: and also, is your trigger rod properly adjusted?

double edit: did you replace the powertube o-ring when you replaced o-rings?

[druid]

Too tight is what he's getting at.

Remove the aftermarket bolt and install a lvl 7 or 10 and see how it goes. Your bolt might have just bit the farm.

Too tight...ok, I'll try that tomorrow.

The bolt is what came with it. Upon inspection, there are no dings, scratches or even marks on the bolt. Same goes for the sear...all lines at 90* angles and it's pointed [as it should be]

1. any chance your wire nubbin ball detent is bent and the bolt is hitting it?

2. edit: and also, is your trigger rod properly adjusted?

3. double edit: did you replace the powertube o-ring when you replaced o-rings?

1. That's possible I guess. It's the plastic version but I'll change it.

2. Well...that could be an issue because I'm not positive how much distance is supposed to be between the trigger proper and the pin. It appears to be about 1/8" of light in between them when the marker is aired up..

3. Yes. All orings were replaced and oiled.

One thing I forgot to mention is that when the leak occurs and I pull the trigger back, the leak stops. If I hold it there about 30 seconds and release it, it seems to have "cleared" the "stick"...but once I fire again, same thing happens again...

[secretweaponevan]

More than likely it is in the frame screw tensions, but if not...
Inspect and possibly replace your powertube o-ring.
Check your bolt for longitudinal scratches which may mean a burr on the body washer.

What is the largest spacer you have? (Bolt stick means you need a longer spacer)

Is your bumper in good shape?

You are putting in the o-ring, then the spacer, then the powertube tip, right?

[Ando]

Your bolt might not show it (by the naked eye) but it could be tweaked just enough that it's catching somewhere. Just swap it out real fast and recheck it for ****s and giggles.

You already stated that your screws are finger tight so it's probably not the problem. I would tighten your frame screw a little more then finger tight though After you feel the sharp rise in TQ, go another 1/2 turn and you should be fine.

[Spider-TW]

What kind of body and barrel is it? I didn't see that above. Ah, I see a nubbin now.

**nm**If it is a ULE, the detent can screw in too far and drag the bolt just like a broken nubbin.

Frame screw and valve screw tensions are usually finger tight on the valve and just wrench tight on the frame (especially since you can't finger tighten a button head screw very well). Sometimes your rail to body fit can be warped and a little wrench tightening on either end can straighten it out.

Got your rail bushing in place?

[athomas]

If you are getting bolt stick caused by powertube spacers, then you need to go to a longer spacer. I see you tried a shorter spacer. That would make the bolt stick worst. If you are using a 0.220", try the 0.225". Use the longest spacer that does not cause a leak while at rest.

[Riddler236]

Got your rail bushing in place?

almost forgot about that. a missing rail bushing can definitely cause a PT leak.

[druid]

Well I think I have it fixed...but it took some doing and I'm not sure what it was. Then another issue popped up...

Got an ORing pack and replaced everything, including the bolt spring.

Aired her up and she still had "stick."

Tore her down AGAIN but this time I found a small "pill" of Teflon Tape stuck to the inside of the power tube [you know how a sweater or sweat pans get those little balls or "pills" on them? Yeah...] between the back of the PT and the PT Oring. Removed that.

Took the .220 spacer out and installed the .225 and also noticed that the coin slot in the power tube tip had burrs on the outside of the slots. I used a jeweler's file and removed them, then reinstalled the PT tip.

Put her back together and aired her up. No leaks...no "sprinkler" leaks [On/off] but I noticed that my sear adjustment pin when aired up had a full 2-3mm of space between it and the back of the trigger. It barely stuck outside the frame so I readjusted that to be between .5 and 1mm. Aired her up again and blasted away about 200 dry fires. The bolt stick seems to be gone but now I have a new issue....the occasional "double shot."

It doesn't happen often...perhaps one in every 20-30 shots. It's like it fires on the trigger pull and then again on the trigger release...

What the H is THAT now???!!