What dwell are you running? If the sear is resetting before the bolt returns seems a longer dwell would be useful in preventing unnecessary wear and also help with the problem you're having in rapid fire.
Homemade E Frame
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^^^Yes I believe it only does this in semi mode but not full auto.I bought the X Valve used. It came with the level X installed with no spare parts or springs.I am using a ULT on/off and I do have the rail bushing in place. As far as the dwell... at the moment I am using the stock CAMD board that came with the Rocking Trigger frame. The firing modes are 3 round birst , 6 round birst, full auto (13 cps) and semi. I dont know if the dwell can be adjusted and if so I dont know how.
Question: Doesnt the on/off pin reset the sear? How would dwell affect this.
Also I have swapped springs around and I may have had a Black spring in there off my A.I.R. valve.sigpicComment
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The on/off pin and the air pressure is what resets the sear, but it only resets after the trigger/solenoid is released. If you release the sear faster than the bolt returns the bolt hits the sear, which I'm pretty sure it's not designed to bump over the sear like a Spyder or Tippmann. You want the dwell to be long enough that the sear is held out of the way until after the bolt fully returns, from what I've read that's around 15ms.Comment
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Thanks guys for all your troubleshooting help. Turnes out the carrier that was in the X Valve was jacked up a little. Thanks also to VF-XX and elgalloblanco for the hands on help and donation of spare parts at TxBall 2010 in Houston....Last Video of this thing I promise.
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According to Kingman you cant,.... some guys on Spyder Forums CLAIM you can....Originally posted by Flatliner333Can you adjust the dwell on the stock CAMD board ...if so how?
I have yet to get an answer back for this question.
~ P8nt
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Jai "P8ntbal4me" MenardComment
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i would of never thought of that and assumed that it was a sear problemOriginally posted by Flatliner333Turnes out the carrier that was in the X Valve was jacked up a little.
i had the same problem with a lvlx with a hyperframe ill check the carrier now
nah make more....with paint!Originally posted by Flatliner333Comment
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Well...let me back up here...I actually had a couple of problems. The sear was getting jammed behind the bolt and I solved this by further modifying the front of the sear
. I know this sounds bad and I may incounter abnormal bolt lip wear but I tapered the front of the sear so the bolt would force it down if it happened to come in contact with it on the way back.Once I fixed that the X Valve started leaking (this was just coincidence). We fixed the leak when elgalloblanco basically rebuilt the valve with spare parts he had (THANK YOU) which included a new power tube oring, changing the carrier and putting a different bolt spring on. I have been shooting Mags for a while and I must say that after having the lvl 10 dialed in this is the most excited I have ever been to be shooting an Automag. I shot about a thousand rounds through it this weekend and did not break a single ball.
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Alright if you insistOriginally posted by pumpi would of never thought of that and assumed that it was a sear problem
i had the same problem with a lvlx with a hyperframe ill check the carrier now
nah make more....with paint!
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get a shot of the frame too!Originally posted by Flatliner333
well if you want
so the sear was the problem huh?
hey hows the LVLX resetting does it get bolt stick?Comment
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Yes...I believe when all was said and done the top of the sear was just a little to long to allow enough space/time for the bolt to make it back before getting caught on it. I dont think the dwell can be adjusted on the stock camd board so I guess I effectively adjusted it by modifying the sear length. Also by cutting the front of the sear so it has a downward angleOriginally posted by pumpget a shot of the frame too!
well if you want
so the sear was the problem huh?
hey hows the LVLX resetting does it get bolt stick?
to it if the bolt does happen to hit the sear the bolt will force the front back down and glide right over it. The timing on the gun is perfect now and no ball breaks as of yet
I posted another vid on YTube of the frame itself If you want to check it out. My next step is attempting to do a custom home anno job on the whole gun.sigpicComment
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If you are using an AGD spec rail and body, the bolt should never be able to get far enough forward to allow the sear to get behind it. The top of the sear should always rest against the outer lip of the bolt if it is attempting to reset before the bolt is back (including if the bolt is fully forward). This why dwell is so critical. You want to hold the sear long enough to allow the bolt to return so that it doesn't rub on the top of the sear.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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