rt on/off

[subsonic]

If you do use the quad oring, you might want to use a shorter on-off pin. It has two sealing points instead of one in the center. But that also means your sealing point is closer. You need a shorter pin to get back to the standard timing length. Without the shorter pin you reduce the amount of charge time available. It probably won't be an issue, but it could potentially cause shoot down if you are really good on the trigger.

See, now I'm all confused. I thought it would be a simple $35 to make my classic mag have less trigger pull and now it's like all these things.

[Hobbez]

Yes, this is quite confusing. I've been following this thread because I have a classic valve and am interested in doing this. Can I just buy an RT on/off and drop it in and have it work? Do I need these special o-rings and pin? Will dropping in a RT on/off cause shootdown? Could someone who has actually done this clear up the confusion?

Thanks

[subsonic]

Yes, this is quite confusing. I've been following this thread because I have a classic valve and am interested in doing this. Can I just buy an RT on/off and drop it in and have it work? Do I need these special o-rings and pin? Will dropping in a RT on/off cause shootdown? Could someone who has actually done this clear up the confusion?

Thanks

I think someone just needs to link to the exact parts we need to buy to put the RT on/off into a classic valve.

[Ando]

I use a RT on/off with a .730 pin i think with no issues and normal orings. You can just shave/grind/file the pin to get it where you want. No need to buy another.

[Coralis]

Ask and you shall receive... http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...&categoryID=23




and possibly this... http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...111&categoryID

[Carnage reigns]

I don't wanna hijack the thread but does the size of the pin, meaning the smaller it is, increase reactivity in a r/t / x-valve? Do I still need a tank over 1000psi to get a good r/t going?

[Coralis]

A shorter pin will make the valve more reactive, dont know if you will be able to go under 1000 psi though.

[viper-mayhem]

The Oring I used is the Grey flat Oring and not the Nylon(white) oring. The Nylon oring gave me leaking problems. I didnt know about shortening the RT on/off pin. I am very fast on the trigger (out ran my Revi) and I do have shootdown problems. Should the length be .730 or should I start at .740 and go down?

If you are not that fast on the trigger or use a single trigger frame, you should be ok. I'm a speedballer using my Classic for woodsball and that is why I'm pretty fast on the trigger and get shootdowns and short strokes.

[athomas]

To clarify:

The retro on-off assembly is a drop in replacement. It will work fine in a classic valve without any adverse effects. Use the retro valve orings, not the classic orings on the on-off top.

If you use a quad oring, it will make the tolerances more critical and you could experience timing issues if you don't also use a shorter on-off pin to compensate for the different contact points. Note* - this is probably not going to be an issue in most setups.

The quad oring makes the on-off assembly even smoother than with the urethane oring. It is a recommended upgrade if you are willing to change the on-off pin to a shorter one or take a chance on the standard one.