Couple questions about my new Tac-One

[llaw99]

I recently got a brand new Tac-One from AGD. I've took it out twice already and it shoots pretty good but I got two problems with it. I can't get the ULE pin to fire semi only. If I pull the trigger too lightly, the trigger bounces and no matter now many shims in there it will still bounce. Is there a way to make it fire semi auto only?

My second questions kind of relates to the first. When I pull the trigger fully it shoots like a dream. If I try to rip on the trigger, the full auto affect kicks in and the bolt will usually stick after 2-4 full auto shots. What could be the problem here? I've played around with the tightness of the field strip screw and that seems to help but the screw is less than half way screwed in and that doesn't feel like a real fix to me. Again, the gun shoots perfect if I don't try to shoot too fast.


I'm using the gold spring, 850 psi tank, and shooting at 280 velocity. In case this info helps.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[Jim2752]

I recently got a brand new Tac-One from AGD. I've took it out twice already and it shoots pretty good but I got two problems with it. I can't get the ULE pin to fire semi only. If I pull the trigger too lightly, the trigger bounces and no matter now many shims in there it will still bounce. Is there a way to make it fire semi auto only?

My second questions kind of relates to the first. When I pull the trigger fully it shoots like a dream. If I try to rip on the trigger, the full auto affect kicks in and the bolt will usually stick after 2-4 full auto shots. What could be the problem here? I've played around with the tightness of the field strip screw and that seems to help but the screw is less than half way screwed in and that doesn't feel like a real fix to me. Again, the gun shoots perfect if I don't try to shoot too fast.


I'm using the gold spring, 850 psi tank, and shooting at 280 velocity. In case this info helps.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I'm having the same problem.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=249178

[Ravenneon]

I recently got a brand new Tac-One from AGD. I've took it out twice already and it shoots pretty good but I got two problems with it. I can't get the ULE pin to fire semi only. If I pull the trigger too lightly, the trigger bounces and no matter now many shims in there it will still bounce. Is there a way to make it fire semi auto only?

My second questions kind of relates to the first. When I pull the trigger fully it shoots like a dream. If I try to rip on the trigger, the full auto affect kicks in and the bolt will usually stick after 2-4 full auto shots. What could be the problem here? I've played around with the tightness of the field strip screw and that seems to help but the screw is less than half way screwed in and that doesn't feel like a real fix to me. Again, the gun shoots perfect if I don't try to shoot too fast.


I'm using the gold spring, 850 psi tank, and shooting at 280 velocity. In case this info helps.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Near as I can tell its working perfectly. The trigger "bounce" your experiencing is called the RT or reactive trigger. Its designed so that when you fire the trigger forces ur finger back to get you ready for the next. As far as pulling it lightly...what you doing in a sense is "sweet spoting" the trigger. You're pulling it just hard enough to trip the sear that combined with the RT effect will essential seem like you're firing full auto because ur pulling, it pushes and ur still pulling...and so on. If you don't pull the trigger all the way it won't fire normally.

As far as the bolt stick...no doubt you have the lvl 10 bolt(anti chop) since its an x valve. On the full auto it maybe trying to fire with a paintball still feeding and the bolt is stopping when it hits it. Thats really all I can come up with. You're not complaining of leaks...it fires when you fully depress the trigger and all ur shots are hitting 280 fps...sounds like you have an easy sweet spot.

[llaw99]

On the full auto it maybe trying to fire with a paintball still feeding and the bolt is stopping when it hits it.

I was dry firing while testing the trigger pull. The bolt stick usually only happens when the RT effect kicks in or I'm firing really fast with my fingers. If I slow down a bit it fires fine. Also, when the bolt sticks, it sometimes sound like something is recharging or a small leak (can't really tell the difference). But it doesn't happen often. The trigger is also very loose during the leak/recharge, making it feel like the gun is not gassed up.

[llaw99]

put a few drops of oil in it and shoot it

Are you referring to the ASA or the actual on/off pin? If you're referring to the on/off pin, should I just oil the outside o-rings or unscrew it and oil the inside too?

Speaking of oiling, is it necessary to oil the outside of the powertube? Where the bolt touches when it slides.

Thanks for all the replies!

[Ando]

What Raven said is spot on.

To totally get rid of the RT effect. Get a tank with a lower output pressure or get a ULT. I think what your looking for is a electro trigger feel. To get close to that you'll need a ULT.

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=358&categoryID=9

A ULT will also make your valve less reactive and give you a sudo electric trigger pull so you can walk the trigger a lot easier then a stock RT on/off. You can find them here used for around $35 or go buy one new.

You'll definitely have to get use to a mag trigger pull. The "bolt stick" you're experiencing is probably you short stroking the marker, good way to test that is try to walk the trigger with no round. If your still getting the symptoms of bolt stick. Find yourself a camera and you can actually see what your doing wrong by not allowing the trigger to fully reset. The sear and on/off must reset before you can pull the trigger again. It takes practice and some getting use to but once you master it you'll be hitting well over 10+ bps depending how fast your fingers can go.

Good technique is one finger pulling the trigger and the other touching the front trigger guard then swap fingers...swap fingers...etc. Once you get a rhythm going, go a little faster and start slapping/tapping the trigger guard as you continue to swap fingers. Get that mastered and after a while you'll be short stroke free and won't need to use the trigger guard anymore.

That "leak/recharge" you hear is your lvl 10 trying to reset after you either short stroke or it hits something in the chamber (a jammed paintball). What you might need to do is add another lvl 10 shim to it and see if it'll reset better. Should take a quarter to half a sec at the most to reset.

Let us know how it goes.

Edit: Oil is a mags best friend. If you have a QD by the valve. Add the oil there. Fill the QD nipple, reconnect and shoot it out. That'll guarantee the valve has the proper amount of oil to function correctly.

[llaw99]

I do have the ULT installed. With one shim it still bounce once. I haven't tried it with no shims yet. I'm gonna have to wait for the weekend for further testing since I need my tank filled.

[Ando]

your tank might be putting out more then you think.

[athomas]

I haven't seen a ULT work properly with 1 or no shims. Perhaps your small ULT top oring has some dirt in it.