Shoot down due to Sear pin. Need help

[fhawkeye]

So when using the sear in the tac-one rail I get tremendous amount of performance. However when using the sear in the AM/MM rail I'm getting a very weak trigger return and when trying to walk the trigger I get upwards to 80 fps shoot down. I was initially told there should not be a difference in performance however I've spent the past 3 days trying adjust the sear pin and getting no positive results. I've deducted that either I am really bad at this (more than possible) or that the am/mm sear assembly does not sit as stable as the sear in the tac-one rail and, therefore, not as consistent.

Any ideas? techniques? thoughts? or comments?

[Ando]

Are you putting a RT Pro Sear into a AM/MM rail?

This

+

=

No go!

This is the sear you want for a AM/MM rail

EDIT:
This is the sear pin you need too for a AM/MM rail

[athomas]

Yeah, those two rails use completely different sear assemblies. You need an AM/MM sear assembly for the AM/MM rail.

[fhawkeye]

Yeah, those two rails use completely different sear assemblies. You need an AM/MM sear assembly for the AM/MM rail.

No, no, I am using the am/mm sear assembly in the am/mm rail and the RT sear assembly in the RT rail.

[Ando]

Ck the gap between your sear arm and trigger. Should have a 1/16 gap, about the thickness of a credit card

[Wrathbringer]

Actually I think there's one critical piece of information that's missing from this equation, are you using an X-Valve with the AM/MM assembly? I seem to remember something about having to use an RT Pro sear assembly with any of the Reactive Valves (RT Pro, X-Valve, E-Mag Valve, etc) since they need to be far more precise.

I don't know the finer details though, so that's really all I can say.

[athomas]

So when using the sear in the tac-one rail I get tremendous amount of performance. However when using the sear in the AM/MM rail I'm getting a very weak trigger return and when trying to walk the trigger I get upwards to 80 fps shoot down. I was initially told there should not be a difference in performance however I've spent the past 3 days trying adjust the sear pin and getting no positive results. I've deducted that either I am really bad at this (more than possible) or that the am/mm sear assembly does not sit as stable as the sear in the tac-one rail and, therefore, not as consistent.

Any ideas? techniques? thoughts? or comments?

There is no adjustment on the sear pin. It is what it is.

There is no difference in operation between the retro/tac rail and the AM/MM rail. If you are using different grip frames on the different guns, they could affect the operation and the ability to fire the gun properly. Make sure you don't short stroke due to not fully releasing the trigger before pulling it again. Also, make sure the rail bushing is installed in both rails.

[fhawkeye]

Actually I think there's one critical piece of information that's missing from this equation, are you using an X-Valve with the AM/MM assembly? I seem to remember something about having to use an RT Pro sear assembly with any of the Reactive Valves (RT Pro, X-Valve, E-Mag Valve, etc) since they need to be far more precise.

I don't know the finer details though, so that's really all I can say.

Yeah it's an x-valve. Interesting point.

[Ando]

Your mistaken bro. Pretty much everything (besides the RT classic) is interchangeable. Have you tried tightening down your fieldstrip screw a little more with a allen key? Don't go over a full turn.

[fhawkeye]

There is no adjustment on the sear pin. It is what it is.

There is no difference in operation between the retro/tac rail and the AM/MM rail. If you are using different grip frames on the different guns, they could affect the operation and the ability to fire the gun properly. Make sure you don't short stroke due to not fully releasing the trigger before pulling it again. Also, make sure the rail bushing is installed in both rails.

using the same grip for both set ups, and bushing is installed in both rails. but for whatever reason the trigger is much much lighter when using the R/T rail and performance drops considerably when I use the AM/MM rail. This tells me something HAS to be up with the sear assembly in the AM/MM rail.

edit: and just hit me, in adjusting the sear pin, i'm not referring to adjusting the pin that holds the sear assembly in place (your right that cant be adjusted), i'm referring to the threaded pin on the sear assembly itself.

just making sure there's no confusion in the nomenclature, sorry if there was.

[fhawkeye]

Your mistaken bro. Pretty much everything (besides the RT classic) is interchangeable. Have you tried tightening down your fieldstrip screw a little more with a allen key? Don't go over a full turn.

yeah i have

[Wrathbringer]

Hmm, well I will test out whether using a AM/MM sear assembly screws with the X-Valve once I get home later today and I'll post up the results. What's your exact setup, ie are you using the ULT or another on/off assembly, frame, etc? It will help us narrow down what the problem is.

[fhawkeye]

Hmm, well I will test out whether using a AM/MM sear assembly screws with the X-Valve once I get home later today and I'll post up the results. What's your exact setup, ie are you using the ULT or another on/off assembly, frame, etc? It will help us narrow down what the problem is.

The exact set up is x-valve, with the ULT on/off, in an ULE body, sitting on the stock tac-one grip frame. need anything else?

good hunting

[athomas]

Make sure the sear pin in the AM/MM rail is snapped fully into place. Also, make sure it is moving freely and not bent or binding in any way.

Make sure the ULE body isn't bottoming out in the pim hole in the AM/MM rail. If it is, it could cause the bolt cycle to be slower due to slight warping of the body.

[Ando]

The exact set up is x-valve, with the ULT on/off, in an ULE body, sitting on the stock tac-one grip frame. need anything else?

good hunting

Now I'm confused. Which setup is giving your the problem?