Classic Valve Issues (Is this a ULT?)

[Bigwooly1013]

I recently traded for a classic valve on here and after receiving it i have a small problem.

After the 1st shot it continually chuffs on all shots there after unless you wait like 30 sec to try and fire again.

I ran through all the normal trouble shooting for this. I was a little puzzled when i got to the on/off.

I looked at all the pictures i could find of a ULT and believe that the classic valve i received has a ULT in it.

This is obviously the cause of the recharge problem if it is a ULT.

So here's the question is this a ULT? and if so What's it worth?

Last Picture is of the whole valve in case i left out any needed Visible Details

[WickedKlown2]

I recently traded for a classic valve on here and after receiving it i have a small problem.

After the 1st shot it continually chuffs on all shots there after unless you wait like 30 sec to try and fire again.

I ran through all the normal trouble shooting for this. I was a little puzzled when i got to the on/off.

I looked at all the pictures i could find of a ULT and believe that the classic valve i received has a ULT in it.

This is obviously the cause of the recharge problem if it is a ULT.

So here's the question is this a ULT? and if so What's it worth?

Last Picture is of the whole valve in case i left out any needed Visible Details

That my friend would be a ULT indeed... Classic Valves don't really like them... What gave it away was the middle diameter of the on/off pin and the shims... Standard RT on/off pins don't taper like that and they don't take shims...

WK2

[reckid1986]

that is a ULT if you want a fast sale you can get $35 for it easy. thats what a lot of them have been selling for lately.

[Bigwooly1013]

I've read about people drilling classic valves so that they would accept a ULT. How could i tell if this has been done?

I don't want to get a regular on/off for it only to have it not work......

Thanks for the help

[reckid1986]

a regular on/off should fix the chuffing problem, and make sure the sear rod is the correct length

[theGOLDENchild]

I've read about people drilling classic valves so that they would accept a ULT. How could i tell if this has been done?

I don't want to get a regular on/off for it only to have it not work......

Thanks for the help

No modifications are needed to install a ULT in a classic valve, you should be fine. Earlier RT valves needed to be drill out, that may be what you're thinking of.

[fishmishin]

You can try to tune the ULT to the valve. It appears that your ULT currently has 3 shims on it. If you have a couple of lvl X shims laying around then you would have enough shims to tune it. The lvl X shims are twice as thick as the ULT shims, so one lvl X shim would equal 2 ULT shims. I would try starting off with the maximum amount of shims you can use on a ULT, 6, and work my ways backwards until the valve worked correctly. So assuming you had the lvl X shims you could start off with 3 lvl X shims, and that would put you at the equivalent of 6 ULT shims. If that doesn't work well, then remove one lvl X shim and add one ULT shim, that would put you at the equivalent 5 ULT shims. Then just continue down the line like so and see if the valve will function like it should. The biggest thing you have to do is make sure you don't mix up the shims, unless you have a micrometer or a really good eye. I would suggest marking the ULT shims you already have with a marker and let it dry good before getting started. I have had 3-4 classic valves that worked really well with ULT's, so you don't have to totally give up on it if you like to tinker with stuff, which most of us do lol. Also I really liked how light the trigger is on a classic valve with a ULT if it is functioning correctly.