Shimming regulator springs, Bad Idea?

[FutureMagOwner]

Hey guys, I gotta a two questions for you guys. First, I've modded my RT's reg piston so it would no longer vent, but with the level 10 I have to screw in the regulator almost all the way in to get it to fire, and I am not sure if I have the range necessary to shoot ~280 fps before the reg is screwed in as far as it goes, I am wondering if it'd be a bad idea to throw in a shim behind the regulator springs to increase the range I have to work with?

My second question is that I have a light leak in the gun that I've been trying to nail down. As I raise the regulator pressure, there is a point in which the gun will fire, and then after that as I adjust it higher, in some positions it will have a fizzling leak, screw it in a little more itll get worse then it will stop again and so on. It is not coming out of the back through the reg piston vent, so I know its not that, but I am having a hell of a time getting rid of it for good. Any suggestions?

[athomas]

If it won't fire with the velocity adjuster screwed in all the way, then there is a problem. Try using the gold bolt spring. It will allow you to shoot at the lowest velocity setting. Remove all of the level 10 shims from the powertube when tuning. Use the largest carrier that does not cause a leak. Always use the same white carrier oring when changing carriers. The carriers adjust the inner diameter of the oring so it fits the bolt stem, which is why it is a necessity to use the same oring each time.

Make sure everything is clean to prevent leaks caused by a piece of dirt. Perhaps the leak is level 10 related. It can change as the oring moves around or gets compressed forward past the vent hole.

[maniacmechanic]

, I've modded my RT's reg piston so it would no longer vent

What is the purpose of doing this ??

[FutureMagOwner]

Its not a barrel leak, you can hear it coming from the back of the valve (not from the hole that you use an allen key to adjust the velocity, it comes out of the back between the body and the valve), so I feel its either the on/off pin or the regulator stem, I don't think the level 10 has any issue on that end of it. I can adjust the regulator so that the gun will fire, I just don't know if that small window has me at the velocity I would need, once its at the point of where it will fire, it has a few more turns before it is all the way in. I've pulled out the on off and the valve stem a number of times and completely wiped them down and re-oiled them so I am just lost as to why its happening, its not that big of a leak so I can live with it, I would just rather not have an issue at all.

The reason I modded the reg piston is because it was venting way before the gun would operate with the level 10, so I made it so it could no longer vent and I could screw in the regulator as much or as little as I want. I always chrono my guns and I am very safety conscious so I don't need that there to prevent me from shooting 4000135981359 FPS.

[Jacobd]

The problem is if your tank reg fails or something crazy happens you might shoot a ball way too hot, just get a new reg piston to work with your lvl 10.

[Konigballer]

Hey guys, I gotta a two questions for you guys. First, I've modded my RT's reg piston so it would no longer vent, but with the level 10 I have to screw in the regulator almost all the way in to get it to fire, and I am not sure if I have the range necessary to shoot ~280 fps before the reg is screwed in as far as it goes, I am wondering if it'd be a bad idea to throw in a shim behind the regulator springs to increase the range I have to

This is weird, you shouldn't have to 'mod' anything to get it to work properly. Do you have an X-valve, or an older Retro Valve? I know that AGD made upgraded RT Reg Pistons for older RT valves adjusted higher to work with the Lvl10 bolt. Maybe you need one.

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=112&categoryID=23

I also used to have that low, bubbling, hissing leak out of the side hole in my Retro Valve. I had to replace my reg valve pin, and break it in with seeral hundred balls before it was gone.

[FutureMagOwner]

It is an RT classic, and the reason I did it was because when I got the gun I had to spend a $100 bucks on parts to fix the problems that were present at that point in time and then the leaking piston creeped its head up so I did that to avoid having to order a new one at least until I need to order a few more things.

I thought it was my valve pin I was able to fix it for a little while then it came up again, I'll see if I can seal it up.