HELP! Serious bolt-stick problem on x-mag

[om3n]

You also need to replace the blue bumper with a clear one. The blue bumper is meant for valves w/o lvlX, and is stiffer than the clear bumpers. That could have caused some of the powertube tip wear, ? athomas. I know that a worn bumper will cause the powertube tip to break off at the top of the threads, I have seen it on a couple of guns already.

Alright, so I need to know now if I need a new bolt. If I do, I'll buy one, but if not, I'll just try my current one. I'm about to buy just a couple powertube tips and possibly a clear bumper it it's actually necessary- I'd like to get this stuff ordered this morning if possible.

Who else thinks I should get a clear bumper / new bolt?

[athomas]

Odd. I would say the top of the sear and the edge of the bolt is probably wearing because the sear is returning before bolt is finished its cycle or the sear rod length is too long causing it to not clear properly. The fact that it is rubbing could also be causing the wear issues on the inside of the body and also the wear on the powertube tip. This would be due to the back of the bolt being pushed towards the top of the body. I suspect that if the plunger is properly adjusted and the dwell is properly set for the cycle time (can be affected by the spring and carrier setup), that the problems will go away.

It is hard to tell if the sear is ok. The most important part is the tip that catches the bolt. If it is rounded instead of a sharp point, then it may not catch the bolt properly. It should still work in the interim until you get another.

The bolt, like the sear, depends on a sharp edge for the sear to catch on. If it is rounded, the sear may slip off and cause full auto effects and misfires.

The clear bumper is recommended for all emag/retro/X valves. This is due to the increased cycle rate. The clear bumper is softer and provides better protection. Level 10 bolts are very hard on the soft clear bumpers because of the smaller contact surface at the back of the bolt. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the blue bumper, even though it is stiffer. A positive side effect of the level 10 is that it holds a higher residual pressure in the chamber so the return speed is reduced which reduces the momentum and the impact that it hits the front of the powertube with. I wouldn't worry about using the blue bumper.

[om3n]

Well I just picked up a bunch of extra parts from Tuna- 2 bolt tips, 4 bumpers, and a couple springs. I know that my sear is alright, and I'm 99% sure the bolt is fine. I'm gonna stick with this bolt probably until I get a job (I have recently been laid off ) and then I'll pick up a new one. I want to take care of this mag if possible.

Odd. I would say the top of the sear and the edge of the bolt is probably wearing because the sear is returning before bolt is finished its cycle or the sear rod length is too long causing it to not clear properly. The fact that it is rubbing could also be causing the wear issues on the inside of the body and also the wear on the powertube tip. This would be due to the back of the bolt being pushed towards the top of the body. I suspect that if the plunger is properly adjusted and the dwell is properly set for the cycle time (can be affected by the spring and carrier setup), that the problems will go away.

It is hard to tell if the sear is ok. The most important part is the tip that catches the bolt. If it is rounded instead of a sharp point, then it may not catch the bolt properly. It should still work in the interim until you get another.

The bolt, like the sear, depends on a sharp edge for the sear to catch on. If it is rounded, the sear may slip off and cause full auto effects and misfires.

The clear bumper is recommended for all emag/retro/X valves. This is due to the increased cycle rate. The clear bumper is softer and provides better protection. Level 10 bolts are very hard on the soft clear bumpers because of the smaller contact surface at the back of the bolt. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the blue bumper, even though it is stiffer. A positive side effect of the level 10 is that it holds a higher residual pressure in the chamber so the return speed is reduced which reduces the momentum and the impact that it hits the front of the powertube with. I wouldn't worry about using the blue bumper.

[om3n]

still waiting on parts from Tuna..


but guys, why does it do this Every once in a while the screen outputs weird unintelligible characters like this. It hasn't always done it, but ever since my original board problem (which I am 99% sure are resolved) it does this every great once in a while (like 500 trigger pulls or so). then it goes away on the next pull and all is normal. Should I be worried about it?... Everything seems to be working fine...
(btw this is practice mode- I haven't actually shot the gun with air since the odd bolt problem that I'm waiting to fix)

[BigEvil]

Most weird issues like that are resolved with a re-flash

[om3n]

Ok, just got my new parts from tuna, just re-adjusted the length of my plunger rod, still getting the same problem. I can't tell if it only happens when the lvl 10 trips or not. What should I do? If someone wouldn't mind chatting with me on FB or AIM tonight, that would be extremely helpful.

[athomas]

How does it work in manual mode? Get that functioning first. That way you control the dwell. Once it fires properly in manual mode, you at least know that it cycles properly. Then we can focus on the electronic control part.

[ArmyEngineer]

Hey guys, I'm pretty sure my problem is the same as omen's. What happens when you pull the trigger in mech mode and hold? Mine resets fine as long as my trigger comes ALL the way back. Emode or short mech pulls stick when the level 10 "chops." I wonder if that could indicate an on/off issue.

[athomas]

Mine resets fine as long as my trigger comes ALL the way back.

Actually, it is the other way around. The trigger comes all the way back as long as it resets. If the bolt doesn't reset the sear, and the trigger rod which is connected to the sear, cannot reset because the bolt is in the way. The trigger remains limp. Its bolt stick. It could be an on-off issue. The on-off issues are fairly easy to diagnose. Manually fire the gun with something in front of the bolt, such as a squeegie. With the trigger held allow the bolt to gently move forward until it vents air. Release the trigger. If it sticks and continues to leak without any signs of stopping, then the problem is with your on-off. If it leaks and then gradually gets less and less until it eventually stops leaking, then it is a carrier issue.

[ArmyEngineer]

Actually, it is the other way around. The trigger comes all the way back as long as it resets. If the bolt doesn't reset the sear, and the trigger rod which is connected to the sear, cannot reset because the bolt is in the way. The trigger remains limp. Its bolt stick. It could be an on-off issue. The on-off issues are fairly easy to diagnose. Manually fire the gun with something in front of the bolt, such as a squeegie. With the trigger held allow the bolt to gently move forward until it vents air. Release the trigger. If it sticks and continues to leak without any signs of stopping, then the problem is with your on-off. If it leaks and then gradually gets less and less until it eventually stops leaking, then it is a carrier issue.

Hmm. I'll post up a video in a sec and see what you think.. A picture is worth 1000 words, so this video is like 1,000*30fps*57s. :)

<object width="500" height="405"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MnFnPJM0lTc&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MnFnPJM0lTc&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="500" height="405"></embed></object>

I'm not trying to hijack you, om3n. I have a feeling we are in the same boat here, and it looks like it's sinking.

[BigEvil]

Hmm. I'll post up a video in a sec and see what you think.. A picture is worth 1000 words, so this video is like 1,000*30fps*57s. :)

<object width="500" height="405"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MnFnPJM0lTc&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MnFnPJM0lTc&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="500" height="405"></embed></object>

I'm not trying to hijack you, om3n. I have a feeling we are in the same boat here, and it looks like it's sinking.

The number of shims determines where the air will vent allowing the bolt to reset. How many do you have in there? Take one out and try that again to see if it is any better.

[ArmyEngineer]

The number of shims determines where the air will vent allowing the bolt to reset. How many do you have in there? Take one out and try that again to see if it is any better.

I actually added one just before that video. lol Currently there are three, and that is the most I've tried, since 4 is supposed to leak. 0-3 and the number of shims seems to have no effect on the sticking. Any other ideas?

[Ando]

Hey brother.

Humor me and fire off a few rounds. Try to duplicate the bolt stick while actually shooting rounds out of it.

You might have a Special Ed. mag

[ArmyEngineer]

Hey brother.

Humor me and fire off a few rounds. Try to duplicate the bolt stick while actually shooting rounds out of it.

You might have a Special Ed. mag

Hooray for the short bus! My momma always said I was special, Ando.

The stick only occurs when the level 10 stops on a ball. I went out and played with it two weeks ago and everything was fine, but I also wasn't shooting fast enough to chop anything. This problem was still here, I just played around it.

I used with my warped e-mag the week before, and it was a paint chopping nightmare. The bolt stuck EXACTLY the same way, and I was having to pull the warp adapter off and reset it midgame.

[cockerpunk]

maybe this has been mentioned, but i did read the whole thread and didn't see it.

both my Emag and my RT classic are VERY sensative to how tight the valve retain screw are tightened. too tight and they bolt stick becuase it pulls the valve down to hard and angles it up into the breach, too loose and it tilts the other way.

i suspect that both of you have your screw on too tight. the non-symmetrical wear on the power tube tip is a dead give away that something isn't lining up properly.