Very frustrated...

[axpkai]

So I am getting extremely frustrated...

I have a tac one that is not firing reliably and a etac now that does full auto when I pull the trigger and keeps on going full auto after I release...

First things first, I was having difficulty with my etac so today I went with my tac one to the field. I only get to play once a month, so when there is issues, it gets very frustrating. I am able to fire the tac one a couple of times and then it seems that either the bolt is sticking or it isn't reseting properly. It definitely happens if I try to rapid fire, if I fire every 2-3 secs, I can do it for a little longer.

My etac as mentioned above does full auto even after the trigger is released. Only way to stop it is to turn off the air. I have changed the quad oring already, however it did not fix it.

Any help would be appreciated. Also, I am probably looking for someone just to fix/tune it for me. I am going out again in 2 weeks. So someone fast would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations!

[Coralis]

Your tac one probably just needs the level 10 retuned (larger carrier) or the mainspring replaced as far a the etac i would start with checking to make sure the sear or the bolt isnt damaged first.

[ArmyEngineer]

The full auto problem is very often due to your on/off as you already suspected. What is your on/off pin length?

[axpkai]

so for the tac one, I did try to go up one size in carrier, however it seems like it might be too loose? When I turn it over the bolt will just fall off, I will try it this weekend and see though.

I will check the sear and the on/off pin length and get back to you. How do I tell if the sear is worn and needs replacing?

[ArmyEngineer]

so for the tac one, I did try to go up one size in carrier, however it seems like it might be too loose? When I turn it over the bolt will just fall off, I will try it this weekend and see though.

I will check the sear and the on/off pin length and get back to you. How do I tell if the sear is worn and needs replacing?

When you look at the sear from the side, the rear corner of the forward section which catches the bolt skirt needs to come to a point, like in this photo:


If it is rounded, you need a new one. You can take a look at your sear, but I'd put my money on the on/off.

[Ando]

[axpkai]

Yes, I have been using the tac one for almost a year, and this definitely feels different from firing issues due to trigger pulls i had in the beginning. As for the etac, it does this on the mech and e modes. I used my finger to push down the back of sear and it seems to me the bottoms work ok since I do not get rapid fire, that is why I though it had to do with the valve.

[athomas]

If the etac is going full auto even on manual mode (battery pin installed or no battery at all), then you have sear or on-off related issues. Check your on-off pin length to make sure it didn't get shortened (damaged). Check the sear tip where it catches the bolt. It should be sharp. Any rounding could cause full auto.

The tac one having bolt stick issues is probably a level 10 tuning issue.

[axpkai]

updates

Ok, I took some pics of the emag sear. Let me know if you guys think it needs replacing







I also measured my on/off pins. I've been switching them in and out so I just measured all 4 that I had. I don't have a digital calipers so they are in mm on my old skool one.

emag on/off - 18mm
ULT on/off x 2 - approx 18.5mm
on/off - 19mm

haven't been able to fire it yet since my 11 month old is still sleeping

[athomas]

The sear looks fine, but it is hard to tell with the limited resolution of the pictures. It doesn't take much wear on the tip to produce full auto, especially if there is also wear on the bolt.

The pins are the correct length, so they shouldn't be a problem.

[athomas]

For comparison, here is a picture of a worn emag sear that was causing full auto problems. It looks pretty good but is worn on the tip where it catches the bolt.

[axpkai]

ok, good news... I got my tac one to at least dry fire consistently. I replaced the bumper and switched out the ult for another one and it seems to work now. Figure I'd end the night ahead so I haven't had a chance to troubleshoot the emag yet.

Also I had a question about the x-valve, I read that there are 2 different ones? One that uses 2 orings for the on/off and one that only uses 1 oring. How do I tell the difference? I tried a regular on/off and what would happen is the pin would pop up and the bottom oring would slip free and then the pin wouldn't reset. The ult works because its flush on the bottom. Let me know what you think.

Also how do you take the small black oring out of the ult on/off?

[athomas]

There are no differences in the X-valves, only differences in the older stainless retro/emag valves. The difference is at the bottom of the on-off hole. The older valves had an step drilled into the hole where the small on-off top oring went. The newer retro valves and all X-valves were machined flat on the bottom. The small on-off top oring was held in place by a larger urethane outer oring in these valves. Its just one oring nested inside the other.

[axpkai]

Ah then that is probably the issue with my emag, I do not have the quad oring nested inside a larger one. When I took out the on/off the larger one must have came out without me seeing. Is that oring the same one as the one that is around the other side of the on/off?

[athomas]

Yes, the same large oring is used around the bottom section and to hold the small oring above the top section. It is part number 123 and is also a powertube oring.