AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
100% synthetic oils (air tool or multipurpose) are best for the urethane orings. Regular oils will react with the orings over a year or two, usually making them brown and hard.
100% synthetic oils (air tool or multipurpose) are best for the urethane orings. Regular oils will react with the orings over a year or two, usually making them brown and hard.
As a partial solvent and hydrocarbon based, I wouldn't. Being well purified helps a lot, but as long as you're buying something, there's cheaper and better suited air tool oils and multi-purpose oil like superlube (in both types). Synthetic plus corrosion inhibitors is my preference, but some people still use vegetable oil.
I can't trust vegetable oil for high humidity or storage though, and that's where you start to see the difference in the oils anyway (for mags). O-rings have a shelf life in the first place, and the oil can shorten it, or just gum everything up. In regular (weekly to monthly) use with detailed cleaning, vegetable oil should be fine. My pauses in play days are unpredictable (soml), so I've never tried it.
I have an F-1 illustrator that was put away clean with Hoppe's oil for several years. The striker o-ring was so melted I couldn't tell what size it had been. The bolt o-rings were weak and hardened, but still together so they must have been a different compound.
One more thing, if it doesn't feel slippery and durable on my fingers in the first place, I won't use it. If I shouldn't be putting it on my fingers, I won't use it. I find that a good start.
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