RT Shootdown And Pin shaving

[big poppa fluff]

Just got A E-mag valve in the mail. i put it in the gun, no leaks, no bolt stick,but It does have shoot down bad. The first shot RT's fine. but after that it goes...bog bog bog. My reg out put is 800psi. Its a preset tank no inline reg, That should be enough. The valve does have quad orings on it, and its a .75 pin. I read that shaving the pin down will fix the problem but I don't know witch side to shave down or what .75 means. Is that .75cm or .75 of a inch??? How will i know how much to take off? What do I need to do .

[Spider-TW]

First try a stock oring instead of the quad, if you're not using it on an emag. The quad lowers the seal point about .025 inches or so.

If you can't live with the stock urethane oring (not teflon), you can buy a .725 pin from AGD. The teflon seals, but they can get tight.

If not that, then carefully grind it down a few mils at a time and think real hard before you go below .714. :)

[big poppa fluff]

First try a stock oring instead of the quad, if you're not using it on an emag. The quad lowers the seal point about .025 inches or so.

If you can't live with the stock urethane oring (not teflon), you can buy a .725 pin from AGD. The teflon seals, but they can get tight.

If not that, then carefully grind it down a few mils at a time and think real hard before you go below .714. :)

I didnt get any stock o-rings with it. So I dremeled down the pin about 1/32 witch is about .03125 of a inch. It doesnt bog down anymore but it doesnt seem to RT Like I want it. Is it because I'm only running at 800psi?

[Spider-TW]

I didnt get any stock o-rings with it. So I dremeled down the pin about 1/32 witch is about .03125 of a inch. It doesnt bog down anymore but it doesnt seem to RT Like I want it. Is it because I'm only running at 800psi?

You have to have a notably fast 800 to RT at all, it is pretty uncommon. There's lots of threads on RT effects, but basically the higher pressure you put in, the less you have to worry about flow rates and restrictions. The other end of that is the problem that with higher input pressures, you usually end up with higher RT rates that will get you some unwanted attention.

Be sure your reg seals are good but not too tight and there are no restrictions from the ASA to the valve. Be sure everything from the on/off pin to the trigger is free to move.

Beyond that, you probably need more flow. If you are right on the edge, it may work with paint but not dry firing, especially with a level 10.

[athomas]

A lot of people misread what reactive is all about. They think it is about full auto. It is not. Does the trigger kick back with more force than what you pulled the trigger with? If yes, then it is working fine. The full auto reactivity that people try to get is actually the gun operating on the edge of not functioning properly. It can wear out parts prematurely, especially if not tuned properly.

That being said, if you want reactivity, you need a short on-off pin and a high pressure, high flow air input to the valve. the short on-off pin reduces the distance that the pin has to travel between open and closed at the same time that the sear catches the bolt or releases it.

[big poppa fluff]

A lot of people misread what reactive is all about. They think it is about full auto. It is not. Does the trigger kick back with more force than what you pulled the trigger with? If yes, then it is working fine. The full auto reactivity that people try to get is actually the gun operating on the edge of not functioning properly. It can wear out parts prematurely, especially if not tuned properly.

That being said, if you want reactivity, you need a short on-off pin and a high pressure, high flow air input to the valve. the short on-off pin reduces the distance that the pin has to travel between open and closed at the same time that the sear catches the bolt or releases it.

It RT's fine. I want the quick burst though. This is my woods gun set up. I play with a bunch of Ego, DM, and other electro freaks that have there ramping ridiculously high. So I want to show them that old school can still hold its own.

[Ando]

It RT's fine. I want the quick burst though. This is my woods gun set up. I play with a bunch of Ego, DM, and other electro freaks that have there ramping ridiculously high. So I want to show them that old school can still hold its own.

Find yourself an adj regulator that can hit 1500 PSI. That'll show them

[athomas]

Just got A E-mag valve in the mail. i put it in the gun, no leaks, no bolt stick,but It does have shoot down bad. The first shot RT's fine. but after that it goes...bog bog bog. My reg out put is 800psi. Its a preset tank no inline reg, That should be enough. The valve does have quad orings on it, and its a .75 pin. I read that shaving the pin down will fix the problem but I don't know witch side to shave down or what .75 means. Is that .75cm or .75 of a inch??? How will i know how much to take off? What do I need to do .

The micros need a very short pin. You should get a 0.712" pin for your setup. I see you took about .031" off so you should be fine there. As mentioned, you need a very high flow air setup. Any restriction will reduce the ability to keep up. The ASA is one area often overlooked. Make sure the pin is just the right length. Too long or too short and it will restrict air flow out of the bottle regulator. Another area, is the connectors. If they are screwed in too far, they can close off the air path. They can also have very small air passages in some cases. Select the right ones for the job. Use the short level 10 bolt spring. It will give you the largest pressure differential, which is what the reactivity is based on. Use the most efficient barrel for your setup. That would probably be an 12" barrel with minimal porting in the first 8".

[big poppa fluff]

The micros need a very short pin. You should get a 0.712" pin for your setup. I see you took about .031" off so you should be fine there. As mentioned, you need a very high flow air setup. Any restriction will reduce the ability to keep up. The ASA is one area often overlooked. Make sure the pin is just the right length. Too long or too short and it will restrict air flow out of the bottle regulator. Another area, is the connectors. If they are screwed in too far, they can close off the air path. They can also have very small air passages in some cases. Select the right ones for the job. Use the short level 10 bolt spring. It will give you the largest pressure differential, which is what the reactivity is based on. Use the most efficient barrel for your setup. That would probably be an 12" barrel with minimal porting in the first 8".

all That info helps alot. I now have to set up my air flow different but that shouldn't be to bad. Thanks If any one out there has a cheap maybe out of date adjustable tank let me know.