Couple of ASA / RT Questions

[snowman]

So, I'm getting ready for Living Legends III. I finally have a Warp like I always wanted. I also never liked the classic AGD ASA (you know, the angled one) so I got a new ASA (the make and model escape me at the moment.)

I'm mounting all of this on to my Z-grip, on my RT-Pro. 68cu 4500, PSI tank.

The ASA is actually two pieces, the cage that mounts directly to the Z, and then the actual ASA with On/Off. There are only two holes in the ASA; the main for the air to the gun, and then I'm presuming a pin hole release type hole.

1. What kind of screws do I need to mount the cage? I thought I had the right ones 10-32 socket head, 3/4inch, but there's too much wiggle room when I put on the warp, in fact there's a lof of wiggle. Do I just need longer screws, or should I use the 4mm?

2. Can use a Macro line on my RT? I just don't like the feel of the braided hose.

3. When I mount the ASA, put on the tank and turn it on, it leaks from the release hole. That tiny little hole. I tried turning the on/off all the way, but either on partially, or on full, it leaks from that hole. I took the ASA apart and it looks ok initially and since it's brand new, I can't think of why it wouldn't work.

Any tips or trouble shooting techniques would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

[DevilMan]

So, I'm getting ready for Living Legends III. I finally have a Warp like I always wanted. I also never liked the classic AGD ASA (you know, the angled one) so I got a new ASA (the make and model escape me at the moment.)

I'm mounting all of this on to my Z-grip, on my RT-Pro. 68cu 4500, PSI tank.

The ASA is actually two pieces, the cage that mounts directly to the Z, and then the actual ASA with On/Off. There are only two holes in the ASA; the main for the air to the gun, and then I'm presuming a pin hole release type hole.

1. What kind of screws do I need to mount the cage? I thought I had the right ones 10-32 socket head, 3/4inch, but there's too much wiggle room when I put on the warp, in fact there's a lof of wiggle. Do I just need longer screws, or should I use the 4mm?

You should be able to use stock bolts for the cage. I think it's a Unimount that you have or a Trinity of the same design. Mount the cage, then slip the asa inside the cage and tighten it down with set screws (or something like that) If that's the case then the stock/standard screws "SHOULD" work, but how does the head fit down flush? You may need to get flat head bolts for it. In "wiggle room".. what do you mean? Side to side? or top to bottom? Take everything off of the bottom of the frame, get a sharpie and the bolts. Turn the bolts all the way in until they stop (They will bottom out) Mark them or note how much room is left between the head and the frame. That distance can not be greater than the combined thickness of the parts that you are bolting to the frame. For example: Cage 1/8" + Warp Bracket 3/16" = 5/16". If you have a bolt that is 3/4" (12/16") and the hole is only 3/8" (6/16") deep and the rest of the brackets only take up 5/16" then you are ending up with 1/16" "wiggle room".

You need to either A. Put a spacer plate in there (between the warp and cage, or the warp and frame) to take up that slop, or B. Get a shorter bolt (easier/mo betta solution)

On most of the frames the bolt hole for the ASA is a "through hole" meaning the hole goes all the way through the bottom of the frame. On most Z frames they are a set depth. Because if it went all the way through, it would come out the grip. You can also stick the allen wrench into the hole and see how deep it goes and mark it on it and measure and do the math to figure it all out. Additionally, if you find that you can get the bolts in, but then the ASA won't slide into the cage, you may need to make sure it's not hitting the mounting bolt heads on the INSIDE of the cage and get some flat or button head bolts that will fit down in the cages countersunk holes properly.

2. Can use a Macro line on my RT? I just don't like the feel of the braided hose.

Yes you can use Macro line... It's been done by many, some don't like it as much at higher pressures, if it pops on you it can hurt like hell. But it's a chance I take with all of mine even the ones running 1050 PSI output. What's funny is the fittings are actually only rated to 250-280 PSI, and the line is rated for 750 PSI (Just what I learned at a local store on their fittings)


3. When I mount the ASA, put on the tank and turn it on, it leaks from the release hole. That tiny little hole. I tried turning the on/off all the way, but either on partially, or on full, it leaks from that hole. I took the ASA apart and it looks ok initially and since it's brand new, I can't think of why it wouldn't work.

It sounds like you have a bad o-ring on the pin/screw of the ASA. There may also be junk in it from shipping or a burr from being drilled that has cut or is not allowing the sealing o-ring on the on/off to seal properly. See if you can take it apart and check it, or call the place you got it from if it's new and find out about a repair kit, or a replacement. Most use a little o-ring that I've found a PITA to find replacements for.


Any tips or trouble shooting techniques would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

I'll do what I can...

[snowman]

I'll do what I can...

Thanks DevilMan. I'll be working on it tonight and will try all of that. I had a feeling that o-ring on the piston might be the problem. I gotta get a magnifying glass to take a look.

[snowman]

When I meant wiggle, it was from side to side, as if I couldn't tighten the screws any further.

[DevilMan]

When I meant wiggle, it was from side to side, as if I couldn't tighten the screws any further.

It sounds like the bolts bottomed out. You'll need to sand/file/grind down the bolts just a bit (that 1/16" I was talking about) or buy shorter ones. If you have a nut that fits the threads put the nut on the bolt and leave it on there as you file/grind down the end. Then take the nut off. That will straighten any of the threads that aren't straight and keep you from having an issue putting it back in the gun. If you have 2 use both and lock them together, hold onto the nuts with a pair of pliers and touch em to a grinder for a few seconds and it should be enough.

Take the nuts off, put the stuff back together. I'm betting that wiggle room is just what that is, because the holes in the frame of the Z are not bottomless. If you get the next shorter bolt it will be 1/2" and that to me is tooooo short. It will only have 3/16" - 1/4" of bite into the frame. With the warp and the tank and all, I'd want as much as I could get. To test it all out before grinding anything though, grab a couple of washers and put them on between the warp and the asa. I'm betting that will give you the results you are looking for.

DM

[Ando]

I have a pair of wire stripper / bolt cutters I always use when I need to trim down a screw or 2. The one linked are the cheapest I found. Mine work great and the cut is flushed. They recommend cutting brass screws only but I've done SS and never had a problem.

http://www.elightbulbs.com/catalog_p...E&prod=MP50160

Those aren't the ones I have so I can't tell you how well they work.

I have this pair.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=214&group_ID=796