I've been piecing a mag together for the wife as many of you know and have helped with. She loves it, but weve run into a small snag. The valve is a minimag valve with the foamie-less lvl 7 bolt. With the J&J ceramic barrel she likes so much on it, it gets the occasional bolt stick. Its either stick or something with the sear, sometimes you'll shoot and it'll just sit and blow air out the powertube until you smack it and wiggle the trigger. We swapped to a big dye barrel and it stopped getting stuck and leaking, but it will just randomly auto fire 5-10 shots. Is this a sear issue? Theres no visable wear on the sear or bolt and the spring is still good. Not sure what to do as I don't really have much for parts right now and we've got a scenario next weekend. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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Check your frame screws to start. Snug with a little wrench up front and finger tight in the back.
Check your barrel orings are in decent condition and the detent fits correctly.
Make sure your thumb screw has the urethane 'washer' on it. It keeps the screw from vibrating loose and causing problems during play.
Check that your rail bushing is in place.
Is this a stock twist-lock body? -
Is your bolt spring flushed with the bolt?
Do you have a gap between the sear arm and trigger when aired up?
Take a pic of the sear (where the bolt sits) and a pic of the back part of the bolt (where the sear sits) and post it.Comment
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Barrel rings and detents are good on all 4 barrels we tried, one barrel sometimes doesnt reset and leaks when it shoots and the other 3 randomly just rapid fire about 6 balls.
It is twist lock and the bushings and twist lock thingie on the rail are fine.
I dont have a normal thumb screw on the back on this mag. The valve didnt come with one and I'm using a trimmed SS button head with a rubber washer until I can buy one.
The bolt spring is fine, its well out past the end of the bolt.
The trigger\rod gap is set properly.
The sear doesnt look worn, nor does the bolt.
My camera is dead and is charging. Pics to come later when its ready. One thing I noticed is that this sear isnt shaped like the sear in my mag. Will take pictures on both asap.
Maybe the unorthodox vavle screw is part of the problem. I'll mess with it while the camera charges.Comment
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pics. I've never seen a sear shaped like this one. Its nothing like the one in my mag.
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From the "looks" of the pic, your sear might be bad. Try swapping it out with another sear and see what you get.Last edited by Ando; 05-09-2010, 07:52 PM.Comment
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If the lip on that sear is sharp (hard to tell in the pic), clean the sides off and make sure it moves well on the pin. It's dragging on the sides to rub the surface pretty good. Is the sear pin good?Comment
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Bumper?
Is that a Level X bumber? All my Level 7 bumpers have been blue. Maybe?Comment
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what type of trigger frame are you using ? and is the trigger rod the right length? I would take the level 7 bolt off and stick in the end of the barrel to see if its hitting something to cause bolt stick ( namely the wire detent ) if that is ok i would next look into seeing if your getting a barrel misalignment caused by the retaining pin being too high or the twist lock groove not being milled deep enough. (Is the J&J barrel hard to twist in or out?)Comment
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Crack is wackOriginally posted by Coralis
Don't know what to tell you bro. Maybe going to a shorter TP spacer will fix it. Ck to see if there are any hard spots on your on/off pin. That could restrict the on/off assy from moving freely. Make sure you have it in the right way too. The part of the pin with the little grove goes down and rests on the back part of the sear.
Only other thing that I've come across that would make a classic valve rapid fire is the top oring missing. You should have 2 orings inside the body.Comment
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As are TP spacers. Although the one in our guest bathroom works OK.Originally posted by AndoCrack is wack
... Maybe going to a shorter TP spacer will fix it. ...
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/hat3Originally posted by Spider-TWAs are TP spacers. Although the one in our guest bathroom works OK.
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lol you guys are too much. its a lvl7 bolt, i wasnt aware that the power tube had anyrhing that was adustatable.im gonna drop her valve into my marker tomorrow on my day off to see if theres any change.Comment
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Her valve in my gun works perfectly. My valve in her gun, however, leaks very very badly whenever you pull the trigger. Only leaks when the trigger is pulled or held. Let go and theres no leak. I'm just going to have to order a pair of o-ring kits and a sear I guess. Was hoping to get this fixed before the big game at skyline this weekend, but its not looking good.Comment
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If your valve works in your marker, and her valve works in your marker, the problem shouldn't be a seal.
If your sure about the rail bushing, you could try swapping the sears. I once got a 'mail order mag' with a home made sear pin that was pretty odd. Even when the sear sticks, the valve shouldn't leak. Sounds like something is out of alignment. Or like something is under the valve, or the rail is too thick.
Stock rail and frame on the wife's marker?Comment
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