Leak Diagnosis/Schooling a Newb

[BrettEAS]

Here's a picture of my trigger rod as it sits when the marker is gassed up. The card I'm holding will not slide between the rod and trigger. How would I go about adjusting this (if it is necessary)?

[athomas]

As long as its not touching the back of the trigger when the trigger is held against the safety, it is ok. If it is touching the back of the trigger then you need to shorten it. That is done by screwing it into the clevis that connects the rod to the sear. It will probably be loctited, so you may need to heat it to break the bond.

For your small after shot leak, that is a normal phenomenon, but yours is a bit more pronounced than most. Try replacing the urethane powertube oring and retuning the level 10.

[Tunaman]

Thats bolt stick. If you need shims and lots of oil to make it reset, then the carrier is too tight.

If it fires or vents at all, then shims won't help the problem. Oil will mask it, but it will return. A ULT leak could cause air flow into the front chamber that could be offset by shims. The shims could allow the excess air to flow out of the chamber and allow the bolt to reset if the ULT leak was small enough.

The on-off halves should tighten up when you screw them together. Make sure you aren't using level 10 shims in the ULT by mistake. The level 10 shims are twice as thick as the ULT shims, so each level 10 shim represents 2 ULT shims.

Actually, the ULT ON/Off halves should NOT tighten up. They are supposed to spin freely.

[BrettEAS]

Retuned the level ten, added a shim to the ULT when I noticed drop off.

Still leaks, but at this point I'm going to just live with it. If some leaking is normal then I suppose my particular setup is just a little louder. It chronoed and shot just fine at Castle Conquest, so I think we're at the point where it's as good as it's going to get. I can't say it's detracting from performance or using an abnormal amount of air as is. I just thought something was majorly wrong after watching Tom Kaye's vids on troubleshooting.

Out of curiousity would the stock RT on/off make any difference, do you suppose? From what I understand the trigger pull would be heavier, but I still benefit from the RT effect. Would this remove one more point of adjustment (and an area for something to go wrong)? I don't need an insanely light pull, I'd pull out an electro for that.

Thank you for your replies everyone, just trying to become an informed owner.

[athomas]

Actually, the ULT ON/Off halves should NOT tighten up. They are supposed to spin freely.

I just checked my ULT setup. It appears that 0 to 4 shims allows it to rotate, 5 or more and it tightens up.

[athomas]

Out of curiousity would the stock RT on/off make any difference, do you suppose? From what I understand the trigger pull would be heavier, but I still benefit from the RT effect. Would this remove one more point of adjustment (and an area for something to go wrong)? I don't need an insanely light pull, I'd pull out an electro for that.

Thank you for your replies everyone, just trying to become an informed owner.

The rt on-off won't stop the leak down if it is level 10 related. It will give you more reactivity but the trigger pull will be heavier (4 lbs vs 1 lb). I don't mind it at all. It is more likely to be trouble free.

[BrettEAS]

Update -

Just got the stock RT on/off in the mail. Shoots great, no leaks! Must have done something to the ULT pin somewhere along the line.