Ive only had my mag a couple months but the bolt sticks sometimes in the middle of play and the only way to reset it is to jostle it around or completely remove the tank, also im experiencing drop off when firing a string of balls, im not sure if both probs are isolated or related, but any help would be greatly appreciated
RT bolt stick issues
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I would look at your tank first. Getting shoot down during rapid fire is a good sign of a LP tank, bad recharge rate or something restricting the air flow (air starvation). Hook your tank up to a regulator and see what it's putting out.
Anything over 800 PSI will more then work. If your tank is putting out the correct psi. Next step is cking it's recharge rate. Only way to do that is have a gauge on the marker itself. If the gauge is bouncing everywhere while rapid firing then your tank is the culprit.
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had this problem on my wifes buil with a classic valve and i found the culprit to be that my sear arm was just a hair to long and on occasion it wasn't letting the on/off reset completely. Shortened it like 1/16 th of a turn and problem went away.
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thanks for the advice, I have a guage on my asa, pressure's consistent at around 900 psi and I made sure to buy an asa with a large air intake as well to not restrict the air-flow, i was thinking it might by a valve issue or a prob with the on off, gotta try calling AGD for some troubleshooting, thanks for the help
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yup, lvl10 was factory installed, tried goin to a larger power tube spacer, but she starts leaking down the barrel
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Are you using the silver spring, if not give it a try. I had problems with mine until I switched from gold to silver.
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Try using a diffrent ASA because this happend to me too with an easy fix.
Yeah and it could just be the spring too.
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thanks for the help guys, tried cleaning some lube off the bolt o ring and already usin the silver spring
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The silver spring really wasn't meant to be used as is. They're made long so people could tweak around with the lvl 10 Try going to the red, gold or cut a link or 2 off the silver one and see what you get. If you decide to cut it, the cut side should be on the bolt side not the other way around. The silver spring in most cases will cause the lvl 10 to activate prematurely for no reason. I've even seen the red spring do the same till a few links were cut.
Also....Make sure you have everything installed. Here's a very detailed picture of the valve.
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Sounds more like bolt stick due to a carrier that is too tight. Remove the shims first. They can produce a false leak when going to a larger carrier size. Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Start off with the gold or red bolt spring. It is very rare that you would be able to use the silver spring in the safe velocity range with any operational consistency.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Originally posted by AndoThe silver spring really wasn't meant to be used as is. They're made long so people could tweak around with the lvl 10 Try going to the red, gold or cut a link or 2 off the silver one and see what you get. If you decide to cut it, the cut side should be on the bolt side not the other way around. The silver spring in most cases will cause the lvl 10 to activate prematurely for no reason. I've even seen the red spring do the same till a few links were cut.
Also....Make sure you have everything installed. Here's a very detailed picture of the valve.
For some reason I thought spring strength went gold, silver, red
May have to retune my mags.
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Only other thing I can think of is make sure the frame screw is not over tightened.
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