Air issue...

[iridehyperlite07]

awesome, thanks guys. the other night the tech and i were talking about the issue and other markers and he said you could reset the bolt by putting a swab down the chamber and pushing it back. now there's the issue, i dont have any spare parts like that and i dont think a ULT comes with it so any idea what parts i would need from AGD/Tuna?

oh, also, when i take the thumb screw out to slide the valve out, it doesnt come out all the way. it'll come out a little and be able to slide back and forth but it's like it's getting caught on something.

guess i could've read the lvl10 tech tips but i see that if the carrier is smaller(larger oring? kind of goofy like the discs on a supertrapp exhaust... anyways), then they say to oil daily.... which hasnt been done lol. i guess i'm going to drop some oil down the power tube and around the bolt. see what happens. if nothing, then ordering parts. Played around with it some more, oiled up a lot, put air in and it didnt fire automatically nor would it fire with a trigger pull. it's like no air was in it. i went to take it apart and i found out that the on/off pin is sticking through the body so the xvalve wont slide right out like it should.

mmm, a 3rd edit. anyways, when you guys say replace the carrier... does the lvl10 kit actually come with multiple carriers or can i get a shim kit like actionvillage has and shim it?

You will need the LVL 10 parts kit. You can buy them from AGD or sometimes find them around here for a little cheaper. You can also sometimes find them on ebay for a complete set that is a little cheaper than the straight buy from AGD. To answer your other question, yes, the LVL 10 does come with multiple sized carriers that are sized by a series of lines and dots. One line equals two dots... The more lines and dots the bigger the carrier. Use the biggest carrier that doesn't leak, etc etc. Anyway, that is all you need for the LVL 10. It will also come with the different sized/strength springs that you might need, depending on whether you have them already... It will have a silver, gold, and red spring that are different strengths to affect how responsive the bolt is and how much tension is on it, pushing it back against the bolt bumper. I have heard different things about which to start with, but would suggest starting with the red one first to tune the bolt in.

[KillerOfGiants]

so i've been messing with carriers and whatnot. the largest one that came with my kit was a 1.5, that's too large and leaks pretty good. the next one down, my 1.0, fits and rips like it should.... does a "popopopopopopop pssssssssshhhh". i have an on/off on now so i dont have to push the bolt back, just degas & regas. i messed with the springs but the only one that will work is the shortest one, the other 2 wont work what-so-ever. tomorrow i'll mess with going to a 0.5 & 0.0 just for the heck of it.

[athomas]

so i've been messing with carriers and whatnot. the largest one that came with my kit was a 1.5, that's too large and leaks pretty good. the next one down, my 1.0, fits and rips like it should.... does a "popopopopopopop pssssssssshhhh". i have an on/off on now so i dont have to push the bolt back, just degas & regas. i messed with the springs but the only one that will work is the shortest one, the other 2 wont work what-so-ever. tomorrow i'll mess with going to a 0.5 & 0.0 just for the heck of it.

Don't go to a smaller carrier if it doesn't leak while sitting ready to fire. Use the largest one that does not leak without any level 10 shims installed. Once the proper carrier is installed, change bolt springs. The proper bolt spring will allow you to operate the gun at about 20 fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. ie; If the gun starts to cycle at 260fps and you want to operate at 280fps, then you have the proper bolt spring installed. If the gun starts to cycle at 275fps and you want to operate at 280fps, then you need to install a lighter bolt spring to allow a lower starting velocity.


Once you have the proper level 10 carrier installed, tune the ULT. Start with 2 ULT shims and and add one at a time until the gun goes full auto. Then remove the one that caused the problem and you should be good to go.

[KillerOfGiants]

hmm, ok. i just put 2 shims in it because that's what the illustration showed on the main page and i honestly didn't think it'd affect the tuning that much. i'll take those out since 1.0 works for a few shots and 1.5 leaks. i also havent messed with the ULT at all since the trigger feels great and i really cant figure out how to unscrew the 2 parts lol. but once i figure that out, i'll move on to tuning that, too. thanks... hopefully it can be tuned before tonight/weekend, i want to tear up some little kids and their Egos(pun intended).

[iridehyperlite07]

hmm, ok. i just put 2 shims in it because that's what the illustration showed on the main page and i honestly didn't think it'd affect the tuning that much. i'll take those out since 1.0 works for a few shots and 1.5 leaks. i also havent messed with the ULT at all since the trigger feels great and i really cant figure out how to unscrew the 2 parts lol. but once i figure that out, i'll move on to tuning that, too. thanks... hopefully it can be tuned before tonight/weekend, i want to tear up some little kids and their Egos(pun intended).

If you pull on the two halves of the ULT housing and unscrew it at the same time it will force the threads to catch and unscrew itself, exposing the shims. it is designed to have some free play between the two so if you don't put pressure on the two halves the threads will just sit there and spin with no result.

[Hook]

oh, also, when i take the thumb screw out to slide the valve out, it doesnt come out all the way. it'll come out a little and be able to slide back and forth but it's like it's getting caught on something.

On/off pin is sticking out. Pull the trigger, you'll be able to remove the valve after. Mine does that from time to time.

[KillerOfGiants]

thanks, no more issues with the pin.

now, FOR THE LOVE OF AGD, the bolt keeps sticking. i took out all my carriers and went through one by one, NO SHIMS, testing them. 0.0, no. 0.5 & 1.0 seemed to work the best. went up to 1.5 and i think it was worse than 0.0 when it came to how many shots it'd fire before the bolt would stick and i noticed a little leaking with it. i have no idea where to go from where. now, if the ULT would somehow be causing the bolt to stick, i'll take it out and break it down but the trigger is working fine... it's just that damned bolt. i'm using the shortest spring.

edit: nevermind, 1.5 isnt an issue. it just keeps sticking and after reading the main page along with what others have said, i'm just going to buy some more carriers from AGD since the largest the lvl10 kit comes with is a 1.5. it doesnt matter which clear-ish oring i put in any carrier does it? i wouldnt think they'd have those size specific. also, when ordering carriers from AGD, do they come with the clear little oring that goes on the valve side of the carrier?

[mag79]

pm sent

I have a large set of carriers, I think you are missing the steel washer and c clip. The streel clip protects the inside of your body, without it the bolt will chew up the inside. It will cause your bolt to stick. I've seen it on the last 2 guns I tuned for other members.

[athomas]

When you are changing carriers, always use the same white oring in each one. Its the inner diameter of the oring that you are adjusting. Once you find the largest carrier size that does not leak when sitting in the ready position, then your level 10 carrier size is correct. The ULT can cause sticking if the top of the on-off pin is too far in the top ULT oring. This can be fixed by adding additional ULT shims.