Problems w/ Tickler Lpr on Pneumag...

[Loneassassin]

So my pneumag runs pretty good, but when my tank is full or at least to 3000 psi, I air it up and it won't shoot. After monkeying with the lpr, I can get it to start shooting if I turn the tickler up all the way. I know it doesn't take that much pressure to trip the sear, but it's like the tickler is overwhelmed with too much pressure and just locks up or something. Once the tank drains down to around 1500psi, the tickler can be turned down quite a bit. I know it shouldn't matter, but maybe there's more pressure coming out of the tank when it's full?

I tried my steelie tank which outputs at around 950-1000psi, and I couldn't get it to shoot no matter what. Put my other tank back on and it shot great. My normal tank is a 68/45 with a Myth reg w/ 850psi output. Is this a common occurance w/ ticklers on pneumags?

I have an AKA SCM III lpr on my cocker, which I could trade between guns. But it pains me to do that, lol. I want one on both guns, damnit - but no money currently.

[longi]

Maybe the tickler requires a rebuild or a clean, hae you tried that? :)

[Frizzle Fry]

I tried my steelie tank which outputs at around 950-1000psi, and I couldn't get it to shoot no matter what. Put my other tank back on and it shot great. My normal tank is a 68/45 with a Myth reg w/ 850psi output. Is this a common occurance w/ ticklers on pneumags?

Try a MicroRock (max input 1500psi, <1200psi for ideal recharge rate)... They tend to take higher pressures better than Ticklers (max input 1100psi, <800psi for ideal recharge rate). The Orracle Tickler on my pneumag won't take over 800psi without hissing and pissing, but when I use the longer cap and spring from my Karni Tickler (from my Diadem) it'll shoot ropes with my 950psi output tank, no problem.

[Loneassassin]

Try a MicroRock (max input 1500psi, <1200psi for ideal recharge rate)... They tend to take higher pressures better than Ticklers (max input 1100psi, <800psi for ideal recharge rate). The Orracle Tickler on my pneumag won't take over 800psi without hissing and pissing, but when I use the longer cap and spring from my Karni Tickler (from my Diadem) it'll shoot ropes with my 950psi output tank, no problem.

Well, I've been planning on getting another AKA in the long run, though I'm sure a Micro Rock would indeed work better than a Tickler. The AKA made my cocker run very noticably better, and recharges much faster at lower pressures.

But the other thing about the AKA is that the output is near the threads, and I'm planning to mount it vertcally into my vertical adapter and then route the lp hose into the frame from there. Kind of like a "sleeper" but with a little bit of hose visible. I might try the one from my cocker and see how it looks. The Cocker will be okay with a Tickler for the time being, it just won't be happy about it, lol...

[Loneassassin]

Maybe the tickler requires a rebuild or a clean, hae you tried that? :)

It shouldn't really need a rebuild, I had it all apart and lubed it right before I put it on the pneumag, which wasn't that long ago. I've got several other ticklers and parts lying around, I could experiment with different internals if I really get desperate...

[BigEvil]

How close is the ram to the sear? You need to leave a space between them when the gun is aired up. It takes much less pressure to move that way. (It's called "pre-travel" on the ram). Theory goes, the ram is already moving at full force by time it strikes the sear leg.

Try to leave a 1/16" to 1/8" gap. Don't go too far way, or you will break the sear off. Yeah, I learned that the hard way There is that much of a difference.

If the gun is shooting a little slow, you might also want to try a shorter on/off pin. I use a .730, but have seen insne results with an emag on/off. Dirge has a pnuemag where there trigger barely moves at all.

[Spider-TW]

How close is the ram to the sear? You need to leave a space between them when the gun is aired up. It takes much less pressure to move that way. (It's called "pre-travel" on the ram). Theory goes, the ram is already moving at full force by time it strikes the sear leg.

Try to leave a 1/16" to 1/8" gap. Don't go too far way, or you will break the sear off. Yeah, I learned that the hard way There is that much of a difference.

If the gun is shooting a little slow, you might also want to try a shorter on/off pin. I use a .730, but have seen insne results with an emag on/off. Dirge has a pnuemag where there trigger barely moves at all.

I also suspect that the extra volume used in filling that gap in the MPA-3 forces the tickler to open up more. Kind of a volumizer effect. I actually built a little volumizer for it, but found a good deal on a micro rock before I could try it out.

I can get the micro rock cycling at around 40-50 psi and leave it. I always had to boost the tickler up around 80 psi to make it reliable. It would still hang on occasion after sitting a while. My gap is probably under a 1/16", but it doesn't bother the rock. You have to figure the larger bore in the rock gives it better response at low pressure.

[Loneassassin]

How close is the ram to the sear? You need to leave a space between them when the gun is aired up. It takes much less pressure to move that way. (It's called "pre-travel" on the ram). Theory goes, the ram is already moving at full force by time it strikes the sear leg.

Try to leave a 1/16" to 1/8" gap. Don't go too far way, or you will break the sear off. Yeah, I learned that the hard way There is that much of a difference.

If the gun is shooting a little slow, you might also want to try a shorter on/off pin. I use a .730, but have seen insne results with an emag on/off. Dirge has a pnuemag where there trigger barely moves at all.

The gap is 1/16" - 3/16", somewhere in there. So that shouldn't be a problem. I think it's just a matter of the tickler not being reliable with so much input pressure. I'm using a UlT with 4 shims. It doesn't take much to trip the sear...it's very easy just pulling the sear with my fingernail.

When it's all working perfectly, the trigger pull is extremely soft and short.

[BigEvil]

The gap is 1/16" - 3/16", somewhere in there. So that shouldn't be a problem. I think it's just a matter of the tickler not being reliable with so much input pressure. I'm using a UlT with 4 shims. It doesn't take much to trip the sear...it's very easy just pulling the sear with my fingernail.

When it's all working perfectly, the trigger pull is extremely soft and short.

A lot of people have had problems with pnuemags using the ULTs. I suggest trying the other LPR first. If that doesn't solve the problem, then we gotta look at other things. IIRC, the ULT is around .740". With 6 shims it acts much shorter, but it really isnt in relation to the sear and how things work, it just opens quicker. You might want to try an EMag on/off assembly in there if you have one if the other LPR doesn't work for you.