Another nOOB ?

[FeWolf]

oK i AM A nOOB, oH WELL
I would like to know the difference between
Classic Mag Valve
Smart Valve
ANS Valve
LvL 7
X
I am a cocker whore that is exploring the dark side
I picked up a TacOne with X
and a Ule with X, but I am looking at LVL 7 valve right now in a trade for my marker.

I play rec/woods/sim I am to old and short tempterd for tourney play anymore.

[BlackOps]

Classic Valve - The original valve, its made from stainless steel and is quite a bit heavier than its followers. Works like a champ, requires pretty much no tuning at all. Suffers from shoot down under high rates of fire.

Smart Valve - clever marketing by smart parts that didn't really do anything to change performance.

ANS - Not sure myself, sorry.

X-Valve - Latest and greatest version of the automag valve. Works functionally pretty much just like the classic save a few minor changes that allow it to recharge faster and have a reactive trigger. Made from aluminum so its significantly lighter, doesn't suffer from shoot down like the classic.

Level 7 and Level X refer specifically to the bolt.
The level 7 bolt is the older, unadjustable bolt. Works great, and will chop balls straight in half at every given opportunity. Not much of an issue if you are using a powered hopper.

Level X is the latest and greatest bolt, and features an anti-chop design. Through some Tome Kaye wizardry the pressure behind the bolt remains low till further in its travel and if it bumps into anything, it vents the air and resets, preventing chopped balls. Having just upgraded to Level X myself, I can tell you its amazing. After getting mine, was the first time I've played an entire weekend without breaking a single ball.

Anyway, that should cover the general questions, I'm sure some of the more technically inclined people will come behind me and fill in any details.

[FeWolf]

Thank You kind Sir

[dboggs79]

oK i AM A nOOB, oH WELL
I would like to know the difference between
Classic Mag Valve
Smart Valve
ANS Valve
LvL 7
X
I am a cocker whore that is exploring the dark side
I picked up a TacOne with X
and a Ule with X, but I am looking at LVL 7 valve right now in a trade for my marker.

I play rec/woods/sim my am to long and short tempterd for tourney play anymore.

The Classic valve was the original AGD stock valve. There were several different versions, basically just changes in the rear/regulator portion of the valve. The Smart Parts and ANS valves were just aftermarket versions of the Classic. The later classic(10 hole mod) valves were pretty much identical to those Smart Parts and others were making. Then AGD came out with the RT. Which was their first nitro/ca only valve. In order to let people enjoy the perks of the RT, without buying an entire new marker, they produced the ReTro valve. It was just a bolt in replacement for the classic valve that was suppose to perform like the RT(It didn't). Then came the Emag, which should be self explanitory. Then the x-valve. The Xvalve is basicallly everything that AGD has learned in the last twenty years wrapped into one valve. I personally have no experience with the Xvalve, mine will be here next week. But they are very well thought of. No matter which AGD valve you have, it will probably be the most reliable marker you have owned. And if tuned/modified properly will be capable of more than most people are able to keep up with.

[FeWolf]

I am trading out a 2k5 Cyborg, I just have no love for eframe markers, actually shoot my cocker faster them my Cyborg and my TacOne I can ripp it with the intelliframe.

[athomas]

I'm just going to expand on the other comments.

The classic valve is a stainless valve with integrated regulator. It can sustain 16bps when the trigger is pulled and released in a consistent manner. It came stock with a level 7 bolt. Older versions (68Automag) had back sections that had holes that did not line up with the front hole. This impeded air/CO2 flow and gave birth to several aftermarket back section mods. All newer valves (classic) since the mid 90's were corrected.

Not mentioned, but relevant is the retro valve. It originally was released as an RT valve in the AutomagRT (classic RT) marker. The RT valve was smaller in diameter than a standard AGD valve and had its air input through a banjo bolt used in place of the rear field strip screw. The air was fed through air passages in the rail. This valve was only used in the AutomagRT marker. AGD then released a retro valve which is identical to the RT inside escept it had the same dimensions as the standard automag valve and was a direct drop in replacement. The retro/RT valves charged the front chamber with unregulated pressure fed directly from the input to the valve. Feedback from the front chamber back to the regulator determined when the front chamber reached its regulated pressure value. The RT and retro valves use a stepped on-off pin to reduce the trigger pull force required to fire the gun and because the recharge is at full unregulated pressure, the trigger return force is increased. This makes the reactive trigger (not uncontrolled response trigger like tippmanns) that AGD is famous for. This regulator allowed extremely fast recharges, usually over 26bps without shootdown using standard bottle pressures. With higher input pressures, these valves have been clocked at much higher rates of fire. All the original AGD valves were stainless steel. Later versions of the retro valves were all aluminum and were branded as X-valves because they coincided with the release of the level 10 bolts.

Smart valve was a modified 68Automag valve with a modified back section and had a hollow tube inserted into the side of the front chamber to increase the volume to theoretically reduce operating pressure. Unfortunately, it only served to decrease efficiency and added a big ugly box on the side of the valve.

ANS valve was just a 68Automag valve with a modified aluminum back section.

Level 7 is the style of bolt stem. There were 3 types of level 7 bolts from AGD and one from ANS. ADG had a bolt with a foamy on the front, a bolt with steel insert without foamy on the front, and one with an extended steel insert without foamy on the front to reduce roll back. ANS had one with venturi holes drilled in the front. The ANS bolt had issues in some guns.

The level 10 bolt has a stepped bolt stem so that it starts its cycle with very low force. Once it gets past the first 1/4" of travel (where there could potentially be a blockage) then it gets full force and velocity. The amount of starting force can be tuned using different bolt springs.

The X can refer to the Level 10 as a level X, or it can refer to an X-valve.

ULE refers to the body and rail and stands for Ultra Light Enineering. The ULE bodies are the aluminum ones. The rails can be purchased as standard or ULE. The ULE rails are identical to the standard rails except they have pockets of aluminum milled out to reduce weight. These pockets reside under the body where they are not seen.

Another body and rail combination is the TAC series. These bodies are aluminum and have integrated tactical mounting Picatinny Rails.

ULT is an Ultra Light Trigger assembly. It replaces the on-off assembly of any newer retro/Xmags. It has a tiny pin on the bottom to reduce the trigger pull force to a value similar to stock electro guns while still being a manual operated gun. Using shims, these on-off assemblies can be tuned for amazing performance. They only work in mag valves that do not have the stepped on-off holes. A lot of the older retro valves and all RT valves had the stepped hole and only used one oring on the on-off top. All newer retro valves and all X-valves have the proper on-off hole. Classic automag valves also have the proper on-off hole, but don't always work well due to them using regulated air for recharge. The smaller diameter pin doesn't allow enough return force on the top of the pin to work consistently in all classic valves.


Automag (68 Automag or Classic) uses stainless classic valve and automag rail.

Automag RT uses stainless RT valve and RT rail. This gun has parts that are not compatible with any other mag.

Retro mag uses stainless retro valve or aluminum X-valve and retro/emag rail.

E-mag uses stainless retro valve or aluminum X-valve and retro/emag rail. The only difference between the emag and the retro mag is the grip frame.