lvl 10 spring adjustment

[fhawkeye]

I've decided to mess around with the silver spring on the lvl 10 since for my setup the red spring seems too only work sometimes and the gold spring chops (very rarely).

I cut the silver spring at a middle length between the 2 other springs and my question is does it matter which side of the spring goes where?

I remember being told a long time ago that you want the side of the spring that gives the least resistance to sit on the bolt's base. Is this correct or does it matter at all?

[Ando]

You want the cut side on the bolt. The uncut side resting in the breach.

[fhawkeye]

thanks ando

[Loneassassin]

While we're on the subject, I use my gold spring and it works great. But I've tried the silver spring, and though it's too long, I also noticed that it fit rather tightly around the bolt. Is that normal, or something that will go away if it gets used for awhile?

[Ando]

The silver spring usually won't work. They're mainly used for tweaking purposes for the lvl 10. The tightness is normal. I have a few that are and I've had no ill effects from it. They mainly get tight at the bottom of the bolt. You'll sometimes here it snap into place. You should be fine.

[athomas]

I've decided to mess around with the silver spring on the lvl 10 since for my setup the red spring seems too only work sometimes and the gold spring chops (very rarely).

What is the velocity setting of the mag when it starts to cycle using the red spring? Your most optimum velocity setting is about 20fps above the starting velocity for that spring. If you are approaching 20fps above the lowest velocity at which the gun cycles, and still have consistency issues with it cycling, then you probably have bolt stick issues due to a carrier that is too tight.

I cut the silver spring at a middle length between the 2 other springs and my question is does it matter which side of the spring goes where?

I remember being told a long time ago that you want the side of the spring that gives the least resistance to sit on the bolt's base. Is this correct or does it matter at all?

As Ando mentioned, put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. You do this to keep it from threading its way into the breach area.

[Loneassassin]

The silver spring usually won't work. They're mainly used for tweaking purposes for the lvl 10. The tightness is normal. I have a few that are and I've had no ill effects from it. They mainly get tight at the bottom of the bolt. You'll sometimes here it snap into place. You should be fine.

Cool, thanks. I'll probably just cut it down to medium size when my gold spring eventually wears out.

[fhawkeye]

@ Athomas

I can only get the red spring to work sometimes, the problem I have with it is I'll get first shot drop off and this is at around 270. Does this sound like a lvl 10 carrier issue?

I've been starting to have issues with my lvl 10 and my ult recently causing different varieties of random leaks sometimes when i hold the trigger and sometimes when im not. can't seem to get the 2 to agree with each other and I can't figure out why.

[Ando]

Fhawk


Clean the marker out. It's probably got some kind of dirt, teflon tape or whatever the case inside the on/off cavity. I would install a standard on/off assy inside to trouble shoot the bolt then come back to your ULT.

As for your bolt. Sounds like you might have a bad bolt spring. If the spring is flushed (or close to it) with the front of the bolt then it needs changing. I had a similar issue with someone marker not too long ago. The first pull would chuff and spit out a ball, after that it would rip just fine. If you stopped for a few sec and tried again. Same outcome.

[athomas]

I can only get the red spring to work sometimes, the problem I have with it is I'll get first shot drop off and this is at around 270. Does this sound like a lvl 10 carrier issue?

It does sound like bolt stick a bit. It is taking a bit more force to overcome the force of the spring and the friction of the oring. Once the bolt starts to move, it cycles fine until it sits for a while and sticks. How does it work at 280 fps? If it cycles fine at 280 then it is probably the bolt spring that is too stiff for your setup. If it still has issues at 280, then its the carrier that is the problem. Just remember, that you must have the largest carrier size that does not leak when at rest and ready to fire. Remove all powertube shims when tuning the level 10.

I've been starting to have issues with my lvl 10 and my ult recently causing different varieties of random leaks sometimes when i hold the trigger and sometimes when im not. can't seem to get the 2 to agree with each other and I can't figure out why.

As mentioned, remove all level 10 powertube shims when tuning your setup. If possible, install a standard retro on-off assembly for level 10 tuning. Then, once the level 10 is tuned, install and tune the ULT. If that is not possible, then use a generic ULT setting until you get the level 10 working. Use 4 ULT shims to start. That should allow you to cycle the gun and check the level 10 setup for leaks. Remember, level 10 shims are 0.01" thick and ULT shims are 0.005" thick.

[fhawkeye]

Fixed the lvl 10 problem, i put a .693 fin on my barrel which allowed me to adjust the pressure while staying under 280 and the red spring and even a full silver spring seems to work just fine.

fixed the random leaking by twisting in the sear pin (it was out too far which i guess was causing weird cycling issues causing variable leaks.

Only problem now which is one it's been having for a while is the ULT will RT with as little as 1 and even 0 shims. tank output is a 800psi. Cant ID why its acting like that. sear now has a credit card width from trigger.

[Ando]

Bad gauge maybe?

[fhawkeye]

well i tried with 3 different tanks, the gauge reads them all at 800, my ninja tank i'm going to shim down to 750 and experiment. In theory I should be able to induce shoot down which I can resolve by adding shims to the ult without it rting?

Not to say the gauge isnt faulty, its possibly under reading the 750 im looking for my very well be 850 and the other tanks may be sitting significantly over 900 when the gauge reads 800. wouldnt surprise me at all.

[athomas]

What is the condition of the sear at the tip. Is there any wear? That could contribute to the RTing. Is your rail bushing in place?

[fhawkeye]

What is the condition of the sear at the tip. Is there any wear? That could contribute to the RTing. Is your rail bushing in place?

yeah sear looks fine and bushing stays put.

i lowered the output on my tank and it seems to be working fine now (I did raise it at one point in time). I have 3 shims and no rt, i checked for shootdown if i lowered it too much and its fine.

but out of curiosity, how much wear on the sear does there need to be to cause even the slightest rt/sweet-spot?