Fixing up an old 68 Classic

[factoid]

you should be able to take that tank to your scuba shop and have them put that reg on any tank you want (EDIT: if thats a 3k reg, then they should only put it on a 3k tank). My local shop does it for like 4 bucks.. even did it for free on 2 tanks when i had them hydro the tanks.

None of the shops I talked to would even take my paintball bottle unless I had already removed the regulator and valve. They wouldn't do it for me. If they had I probably would have just gotten this tank tested instead of buying another one.

I do like this regulator and tank but compared to newer stuff with ASA threaded regs right on the bottle it's pretty old fashioned.

[athomas]

If this bottle is 12 years old, then it is near the end of its 15 year life anyway.

[SockMonkey]

None of the shops I talked to would even take my paintball bottle unless I had already removed the regulator and valve. They wouldn't do it for me. If they had I probably would have just gotten this tank tested instead of buying another one.

I do like this regulator and tank but compared to newer stuff with ASA threaded regs right on the bottle it's pretty old fashioned.

The problem is that 850psi output is the standard HP output, so 99% of the ASA screw in bottles wont give you any RT affect on the retro, R/T, or x-valves. Unless you take them apart and shim them (I don't know how, but I have heard of it being done). I currently have a 88CI/3K tank with a Air America Raptor reg (mad for 3k tanks) and a 68CI/4.5K with an Air America Raptor Rex reg (made for 4.5k tanks). I do that because one local field only fill 3k, and the other fills 4.5k (supposedly, havent been there YET).

Neither one of those are screw in ASA regs. But both have adjustable output from 0psi-1200psi (I think). I have to use a KAPP tank cradle, but I can get my x-valve to RT at 25+BPS all day long. Local field limits me to 15bps, and thats more then enough, but I can brag about its abilities And if you are only using one HPA tank on your marker, what difference does it make if you can remove it easier? maybe storage?

Also, I am sure if you pay shipping (maybe a little extra), someone here or somewhere would be willing to swap those for you. Or maybe there is someone local, from here, capable of doing so. Or maybe give a local field or pro shop a try.

Then again, this wont make a difference unless you buy yourself a x-valve or equivalent.

[factoid]

The problem is that 850psi output is the standard HP output, so 99% of the ASA screw in bottles wont give you any RT affect on the retro, R/T, or x-valves. Unless you take them apart and shim them (I don't know how, but I have heard of it being done). I currently have a 88CI/3K tank with a Air America Raptor reg (mad for 3k tanks) and a 68CI/4.5K with an Air America Raptor Rex reg (made for 4.5k tanks). I do that because one local field only fill 3k, and the other fills 4.5k (supposedly, havent been there YET).

Neither one of those are screw in ASA regs. But both have adjustable output from 0psi-1200psi (I think). I have to use a KAPP tank cradle, but I can get my x-valve to RT at 25+BPS all day long. Local field limits me to 15bps, and thats more then enough, but I can brag about its abilities And if you are only using one HPA tank on your marker, what difference does it make if you can remove it easier? maybe storage?

Also, I am sure if you pay shipping (maybe a little extra), someone here or somewhere would be willing to swap those for you. Or maybe there is someone local, from here, capable of doing so. Or maybe give a local field or pro shop a try.

Then again, this wont make a difference unless you buy yourself a x-valve or equivalent.

The x-valve is definitely coming in the future. I need to get to know the local fields a little better before its worth it though.

Speaking of the RT effect, how easy is that to control? The videos I've seen make it look like you just apply a light, constant pressure to the trigger and the valve does the rest. Can you actually control how fast it fires? I'd like to make use of it, but at least one of the local fields prohibits full auto fire, and even guns CAPABLE of full auto fire. Is the RT effect able to be "tuned" so that it goes slower? Or is that done by the skill of the shooter?

I'm definitely holding onto my old regulator. Even if the bottle is junk, I can always stick a new one on it, and this one adjusts very high so it would be good for such things. Not very flashy, but you've seen my pics...clearly I'm not obsessed with aesthetics

[SockMonkey]

The RT effect doesnt just happen at a specific pressure and speed. What happens is as you increase the input pressure, you apply a light pressure to the trigger and find the "sweet spot". At this point you no longer have to pull the trigger with each fire. You just apply a certain pressure and the trigger will 'bounce', moving and an out. The applied pressure from your finger moves the trigger in, firing the marker. Then a burst of air in the valve returns the trigger. Since you are still applying the same pressure the gun fires again.

Now with some quick fiddling, I get an RT affect starting at like 7-8bps or so. most people can cycle their marker faster then that just using semi auto (so how could you ever tell the difference?). When I use an allen wrench to adjust (increase) the input pressure, the rate of fire when 'RTing' increases. The higher the pressure the faster the RT.

The field I play at doesnt allow full auto, but an RT affect isnt considered fully automatic. BUT they still limit the rate of fire to 15bps. The chronographs at my feild will tell me the rate of fire. so I just adjust the input pressure accordingly.

**ADD**

Also, RTing is easily controlled in the sense that when I want to fire single shots, I simply pull the trigger in and it fires. The pressure to obtain RTing is usually applied near the top of the trigger. When you pull the trigger near the top of the trigger, and your finger has less leverage against the sear, making it easier for the valve to RT. When you pull the trigger normally, your finger has too much leverage against the sear, preventing RT.

[factoid]

The RT effect doesnt just happen at a specific pressure and speed. What happens is as you increase the input pressure, you apply a light pressure to the trigger and find the "sweet spot". At this point you no longer have to pull the trigger with each fire. You just apply a certain pressure and the trigger will 'bounce', moving and an out. The applied pressure from your finger moves the trigger in, firing the marker. Then a burst of air in the valve returns the trigger. Since you are still applying the same pressure the gun fires again.

Now with some quick fiddling, I get an RT affect starting at like 7-8bps or so. most people can cycle their marker faster then that just using semi auto (so how could you ever tell the difference?). When I use an allen wrench to adjust (increase) the input pressure, the rate of fire when 'RTing' increases. The higher the pressure the faster the RT.

The field I play at doesnt allow full auto, but an RT affect isnt considered fully automatic. BUT they still limit the rate of fire to 15bps. The chronographs at my feild will tell me the rate of fire. so I just adjust the input pressure accordingly.

**ADD**

Also, RTing is easily controlled in the sense that when I want to fire single shots, I simply pull the trigger in and it fires. The pressure to obtain RTing is usually applied near the top of the trigger. When you pull the trigger near the top of the trigger, and your finger has less leverage against the sear, making it easier for the valve to RT. When you pull the trigger normally, your finger has too much leverage against the sear, preventing RT.

Thanks for the tips, I'll keep that in mind when I get upgraded to that point. Probably won't be until next year. If I do any more upgrades this year I probably won't go past a level 10 bolt and an intelliframe.

Next year's upgrades will most likely be the ULE mainbody and X-Valve....unless anyone around here actually wants to play winter ball. We used to do that back in high school, but the fields around here close in october/november.