Reviving my RT

[questionful]

Okay, so a long time ago I was an idiot and decided to mess up my RT. It has been messed up now for probably about a year. I want to revive it now that I have access to a machine shop. It's going to be slow progress because I'm lazy, but I'm sure I'll be asking for help throughout the project, so I'm making this thread.

First question. Is the "Quad O-ring" used in the E-mag simply a "better" on/off O-ring? I drilled the step out of my RT valve, so it can accept any on/off. I did it with a power drill because I'm just retarded. I think I'm going to take it to the shop, drill and ream the on/off hole, then maybe put in some sort of insert to get the diameter back to tolerance. I want to have the option of switching between an RT on/off and a ULT. Maybe I could even make my own on/off!

[Ando]

Good luck

[questionful]

Thanks!

And I'm thinking of making a manifold for a pneumatic trigger. Like, take a block of aluminum, and mill an LPR, switch, and piston into it all compact like, hopefully to be put in a CF frame that I'm making wood grips for. If I actually do it it will be kick ***.

[questionful]

I want to make my own on/off. I was looking at some on/off's today. classic, RT, and ULT. And also considering how the automag valve works, I have come to these conclusions.

The wider the on/off pin head is, the better (higher flow, stronger return)
The thinner the on/off pin stem is, the better (lighter trigger pull)
Airflow looks like it could be improved a little in the on/off top

I kind of messed up the on/off hole in the valve body, so I am planning on widening it. So the on/off assembly I will be making will be wider than normal. This might help with airflow, but only minimally, so it's not that important. The important things will be the two diameters of the on/off pin. I was thinking of using the head diameter of the RT on/off and the stem diameter of the ULT. It would RT like crazy, which I think would be a nuisance unless I pneumagged it, in which case it would be awesome because then I could select between semi and full auto by changing the LPR pressure. I would love to have a mechanical marker with a short light trigger and modes.

Since I am taking my valve to a machine shop where I am free to do whatever I want basically, I was thinking of trying to improve the airflow in any and all possible ways. There is one problem with this.
By increasing the volume of the space between the regulator poppet and the on/off top, I run the risk of filling the dump chamber to a higher pressure than the regulator shut-off pressure, especially at high input pressures (my tank reg is 0-1000psi output). So I might need to do some volume measuring and some math. Two optional solutions are to a) leave the valve alone, and b) make little wires or something to take up volume in increments to be able to adjust the volume.

Also, I have tentatively decided to try to revert my sear to normal operation, and instead incorporate sear timing to the on/off assembly, as AGD did with the ULT (shims). Idk if it will be with shims, I found them kind of annoying, but it is a simple and effective system, we'll see if I can come up with anything better.

UPDATE:
The on/off hole has been reamed to .386", up from ~.375". I also added a little depth to the on/off hole. I will be making a new on/off body out of free-machining steel. I got some measurements of some different on/off parts with the micrometers at the shop i went to today. Does anyone know if having a super-wide on/off pin head would have adverse effects?

UPDATE:
A quick google turns up a bunch of useful links regarding O-ring groove design. After I buy some standard sized O-rings of various sizes, I should be able to come up with a ready-to-test O-ring situation. I still have to figure out how I'm going to come up with a new on/off pin. The AGD ones seem to be hardened steel, and my extremely limited machining experience has taught me nothing about machining tiny diameters.

http://www.rubberfabrication.com/ponn_groove.html