rt pro level 10 help

[djinvader19]

i am new to owning an automag....i built one as a project...shot fine....upgraded from a phase 2 valve to a RT Pro level 10 i bought from someone on the site. when i finally got it installed and gased it up, i could feel the tension on the trigger as i was pulling it, but the gun would not fire. does anyone know how i can get it running? im hoping to get the gun opperational so i can use it on sunday...please help

P.S: like i said i am new to the lingo of the automag world, so please break it down to easy to understand lingo so i can understand.

thanks for the help

[Ando]

Try adj your velocity up some. The thing on the back of the valve.

[going_home]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7C_1nufgDmU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

[djinvader19]

unfortunately the videos didnt diagnose the problem, and adjusting the velocity in the back did not either. the trigger feels like it wants to fire...theres tension vrom the valve, but it pulls back without fireing. then pushes foward like its supposed to.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7C_1nufgDmU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

[questionful]

try lengthening the sear rod. to do this, take the gun apart, take the sear out, and unscrew that rod a milimeter or two. good luck, it might be loctited. i think i killed the loctite on mine over a candle flame.

this is a modified sear. ignore the modification, it's the only pic of a sear rod that I have:


are you SURE turning the velocity up doesn't make it fire?

[kwood]

^^^
the beat way I found to heat up the sear rod is with a soldering iron
The candle never worked well for me and then you have a ton of carbon residue to clean off afterwards too

[athomas]

Are you using the largest carrier size that does not cause a leak out the front? Also, make sure you are using the short gold spring to start. It will allow you to fire at a lower pressure and in most conditions.

[questionful]

before messing with the sear rod, you should first push on the front of the bolt while it's aired up. if it clicks back and can then fire, then the problem is in the lvl 10. if pushing on the bolt doesn't work, i would then mess with the sear rod.

[athomas]

before messing with the sear rod, you should first push on the front of the bolt while it's aired up. if it clicks back and can then fire, then the problem is in the lvl 10. if pushing on the bolt doesn't work, i would then mess with the sear rod.

If the trigger is pushing forward, then pushing on the bolt won't make any difference.

One thing that can test if it is the trigger rod, is to manually push back on the sear with the side panels off of the trigger frame.

[djinvader19]

If the trigger is pushing forward, then pushing on the bolt won't make any difference.

One thing that can test if it is the trigger rod, is to manually push back on the sear with the side panels off of the trigger frame.

thanks for all the help...i really appreciate it....i will try taking the hand guards off of the trigger frame and manually pushing back on the sear.

now lets go out on the limb and assume that i need to extend the bar on the sear and that will fix the problem. i have a manual trigger on the gun and want to switch over to an electronic trigger frame once i fix the problem with the fireing...is the rt pro level 10 valve equipt to be able to fire properly with an electronic trigger frame (going to mod a spyder e trigger) or is there extra parts i need to put into the valve...i hear people talking about some sort of ultra lite trigger pull....im going to go out on the limb and assume that my valve does not have that...how hard is it to add that?

[Spider-TW]

thanks for all the help...i really appreciate it....i will try taking the hand guards off of the trigger frame and manually pushing back on the sear.

now lets go out on the limb and assume that i need to extend the bar on the sear and that will fix the problem. i have a manual trigger on the gun and want to switch over to an electronic trigger frame once i fix the problem with the fireing...is the rt pro level 10 valve equipt to be able to fire properly with an electronic trigger frame (going to mod a spyder e trigger) or is there extra parts i need to put into the valve...i hear people talking about some sort of ultra lite trigger pull....im going to go out on the limb and assume that my valve does not have that...how hard is it to add that?

If it's a stock AGD frame, you can (should) check that when you air the marker up and push the trigger toward the front of the marker, there should be a small gap between the trigger and the sear rod about the thickness of a credit card. If the trigger feels firm for most of the travel, this is probably good for now. That rod is threaded where it attaches to the sear (the clevis) and you usually need two pair of pliers to be able to turn the rod in or out. Try to pad the pliers (or use a smooth vise) if you can to keep from nicking up the rod which slides on the frame every shot.

I would definitely check the level 10 spring and bolt movement as athomas pointed out. That's a common problem with new setups.

I would also just search the tech section and the workshop subsection for "spyder mag". Spyder mags are not quite as "standardized" as pneumags and I haven't seen any that are exactly the same (or many at all). The sear has to be modded one way or another, iirc. They do need to use the ULT (Ultra Light Trigger kit) so that the solenoid can push the on/off.

[factoid]

thanks for all the help...i really appreciate it....i will try taking the hand guards off of the trigger frame and manually pushing back on the sear.

now lets go out on the limb and assume that i need to extend the bar on the sear and that will fix the problem. i have a manual trigger on the gun and want to switch over to an electronic trigger frame once i fix the problem with the fireing...is the rt pro level 10 valve equipt to be able to fire properly with an electronic trigger frame (going to mod a spyder e trigger) or is there extra parts i need to put into the valve...i hear people talking about some sort of ultra lite trigger pull....im going to go out on the limb and assume that my valve does not have that...how hard is it to add that?

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=358&categoryID=9

That is the part you need for an ultra-light trigger. It reduced the trigger pull from (I think) 3 pounds to about 6 ounces. Like Spider-TW said it has to be light like that otherwise a spyder soilenoid won't have enough oomph to trip it.

[djinvader19]

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...8&categoryID=9

That is the part you need for an ultra-light trigger. It reduced the trigger pull from (I think) 3 pounds to about 6 ounces. Like Spider-TW said it has to be light like that otherwise a spyder soilenoid won't have enough oomph to trip it.

i can still buy them from AGD? thought they went out of business....it says i have to "modify the retro valve to make it work.....do they have a thread on that?

[factoid]

i can still buy them from AGD? thought they went out of business....it says i have to "modify the retro valve to make it work.....do they have a thread on that?

Nope, AGD is still around, though they havne't really made anything new in quite a while. I have no idea if they're manufacturing new product regularly still or just burning through stock.

As for the modification of a Retro Valve I believe you have to get your on/off milled out to accept a ULT.

They were set up a little different than classic valves. They have a little step in the bottom where the teflon o-ring goes rather than making it sit inside a urethane o-ring like classic valves.

The ULT doesn't work if you've got that step in your on/off. Pull yours out. If you see two o-rings in there you're good to go. if not you can send it a few places to get milled out. I know Luke does it.

http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0004.htm

[skipdogg]

Not only is AGD still in business, but you can ship your gun to AGD and they will fix your problems and return a 100% working gun to you! :)