Boo-Yaah On mag

[hitech]

If you have a volt meter hook it up so you can read the voltage when you fire. A big drop means the battery isn't up to the challenge.

[Poseidon]

I just though of why you frame isn't releasing the sear. You have to make sure when there is no air on the gun that you reset the soleniod manualy.

When you have your gun aired up the on/off pin resets the soleniod. The soleniod uses electronic magentic pulses to move the sear, but if the sear doesn't reset the soleniod (via on/off pin) the piece that is pulled twards the magnestic field is already as close as it can get to the magnetic force.

Sorry if this makes no sences, it's hard to explain.

About the voltage, the solenoid it self uses very little. I had my hyperframe set at level 4 (it goes from (3-9), and It only used mabey 2 vts. It was a bit hard to read though.

[SingleShotGabe]

What is the "soleniod"????


I am having the same problem where my sear is not in FULL contact with the Boo-Yaah Frame.....

[pip_999]

paperweight

i am stilll sticking with my decision to make it a paperweight

[selfdestruct]

I cant get mine to respond. I can get the backlight to work but not the f2 button, any help?

[Zuofu]

Okay, this is pretty risky, but I did do something that made my ELCD work.

First and foremost, follow the directions on

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13589

about adjusting your solenoid (the metal cylinder) so that it is fully forward.

Now I found that my setup would not work reliably (it would fire a few shots and then jam up) even with the solenoid forward as far as the grip would allow, so I took a look at modifying my sear.

Pay attention here - you might ruin your sear

The first thing I did was mark brim of my bolt (the part
that gets caught on the sear) with dye so it would mark my sear on each cycle. This way I could identify where the bolt contacts the sear and how much slack on the sear I had to work with before the bolt would simply not catch (bad).

Then I dry fired the mag. Because my solenoid (metal cylinder that does the pushing) was not able to cycle the gun on its own, I "fired" the mag by manually pushing the sear back (by pushing back part "B", which is visible through the grip frame - might need to use a small hex wrench to get in there). I degassed and disassembled the gun and proceeded to examine the sear. The beveled edge "E" is where the sear makes contact with the bolt. This part is now dyed from contact with the bolt and I could tell exactly how much the sear has to travel to trip the bolt.

Now, carefully and conservatively, I sanded the large flat surface "C" (facing the top in the pic). I gauged how much to sand via the dye marking, careful to leave a reasonable amount of dyed metal on the sear so the bolt would still catch. Eventually after like 10 light sandings, I was able to get the gun to fire reliably.

This works because the force that solenoids are able to apply tend to decrease the further they have the move (less of the plunger is within the magnetic field), so while the solenoid might be able to move the sear reliably for the first mm or so, it might have trouble with the last millimeter. If you reduce the travel the sear needs to release the bolt, you are reducing the length the solenoid has to push and moving the whole action "closer" to the rest position of the solenoid where it is stronger.

(Picture from Dropzone paintball)

[hostage]

Had the same prob with min

I have a boo-yaah i tried messing around with the silinoid etc. After being lazy for 3 months i finally sent it in to boo-yaah, hopefully i will get it by tommarow, i will let you know if it works, though Ineed to get some air DOH!
-Hostage

[magnj]

my frame should be here tommorow. I hope it works right away. I am getting the on/off so thats good. I cant wait.

[luckymf7]

OK GUYS I HAVE THE ANSWER FOR YOU ALL. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE SEAR MAN OR THE SILENOID MOST OF THE TIME* AND THE ONLY WAY TO GET THE VALVE THAT CAME WITH THE BOO-YAAH IF IF YOU GOT THE FIRST 1-1000 PRITTY MUCH I THINK. I HAVE FOUND THE BEST COMBO TO USE. SO HERE IT IS FIRST YOU HAVE TO CALL MAKO AND ORDER A NEW ON/OFF VALVE. YES YOU MITE HAVE TO TRY ALL DAY EVERY 1MIN AFTER ANOTHER TO GET THROUGH OR FAX THEM. THE VALVE THEY GIVE YOU IS A TOTALY DIFFERENT VALVE COMPARED TO THE STOCK ONE OR ANYOTHER. ITS USES THE SAME O-RINGS ON THE BOTTEM THE RUBBER ONE AND THE WHITE LITTLE ONE THEN ON TOP OF THAT IS A BRASS PEACE ROUND WITH FOUR HOLES IN IT. ITS THE SAME ALMOST AS THE STOCK FOUR HOLE ONE BUT TALLER AND HAS A SMALLER INER HOLE. THEN GOES THE PIN. THATS THE KEY TO IT WORKING RIGHT. ITS VERY SMALL MAKING IT FOR THAT WEEK SILENOID ABLE TO PUSH THE AIR THOUGH IT. THEN THE MAIN VALVE BODY AND THE O-RINGS ON IT. WHEN ALL THE WAY DOWN IN THE GUN IT SOULD SIT ALMOST FLUSH SHOWING A LITTLE RING. MAKE SURE THERE IS OIL IN IT AND EVERYTHING SLIPS NICE. I ALSO FOUND THAT YOU CAN MIX AND MATCH PEACES TOO. FIND THAT SMALL VALVE AND PIN COMBO AND THEN USE THE STOCK BRASS ROUND VALVE PEACE WITH THE 4 HOLES IN IT. AND A REACTOR VALVE KIT. ALL YOU NEED IN THE REACTOR VALVE KIT IS THE LITTLE METAL DISK. YOU FIRST PUT IN THE TWO O-RINGS ON THE BOTTEM MAKIN SURE THEY GO INSIDE OF EACH OTHER AND PUT THE BRASS VALVE PEACE IN THEN THE METAL DISK AND THE SMALL VALVE AND PIN+O-RINGS. I USED THAT COMBO FOR A YEAR UNTILL I TOOK THE GUN APART AND I LOST MY PEACES AND HAD TO CALL MAKO. THATS THE VALVE SET UP THE SEAR SET UP MAKE SURE THE SILENOID IS HITTING THE SEAR ALL THE WAY IF NOT BUY A NEW ONE ITS A LITTLE BIGGER. AND THE BOLT IS IMPORTAIN TOO YOU CAN'T USE ANY OLD BOLT I FOUND OUT. I HAD A SUPER BOLT A ANS BOLT AND VENTRIE BOLT NONE OF THEM WORKED. I HAVE FOUND THAT THE STOCK BOLT YES STOCK WORKS THE BEST* AGD LONG NOSE THE ONE WITH OR ONE WITH OUT FOAMY I USE THE ONE WITH OUT BECUASE THE FOAMYS ALWAY FALL OFF. AND A POWER TUBE SPACER KIT. AND AS FOR THE BACK VALVE OF THE GUN THE FACTORY ONE DOES NOT WORK THAT GOOD I TRYED THE FACTORY ONE AND 8 HOLE MOD THEY DID NOT WORK. I USE THE ANS PHASE ll VALVE. OK THATS ABOUT ITS MAN I HOPE THAT HELPS YOU ALL. AND HERES A PIC OF MY MAG TO SHOW YOU ALL THE MAGS ARE THE BEST LAST YEARS PIC. ALSO I SOON TO TRY OUT THE LEVEL 10 IN IT TO SEE IF THAT WORKS.

[luckymf7]

ALSO I RECOMEND NOT TO USE CO2 AT ALL BECUASE THAT GRIP IS HELLA FAST AND WILL FREEZE UP. AND YES I CAN SHOOT FULL AUTO 15BPS WITH N2 NO CHOP THANKS ALL!!!!!! AND ONE MORE THING NEVER PUT LONG SCREWS IN THE GRIP FRAME YOU WILL CRACK YOUR BOARD. + IF ANYONE WANTS THE ORIGANAL INSTRUCKIONS MANUAL OR WHAT EVERY I HAVE THEM. IF YOU WANT I CAN MAIL IT TO YA SEND ADDRESS. + USE THE FACTORY BATTERY OR A 9.6VOLT.

[Nobody077]

TURN OFF THE CAPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok just had to do it

[hostage]

guys read the date of the post, this is very old.
-Doron

[Nobody077]

LOL I just looked at the date gaps between post's

[luckymf7]

ya well everyone needed to know that info so i posted it
and ya i always do cap o well