On/Off Leak After Replacement

[BrettEAS]

Hi all,

The issue I'm faced with is an on/off leak in my mechanical ULE with X-Valve.

To begin, I acquired an E-mag off of ebay that the owner stated he had trouble with tuning the Level Ten. No big deal, I had an identical X-valve setup already from my mech mag, put in the emag on/off and pin, and now it shoots great.

With the X-valve that had originally come with it, I placed it into the ULE mag I had left over, using the same stock RT on/off, and I got the Level Ten shooting fine.

The problem is not with the Level Ten, but with a leak in the on/off area. When holding down the trigger I experience a weak but steady leak, no "lawn sprinkler" effect at all. I began with putting a little more oil in, which didn't do anything once it had settled. Next, I replaced both orings in the bottom, as well as the small inner ring that is within the brass assembly, as well as the outer one.

Next, I took my original X-valve out of the Emag, put the RT on/off back in, and there were no leaks. I put the Emag on/off into the leaky valve, and the same leak remained.

To sum up, the leaky X-valve leaks from the on/off area with both a stock RT and E-mag on/off assembly (using the specific pin lengths and quad/urethane orings to each on/off). My other X-valve does not. I don't see any particular damage/debris/scrapes on the leaky one, so I've run out of ideas as to why this one continues to leak. Thoughts?

[Tunaman]

look for a scratch inside the on/off hole...

[Ando]

You (or someone) might have scratched the inside grabbing at the orings with a pick or something. If you can find it. It might be possible to refinish it with some 1200 sand paper but then again you might just destroy if you don't know what your doing.

If it's only leaking when the trigger is pulled i would just leave it alone to be honest. The triggers only pulled for a fraction of a second anyways.

[BrettEAS]

Thanks guys, I wasn't sure if it was some wacky tolerance issue or what.

What would you recommend for grabbing at those o-rings so I don't do it to my working valve? I've used dental picks primarily, but I'm paranoid about damaging it like the other one. Are there plastic-type picks that would work?

[Ando]

Toothpicks.

[athomas]

Dental picks are great for removing small parts and orings. It is difficult to damage the metal, but brass or aluminum can be scratched if pressed hard enough. Since the problem existed prior to your owning the valve, I suspect the original owner removed the assembly using some other method and could have damaged a sealing surface. Check the sealing surfaces of the on-off assembly.

[Newt]

If you have scratched the on/off hole, you may be able to fix the problem by shimming the orings. Remove orings from the on/off. Cut a thin strip of aluminum foil just thicker than the oring gland and long enough to wrap around it. Put this in place under the oring. This will apply more pressure to the walls and may cause it to seal.

[athomas]

So, the leak is coming out into the grip frame using the newly acquired X-valve? Changing on-off assemblies doesn't help. This indicates a piece of dirt or scratch in the on-off area.

Your indication of holding the trigger down and it leaking makes me think that the leak is coming out the front when you are holding the trigger. If this is the case, then your leak could be coming from one of the orings in the back of the valve. Do you get a hot shot if you leave the gun sitting for a while?

[BrettEAS]

So, the leak is coming out into the grip frame using the newly acquired X-valve?

Not the grip frame, but out of the bolt and only after the marker has fired and the trigger is held down.

When I gas it up, holding the trigger, everything clicks in and there is no evidence of a leak. Only when I take a shot and hold it again does the leak appear, and goes away when the trigger is released.

A bad oring from the back of the valve? Possible, though I've not experienced any hot shots from it, even at the very first shot at the chrono. No particular velocity inconsistency or leaks out the rear of the valve either. Would there be a particular oring to replace and see if that does anything?

[athomas]

Try taking the valve apart and cleaning it. You can inspect the orings when you do. Don't forget about the regulator pin assembly. The two orings on the end (separated by the plastic split washer) need to be inspected and the recess hole cleaned out too.

[BrettEAS]

After taking it apart the orings appear new, and there was no buildup or sludge in there. I hit the on/off area with a flashlight and could not see anything in particular, though that doesn't mean there isn't some kind of damage in there. The leaked air comes through the bolt and can be felt, but only after the marker is fired and the trigger held, not before, or after the trigger is released.

I think it just may be damaged in an area I cannot see based on what I've noticed when it was apart.

[Ando]

2 options. Leave it alone like I said or sent it to Tuna if your that concern about it. It's not/shouldn't hurt anything.

[BrettEAS]

Current Issue:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7pwxmoZ4QM

So....what's the best contact info for Tuna?

[Coralis]

that's called the lawn sprinkler effect and is usually caused by the smaller of the two on/off orings needing replacement.

[BrettEAS]

that's called the lawn sprinkler effect and is usually caused by the smaller of the two on/off orings needing replacement.

It's on it's way to Tuna tomorrow. I'd actually replaced both on/off orings after it occured, to no avail. Better to go with the pros this time I think.