KC battery pack

[kcombs9]

I got a new KC battery pack early this year but I didn't get around to using it untill this last month,

about 3 weeks go I top it off with a charge over night using a PoweriZer universal smart charger.

I cleaned my gun that night and just got it out again to day to get it ready for this weekends play.

My gun wont power up, take the battery off and test it it has 1.1V, it was 18v when I put it in my gear back after cleaning it 3 weeks ago, the battery plug was in place but some how it either had a draw on it or my battery is not holding charge.

Is there any way to test weather it is holding charge or not? can it be repaired or am I sol and gotta replace the whole pack?

[factoid]

I got a new KC battery pack early this year but I didn't get around to using it untill this last month,

about 3 weeks go I top it off with a charge over night using a PoweriZer universal smart charger.

I cleaned my gun that night and just got it out again to day to get it ready for this weekends play.

My gun wont power up, take the battery off and test it it has 1.1V, it was 18v when I put it in my gear back after cleaning it 3 weeks ago, the battery plug was in place but some how it either had a draw on it or my battery is not holding charge.

Is there any way to test weather it is holding charge or not? can it be repaired or am I sol and gotta replace the whole pack?

Do you always charge it with this charger? How did you test it, with a multimeter or does the charger have a readout on it or something?

How old is the battery? Before this incident was it losing charge more rapidly than you felt it shoud? That's a pretty big drop in just a short period if it wasn't already having charge-holding issues. That's more like it was left in the gun turned on, or something was bridging contact causing intermittent energy loss.

But rechagable batteries are notorious for not holding their charge very long, even if when you charge them up they'll still juice up to the maximum. It could be normal

[kcombs9]

I used this same charger on a stock Emag battery pack with no issue. the Battery was Brand new from KC this year (march ish) I have a Multimeter from radio shack I tested it with.

When I got the battery from KC it had a charge of around 19v if memory servers me right, and I let it sit for months and still had 17-18v.

My guess is there is a bridge in my circit causing a draw when I stored the gun. Right now my charger dose not seem to be working, I have a AGD car charger I'm going to try and see if I can get it charged back up then let it sit out of the marker and see how long it takes.

Worst case I have to store the battery pack off the marker when I'm done using it.

[factoid]

I used this same charger on a stock Emag battery pack with no issue. the Battery was Brand new from KC this year (march ish) I have a Multimeter from radio shack I tested it with.

When I got the battery from KC it had a charge of around 19v if memory servers me right, and I let it sit for months and still had 17-18v.

My guess is there is a bridge in my circit causing a draw when I stored the gun. Right now my charger dose not seem to be working, I have a AGD car charger I'm going to try and see if I can get it charged back up then let it sit out of the marker and see how long it takes.

Worst case I have to store the battery pack off the marker when I'm done using it.

I don't know if a grounding problem can cause a battery drain, but you can't hurt anything by cleaning out your grounding screw. When you've got aluminum and steel in contact over time a layer builds up between them that will prevent contact, sort of like the green patina on copper only easier to remove.

You just run a tap through the threads to scrape the layer off and either replace the screw or scrape it out with a pick or something.

[kcombs9]

I don't know if a grounding problem can cause a battery drain, but you can't hurt anything by cleaning out your grounding screw. When you've got aluminum and steel in contact over time a layer builds up between them that will prevent contact, sort of like the green patina on copper only easier to remove.

You just run a tap through the threads to scrape the layer off and either replace the screw or scrape it out with a pick or something.

The lowers I have just came back from Mongoose with new anno not long ago and has a good ground connection.

I charged the battery up with the car charger tell the light turned green, tested at 20v. It seems my batter saver plug is not cutting off the power and I have my halo V35 wired into my emag so that would drain aa's if I left them In so I'm guessing it drained the emag battery pack, I'll let the pack sit off the marker for couple days before I play this weekend checking the Voltage each day and see if it starts to drop at a large rate.

[athomas]

Keep an eye on it. Its not good when the packs go that low. Its lucky that you caught it in a short time. If it had been left at that low state for a long time, it could have ruined the pack.

[kcombs9]

in 15 hours it went from 19.99v to 19.38v.

I know rechargeable are notorious for losing charge over time is this within tolerance?

[Newt]

Might be a good idea to throw a battery cut-off switch in the halo as well.

[athomas]

in 15 hours it went from 19.99v to 19.38v.

I know rechargeable are notorious for losing charge over time is this within tolerance?

If the 20v was measured when it was taken off the charger, then yes it will go down. Batteries measured after just completing a charge will test at a higher value than they really have. The voltage will settle to a normal value. This normal value should stay steady for quite a while. Depending on the type and generation of the battery technology, the rates of discharge vary. Newer NiMH batteries hold a charge longer than some of the older generation batteries. Newer cells should last for a few months on a full charge without having to top up.