Capping and Devolumizing Classic Valve?

[OPBN]

I have seen where a member here had a cap made for their X Valve and used an external requlator in the foregrip. Is this possible with a Classic Valve? Could you do this in conjuction with the devolumizing the Smoothice has done?

[factoid]

I have seen where a member here had a cap made for their X Valve and used an external requlator in the foregrip. Is this possible with a Classic Valve? Could you do this in conjuction with the devolumizing the Smoothice has done?

I wasn't aware it was even possible with an x-valve, I'd only heard of this being done on a classic valve. It works basically the same way.

The thing to be wary of is that the regulator has the locking pin that keeps the valve from smoothing off the rail. You'll need to either mill some kind of new z-lock into the rail and put a pin in the valve or reg cap, or else come up with an alternative method for keeping the valve in place.

Positioning is key...the tolerances for where the valve must sit are fairly tight.

[TwilightG]

I think it's DeuxMachina on MCarterBrown. He has a few for classic valves now (last I checked). The xvalve cap he made was a one-off and had to be built to the specific valve.

[SockMonkey]

It is actually quite hard to get it to work on an x-valve, its much more complicated..

With a classic valve its basically a bolt on mod. You just have to choose which style you want to buy. (the guy who sells these has many different looks) hes on MCB I believe.

[Smoothice]

It should work. Actually may work even better with co2 then the back half of the valve.

[OPBN]

I wasn't aware it was even possible with an x-valve, I'd only heard of this being done on a classic valve. It works basically the same way.

The thing to be wary of is that the regulator has the locking pin that keeps the valve from smoothing off the rail. You'll need to either mill some kind of new z-lock into the rail and put a pin in the valve or reg cap, or else come up with an alternative method for keeping the valve in place.

Positioning is key...the tolerances for where the valve must sit are fairly tight.

Actually, the field strip screw holds the valve in place. The Z pin just keeps the regulator from unscrewing.

Can someone confirm if it is Deuxmachina? I haven't looked on MCB yet.

Smooth, I am not getting the pic? What is it showing?

[Smoothice]

.

Smooth, I am not getting the pic? What is it showing?

so people can see what part of the valve is affected by the devolumizing.

[OPBN]

Apparently, it Deus Machina on MCB. I've contacted him, thanks.

[Frizzle Fry]

I wasn't aware it was even possible with an x-valve, I'd only heard of this being done on a classic valve. It works basically the same way.

The thing to be wary of is that the regulator has the locking pin that keeps the valve from smoothing off the rail. You'll need to either mill some kind of new z-lock into the rail and put a pin in the valve or reg cap, or else come up with an alternative method for keeping the valve in place.

Positioning is key...the tolerances for where the valve must sit are fairly tight.

The Z-lock is an additional safety feature but it's not by any means necessary. Plenty of people go without it, plenty of aftermarket valve backs don't have it, and I'm about 99% sure that Tom only included it to avoid lawsuits when some moron pulled his field strip screw with his marker still gassed up and shot a valve into his chest or something. Granted it's helpful when installing your valve so you don't have to feel around with the tip of the field strip screw to get the threads to catch.

As for being more difficult to cap an X-valve than a classic, well, that's just not true. I'm not sure how or why you would think that, but it's pretty much the same process. The only suggestion I have is that you used SS for a classic valve cap and aluminum for the X-valve. The only reason I suggest this is that aluminum and stainless steel expand at different rates, 0.0000231 and 0.0000173 per C* respectively.... Not a huge deal, but a bit beyond negligible. It'll also give you a decent balance and the ability to easily match the finish of the valve.

As for "tolerances" all you need is the appropriate die (I'll pull mine out and get you a number), a valve back for reference, a micrometer, and a stock o-ring. If it's no 100% perfect spacing, you contact O-ring Monkey and he'll get you something a tiny bit thicker or thinner depending on what you need... He can even get you different materials. It's not really that hard if you have a basic machine skills.

[SockMonkey]

There was a guy who did it with an x-valve and I remember reading there was more to it then the classic valve, like he had to have a special part made or something.

I'm at work now but, I will try to find it, its on MCB were I read it IIRC.

[Frizzle Fry]

There was a guy who did it with an x-valve and I remember reading there was more to it then the classic valve, like he had to have a special part made or something.

I'm at work now but, I will try to find it, its on MCB were I read it IIRC.

I capped one and had no problem... I can't imagine what he'd need to have made.

[OPBN]

The Z-lock is an additional safety feature but it's not by any means necessary. Plenty of people go without it, plenty of aftermarket valve backs don't have it, and I'm about 99% sure that Tom only included it to avoid lawsuits when some moron pulled his field strip screw with his marker still gassed up and shot a valve into his chest or something. Granted it's helpful when installing your valve so you don't have to feel around with the tip of the field strip screw to get the threads to catch.

As for being more difficult to cap an X-valve than a classic, well, that's just not true. I'm not sure how or why you would think that, but it's pretty much the same process. The only suggestion I have is that you used SS for a classic valve cap and aluminum for the X-valve. The only reason I suggest this is that aluminum and stainless steel expand at different rates, 0.0000231 and 0.0000173 per C* respectively.... Not a huge deal, but a bit beyond negligible. It'll also give you a decent balance and the ability to easily match the finish of the valve.

As for "tolerances" all you need is the appropriate die (I'll pull mine out and get you a number), a valve back for reference, a micrometer, and a stock o-ring. If it's no 100% perfect spacing, you contact O-ring Monkey and he'll get you something a tiny bit thicker or thinner depending on what you need... He can even get you different materials. It's not really that hard if you have a basic machine skills.

If you have the ability to make one for a Classic LMK. I have contacted Deus Machina and he has yet to reply. Looks like a couple of people on MCB have contacted him, but not sure if he has replied to them yet either.

[OPBN]

Also, besides a Palmer Stab, does anyone offer a reg that is a screw in type that will handle CO2? I like the Palmers, but it's a little longer than I was hoping for, and from what I can tell, the CCM one is LP.

[Frizzle Fry]

I did two earlier this year, I'd have to hunt down the die and a couple pieces of 304 stock I found in the right length. No promises.

from what I can tell, the CCM one is LP.

The automag operates at fairly low pressure.

[OPBN]

I did two earlier this year, I'd have to hunt down the die and a couple pieces of 304 stock I found in the right length. No promises.



The automag operates at fairly low pressure.

Hex end as in a slot for an allen wrench? The ones I saw offered had either a slot or torgue hole in them. I would be more apt to want a torgue hole. Depending on the thickness, could you also tap for a gauge ini the end? Still debating this, but LMK if you can offer as an option.

According to what I found the in line reg they offer is only 0-450. None of my mags operate at less than 600+

Also, my uncle in law operates a metal fabricating place here in town. I don't think he does this type of machining, but he may have metal scraps laying around. If you can't find what you need, give me an exact description and I may be able to get it from him.