E-Mag Level Ten Chuffing

[BrettEAS]

After setting the trigger how I liked it, I've noticed that when trying to shoot a string that the Level ten system will periodically chuff. This has not been the case in mechanical mode, and the xvalve came from a mechanical mag that had no issues of this sort.

It's running AGD software v 3.2, with a crossfire 800-850 psi output tank. Stainless braided hosing attached to a CP on/off ASA. Battery was fully charged, took it off the charger this morning.

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/O7OAtVUgiRI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/O7OAtVUgiRI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US&amp;rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

[Ando]

You might have a weak solenoid or your plunger isn't set right.

One way to test your solenoid is to pull your valve out, apply a good amount of pressure with one of your finger to the back circular opening on the body where the back of the sear protrudes and hits the on/off. Pull the trigger, if it stings the hell out of your finger then your solenoid is G2G. Fire it a few more times in a rapid succession. If it leaves a bloody stump then it's alright and your plunger might have just gotten out of adj. (kidding on the bloody stump )

You'll need calipers to do this adj. Lengthen your solenoid plunger in .005 increments until it starts firing properly. Don't go pass 3.025.

EDIT:

If your not sure on how to pull the guts out of the frame post up. I or someone here will run you through it.

[Ando]

Baa...after re-reading your post on MCB it got me thinking. Your on/off pin is probably what's giving you issues if it came off a mech marker. The pin should be at .712. Most mech markers on/off pin are set to .750.

[reckid1986]

i have a friends pneumag that is doing pretty much the same thing, it has a ULT in it right now and I think that is the culprit in my case, but like ando said check the length of your on/off pin. if its the .750 one lmk, maybe we can work something out im in need of a .750 pin right now and have a .712 in my pneumag.

[BrettEAS]

Thanks Ando,

The on/off pin measures the correct length. The solenoid may be the weak link, it sure didn't sting much when pulling with one finger, less so when walking it.

I sense I may have another mag on the way to Tuna...

[Ando]

Try messing with it yourself before sending it to Tuna. You can't screw it up anymore

Best way to get to know your mag.

Get yourself some calipers and start tinkering. You might surprise yourself.

[BrettEAS]

Ha, in most cases I would agree, and I've done it with many of the markers I've owned over the years, except Angels.

Based on my experiences with my mechanical mag I posted about a few weeks back, I think I have some kind of 'mag curse. I at least try to read up on the subjects, but I swear mags hate me sometimes. Except my classic I owned 10 years ago. Man I abused that thing.

At this point my field is shut down for the winter, so the next time I'll get back out there would be Castle Conquest in the spring. So I can afford to wait and get it done the right way. I use my pump for indoor winter play because it drives kids crazy.

[athomas]

When is the last time you replaced the bolt spring?

[BrettEAS]

Original bolt spring and Xvalve from a ULE mag I bought straight from AGD last fall. It's probably seen somewhere in the area of 3 cases. It's the gold spring, and it's not very worn.

[athomas]

The bolt spring should be ok then.

When testing the force of the solenoid, you need to manually reset it every time or it won't have any effect. That is what your finger does. You hold down on the top of the sear (the back part) that sticks out of the on-off hole. Your finger manually resets the sear and solenoid. When you pull the trigger in electronic mode, The solenoid will kick against your finger as if it is the on-off pin. It will give you an idea of the force it is providing.

The plunger length is important. If it is too long, the on-off pin won't open properly and the valve will starve and chuff. If it is too short, the solenoid won't have the power to activate it properly and it may miss shots.

The problem could be the level 10 carrier setup, but its doubtful. If it is borderline working, the slower pull and release of your finger may allow it to cycle within its timing range. With the electronics, the sear may try to engage too soon and slow down the return action. Normally, this isn't a problem, but if it is just at the point of working, the extra friction could cause a slow down that could affect charge rate. But, as mentioned, I doubt it is this.

Have you checked the detents?

[BrettEAS]

Right, I tested the strength of the solenoid by the method you mentioned and it wasn't terribly forceful on a full battery. Detents I haven't checked, but it's in the mail to Tunaman as we speak. Xmod and a tuneup will hopefully get things where they need to be.