Mysterious Chuffing

[chinstrap]

I decided to throw the Emag on full auto for grins and any fire rate above 10 BPS results in a chuff fest.

The loader is a Rotor.
The tank is a Ninja outputting at about 900 PSI.
The battery is fresh from Tuna.
The paint is RPS Polar Ice.

What could be causing this?

[BigEvil]

What software is on the gun?

[chinstrap]

What software is on the gun?

Xmod 1.8

[BigEvil]

Does it do it without paint?

[Ando]

Try pulling or RT it over 10 bps in mech (no hybrid). If it shoots without a hitch then that'll rule out the valve as a probable cause and could be something with either your settings or maybe your plunger out of adj.

Try it with and without ammo as BE specified.

[athomas]

What are your Xmod settings?
Is your bolt spring in good shape?
Is your level 10 fully tuned?
Is your plunger the proper length?

[chinstrap]

Forgot to include the Xmod settings:

Fix 0
Dwell 13
No ACE

Shoots like a champ in mech mode.

Dry fires fine (goodbye foamie #2 ).

Regarding whether everything is in tune: it just came back from Tuna, so I'm assuming it is.


Maybe the paint was warped?

[athomas]

If Tuna tuned it, then it should be good to go. Check the paint. Check the batteries and settings in the rotor.

[BigEvil]

try upping the FIX to 15 or so... you could be getting some electronic bounce.

[chinstrap]

Check the batteries in the rotor.

This won. Unless the battery connectors not making good contacts could have caused it, because I had to bend those up.

Apparently the battery pack was wobbling back and forth and the electronics would intermittently shut off.

[athomas]

A high resistance connection due to a bad/loose connector could be the same as dead batteries. Even new batteries can be bad right out of the package. I've had that happen before.

[chinstrap]

A high resistance connection due to a bad/loose connector could be the same as dead batteries. Even new batteries can be bad right out of the package. I've had that happen before.

Forgot to specify: The battery prongs on the Emag battery were compressed. I had to bend them up a bit.

Either way though, I managed to crank it up to 20 BPS full-auto without any problems. Then it started chuffing at 21 BPS.

I have a feeling that if I want to max out the ROF, I'm going to have to crank the input pressure up past 900 PSI, but then I'd risk blowing my macroline.

Do I start putting extra shims in my Ninja?

Or would I just want to increase the tension in my Rotor?

Not that I would really use 21+ BPS for anything other than a pregame demonstration in the chrono area to discourage cheating...not that there's been a problem with that among the people I play with...

Maybe I just shouldn't...

Decisions, decisions...

[Spider-TW]

Mags seem to hit a natural frequency around 20 bps (+/-). You might try tuning your level 10 with a tighter spring if you just want one more bps. I use gold springs (getting old) and mine likes to hang around 19, even between 900 and 975 psi. Good macro is rated for 1000 psi working, but you would want to know about yours before you put the extra pressure on it.

[athomas]

The solenoid limits the upper limit of the emag. The mass of the plunger and sear assembly prevents the bps from getting much above 20bps reliably. You can squeeze a few more bps out of it with a short gold bolt spring and a higher input pressure to help reduce the cycle time, but its upper limit is still not going to reach that of a reactive retro/Xvalve.

[chinstrap]

Ah, so not really worth messing with then, particularly since I'd never actually use it in a game.

I might toss a couple of shims in my Ninja for grins anyway, but I won't expect a higher ROF out of it.

My macroline is rated to 1,000 PSI from the Air Soldier Products website (I think it's called Parker Macroline); I specifically bought a huge roll of the stuff for that reason so no worries there.