Another MSV-2 problem along with others

[knownothingmags]

hello,
i have a problem with one of my msv-2 lever valve switch.
it seems to be bleading air all the time, as if it is over preasured/but i know its not.
what could cause this?

second i have an M90 frame trying to mount my tickler lpr for a sleeper setup, but it wont screw in far enough or seal enough to not leak at the point of where the lpr is threading in.
pretty much i think if i can get it to do one more full turn tight it wont leak any more but im weak in my fingers and dont know how to get a wrench in there to tighten more.
any ideas.
*i have wrapped it with water/sealant tape.

thankyou,
knownothingmags.

[TwilightG]

is the msv mounted in your M90 frame? the lever needs to be trimmed slightly to fit, otherwise the lever will still have some pressure applied to it causing the valve to stay open.
If you bought your pneu-kit from Cyberave/Mongoose, I think they come pre-trimmed but I'm not sure.

... can't remember exact lever length off the top of my head. I'd have to look it up. I know that BigEvil put a How-To together a while ago.

If it leaks without being mounted in the frame, you *could* try backing out the rear screw slightly. In general, you should never need to adjust this.

If the msv lever has already been trimmed, it still may have just enough pressure on it to open the valve. loosen (or remove) the bottom mounting screw from the msv and pivot it away from the front of the frame until the leak stops. Tighten the mounting screws in that position.


as for the LPR, I just used a small wrench. Don't go crazy with it though.. you don't want to strip anything.
I also added a drop of oil on the o-ring which is compressed between the asa and the lpr. You do have an o-ring in there, right?

Hopefully some of this helps

[knownothingmags]

is the msv mounted in your M90 frame? the lever needs to be trimmed slightly to fit, otherwise the lever will still have some pressure applied to it causing the valve to stay open.
If you bought your pneu-kit from Cyberave/Mongoose, I think they come pre-trimmed but I'm not sure.

... can't remember exact lever length off the top of my head. I'd have to look it up. I know that BigEvil put a How-To together a while ago.

If it leaks without being mounted in the frame, you *could* try backing out the rear screw slightly. In general, you should never need to adjust this.

If the msv lever has already been trimmed, it still may have just enough pressure on it to open the valve. loosen (or remove) the bottom mounting screw from the msv and pivot it away from the front of the frame until the leak stops. Tighten the mounting screws in that position.


as for the LPR, I just used a small wrench. Don't go crazy with it though.. you don't want to strip anything.
I also added a drop of oil on the o-ring which is compressed between the asa and the lpr. You do have an o-ring in there, right?

Hopefully some of this helps

just ran out of air.
i will try the remount, and then the trim of the lever are or vise versa.

and how did you get a small wrench on that big azz nut on the bottom of the tickler lpr?

i will post more results when i get more air.

thankyou,
knownothingmags.

[TwilightG]

I found a How-To on BEO but I think there might be one floating around here too: http://bigevilonline.com/showthread.php?t=3611

as for threading the lpr, I don't remember.
However, I did use blue loctite instead of teflon tape. I think the tape can sometimes bunch up making it more difficult to turn.

if you prefer to use the tape, just one layer with just enough overlap is good

[Loguzzzzzz]

Which LPR are you using?

The way the frame is designed you want the face of the LPR threads to be flush with the bottom of the frame. This should be able to be done with just your fingers.

If the LPR is a WGP Bullet or an Oraccle Tickler you can take the LPR apart and thread the base of the LPR in using a 9/16" box wrench. Then reassemble the LPR in the frame. This is harder to accomplish with a MicroRock. but I have done it.

As far as the MSV-2 venting, it is possible that the trigger rod is too long slightly activating the MSV-2. They vent when activated. I don't recall you saying whether is was leaking in the frame fully assembled or just venting while sitting outside the frame.

I would not suggest using Loctite on the threads of the LPR. It is really not necessary since the face of the LPR threaded base is sealing against the o-ring which is sandwiched between the asa and the LPR

[knownothingmags]

Which LPR are you using?

The way the frame is designed you want the face of the LPR threads to be flush with the bottom of the frame. This should be able to be done with just your fingers.

If the LPR is a WGP Bullet or an Oraccle Tickler you can take the LPR apart and thread the base of the LPR in using a 9/16" box wrench. Then reassemble the LPR in the frame. This is harder to accomplish with a MicroRock. but I have done it.

As far as the MSV-2 venting, it is possible that the trigger rod is too long slightly activating the MSV-2. They vent when activated. I don't recall you saying whether is was leaking in the frame fully assembled or just venting while sitting outside the frame.

I would not suggest using Loctite on the threads of the LPR. It is really not necessary since the face of the LPR threaded base is sealing against the o-ring which is sandwiched between the asa and the LPR

awsome thankyou loguzzzzzz needed to hear what you said very apreciative of your advise.

and thankyou to everyone else.

i will update if needed.

[knownothingmags]

how do you take the tickler lpr apart so i can access the hex nut on the bottom of the lpr.

insight or diagrams please

thankyou,
knownothingmags.

[knownothingmags]

beested and now it works.